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Cable Sleeving Gallery & Discussion - Page 719

post #7181 of 14129
Quote:
Originally Posted by wlw wl View Post

ED: Nvmd I jury-rigged a device that surprisingly gives me consistent length all the time, both for wires and for sleeves, and I made 50 cables in like 2 minutes smile.gif

Do share biggrin.gif I was going to suggest crimping the pin on one end before cutting it off the roll. I'm thinking that might cut the inconsistency by half. 2cents.gif
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post #7182 of 14129
Oh that's a well known problem, at least for me.

I ended up putting an empty atx housing into a vise.

I figured out the perfect length for the first cable, cut it, crimped it on one side and plugged it into the housing.
Then I crimped the end of my cable roll, plugged in the pin next to my reference cable and stretched both of them at the same time with some rubberized gloves. It's very easy to get the right length for the new cable with a side cutter or similar. Unplug the wire you just cut to length and repeat the process until you've got enough cables.

Now you're halfway there.

You've got to make sure, that you don't strip the wire too far before crimping it, because otherwise the insulation won't stop the cable to slip too far into your crimp -> different positions of the crimp -> different total cable lengths...
It doesn't matter how perfectly you measured and cut your wires if you don't position your crimps equally all the time. This would end up in ever so slightly different lengths and would drive you crazy.

Because of that I don't recommend this wire stripper from Knipex click me!
Its minimal stripping length is already too long for proper crimping.
If you really want a tool that you can enjoy working with I seriously recommend this one: click me!
I've worked with it and it's amazing.

I'd love to see your technique, sounds like it could be a lot easier and faster than mine.
post #7183 of 14129
Well, completed my 24-pin biggrin.gif

The rig is super simple. I screwed a crocodile clip to a wooden kitchen breadboard and secured it so i doesn't move or rotate.
Then I put a limiter behind it, so the wire/sleeve goes into the clip equally deep every time. It's a... I don't know the proper word, an electrical cube that you use to connect wires together.
Then, with double sided tape, I taped a metal ruler to that board, 30cm from the crocodile clip, so it sticks out in the air.
I use one metal 5,25" to 3,5" converter so the whole rig doesn't slide off the desk. I put the wire cutters or scissors against the ruler when cutting. I put the converter piece between the desk top and the desk "legs" and the board locks against it when I pull on the cable/sleeve.
This gave me, believe it or not, a true millimeter precision on the wires and the sleeve.
I also put a piece of wire inside the crocodile clip so it doesn't bite into the cable that's being cut too much.
It was really made from what I found in the drawer and around me but it works better than I could have thought.

As for the stripper, I already have a cheap but fantastic tool on which I can set the length and it can strip really short pieces of the insulation so it works great. Again, it gives me a millimeter-perfect stripping and crimping. And I paid like $4 for it long time ago and have since stripped thousands of wires with it, including 10-wire ribbons similar to old PATA signal cables - it gets all 10 in one move to the exact same length.

If only my crimping tool would crimp those pins properly... but it doesn't and it's the worst part of the whole process and 1/4 of the pins break during crimping mad.gif

Excuse the craptastic cellphone photos...

The rig and the tool:

20120505030916.jpg

And this is what I came up with, my superb camera doesn't know what colors are, so these in reality are, in order: black, navy blue, dark blue.
Picture (Click to show)
20120505024414.jpg

Together with the 6-pin I did about two days ago:
Picture (Click to show)
20120505025654.jpg

And after doing those millimeter-perfect extensions, I realized that in order for them to make nice rainbows, you can't make them millimeter-perfect... One row must be shorter than the other, how obvious it is now... They look great stretched, but not great at all when bent mad.gif
Edited by wlw wl - 5/4/12 at 6:31pm
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post #7184 of 14129
hey guys, how can i make my housing accept double wired pins? I already had them in but after sleeving i can't seem to be able to fit them back in. Can i just warm it a bit(via lighter) and maybe thatd work?
e: also looking at my mdpc-x order. He charged me level 3 shipping but sent it using level1.. ***?
Edited by mordocai rp - 5/5/12 at 4:32am
post #7185 of 14129
Quote:
Originally Posted by mordocai rp View Post

hey guys, how can i make my housing accept double wired pins? I already had them in but after sleeving i can't seem to be able to fit them back in. Can i just warm it a bit(via lighter) and maybe thatd work?
e: also looking at my mdpc-x order. He charged me level 3 shipping but sent it using level1.. ***?
Three steps, 1. Work at making it fit with the lighter for 30 min 2. Start swearing in frustration 3. Work a little more
Magically after these steps it goes in rolleyes.gif
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post #7186 of 14129
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlazinJoker View Post

Three steps, 1. Work at making it fit with the lighter for 30 min 2. Start swearing in frustration 3. Work a little more
Magically after these steps it goes in rolleyes.gif
ive already done step 2 for multiple days. I fantasize about taking that psu and smashing it with a sledgehammer followed by unload a clip from my 9mm... a man can dream
post #7187 of 14129
I'm having a little bit of an issue with sleeving some round SATA cables. It doesn't seem to grip well, and I'm assuming it is because the cable it is sleeving is rounded, while the sleeve and shrink is flat. It grips fine on the connector, and seems to hold at the base for a bit, but then with some minor twisting and turning of the cable, you can see it start to slip, and will eventually be pulled out.

I tried cutting a smaller piece of shrink, to shrink around the base, to make it thicker, and then a normal piece over all of that. It just blew out. At which point I decided to stop as I don't have much SATA sleeve or shrink, and already might have damaged my SATA cable with the heat gun.
450

These are the cables I want to sleeve:
450

So can this be worked out? Should I try longer pieces of shrink overall, or am I onto something with using a small piece to thicken it up some?
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post #7188 of 14129
Quote:
Originally Posted by Demented View Post

I'm having a little bit of an issue with sleeving some round SATA cables. It doesn't seem to grip well, and I'm assuming it is because the cable it is sleeving is rounded, while the sleeve and shrink is flat. It grips fine on the connector, and seems to hold at the base for a bit, but then with some minor twisting and turning of the cable, you can see it start to slip, and will eventually be pulled out.
I tried cutting a smaller piece of shrink, to shrink around the base, to make it thicker, and then a normal piece over all of that. It just blew out. At which point I decided to stop as I don't have much SATA sleeve or shrink, and already might have damaged my SATA cable with the heat gun.
These are the cables I want to sleeve:
So can this be worked out? Should I try longer pieces of shrink overall, or am I onto something with using a small piece to thicken it up some?

Brush on super glue. I made a video for case fan sleeving and the same concept can apply here. Shoot me a pm if you need more info.
post #7189 of 14129
So after i sleeving my psu, recrimped all of the ends with mdpc-x crimper/crimps my psu no longer works. Bummer and a waste of a 750w seasonic. Time to just make sleeved extenions instead
post #7190 of 14129
What do you mean by "no longer works"? Is it starting?
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