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post #6991 of 14272
Just for reference, this is what I found under the Corsairs AX1200 sleeving. Ferrite core and tiewraps. Haven't seen it posted here so I thought I would just post it.

397

397

I've heard of caps being in the line and I thought thats what I had to deal with when I looked at my Corsair supply.
Edited by heatsink - 4/26/12 at 2:12am
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post #6992 of 14272
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by heatsink View Post

Just for reference, this is what I found under the Corsairs AX1200 sleeving. Ferite core and tiewraps. Haven't seen it posted here so I thought I would just post it.
397
397
I've heard of caps being inline and I thought thats what I had to deal with when I looked at my Corsair supply.

Everywhere I looked said you could remove the ferrite caps. Tested the cables via a volt/multi meter and everything seems to be working, thanks again wlw wl. Currently just using it as the psu for my linux box.
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post #6993 of 14272
I think the ferrite cores are just used to suppress any type of interferance / static. (( such as when you put power cables over speaker wire ))

So, its safe to remove them if you want.
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post #6994 of 14272
Quote:
Originally Posted by phillyd View Post

ive just been messing around with it, but now when i go to melt the sleeve, it crumples up. the heatshrink looks terrible.

I would normally not extend such a comment, but after seeing your frustration I need to point out that if you are using FTW heatshrink (which from your log it says so I believe) that their heatshrink has a low melting point and turns almost into a gummy sticky material if you apply too much heat. Thus you will have to adjust your heatshrinking methods accordingly. My videos are made using high quality MDPC heatshrink which has a high melting point and does not turn gummy even after prolonged amounts of heat.

I would suggest possibly pre-melting the tip of the sleeve just a bit to form it down with your fingers so that you do not rely on the ftw heatshrink to melt down the sleeve, as the heatshrink will malform and give you the issues you are having.

400

And about ferrite beads, totally safe to remove them.
post #6995 of 14272
thanks lutro0!
whats ur heat gun rated for? mines 750F/1000F
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post #6996 of 14272
Quote:
Originally Posted by phillyd View Post

thanks lutro0!
whats ur heat gun rated for? mines 750F/1000F

You know I am not sure, its packed away at this moment as I am moving, but if I remember when I was testing ftw heatshrink it barely took much even on the low setting =/
post #6997 of 14272
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lutro0 View Post

You know I am not sure, its packed away at this moment as I am moving, but if I remember when I was testing ftw heatshrink it barely took much even on the low setting =/

if it's the Kawasaki one, I bought the same and it's: 1500w Low temp is 375C, and high is 495C so 707F to 923F.
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post #6998 of 14272
Quote:
Originally Posted by Demented View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lutro0 View Post

You know I am not sure, its packed away at this moment as I am moving, but if I remember when I was testing ftw heatshrink it barely took much even on the low setting =/

if it's the Kawasaki one, I bought the same and it's: 1500w Low temp is 375C, and high is 495C so 707F to 923F.

it is the kawasaki one, so low temp should be fine on mine
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post #6999 of 14272
I've written a word or too on the ferrite beads and caps here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1122053/lutro0-customs-sleeving-tool-tutorials/1060
if you're interested.

Are you sure that in-line caps are actually in-line? I don't think that would make sense.
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post #7000 of 14272
No, your right, it wouldn't make sense. I was just worried about finding a cap in the huge bulge that Corsair had on thier cables and just found a ferrite bead instead. I knew I could remove the bead. Thanks for the cap correction.
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