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post #7681 of 9412
just finished sleeving my Silencer MK III smile.gif the build is almost ready

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post #7682 of 9412
Quote:
Originally Posted by ekg84 View Post

just finished sleeving my Silencer MK III smile.gif the build is almost ready

Love the color scheme!
post #7683 of 9412
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lutro0 View Post

Love the color scheme!

thank you Lutroo, i like working with a paracord the only downside of it - it gets dirty relatively easy, especially white one
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post #7684 of 9412
Quote:
Originally Posted by ekg84 View Post

thank you Lutroo, i like working with a paracord the only downside of it - it gets dirty relatively easy, especially white one

You are correct! I actually wash my hands more then a few times when I work with any kind of white sleeving. Not only does it not get marks on the white sleeving but it gives you a better grip as well.
post #7685 of 9412
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Elf View Post

I've had a reply from Eclipse who state 'You would need the 300-009 or 300-164' for the Molex 39-00-0038 and 39-00-0040 pins

300-009

300-164
I've only had a quick look so there will be better images/prices out there.

Might be late replying here, anyway i have this same crimper about 39.00 ship. It is a very solid build tool very sturdy with pressure adjustment and a nice solid grip.
Here is my posting from a different thread... However I'm thimking with a better die set it might do better but not sure what model die to get.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
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post #7686 of 9412
I thought these were strong? lachen.gif

338

Aftermath of my clash with my Silverstone PCI Cords... It won frown.gifsad-smiley-002.gif

I did get them almost fully done tho biggrin.gifbiggrin.gifbiggrin.gif
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post #7687 of 9412
Quote:
Originally Posted by aqualad View Post

Might be late replying here, anyway i have this same crimper about 39.00 ship. It is a very solid build tool very sturdy with pressure adjustment and a nice solid grip.
Here is my posting from a different thread... However I'm thimking with a better die set it might do better but not sure what model die to get. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

I would honestly stick with the mdpc crimper for right now until I cave or someone else (big elf) buys one and tests it. I would hate to see you buy one and then have to get the mdpc crimper anyhow. SO far the track record for other crimpers has been really bad. So just a warning.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aussiejuggalo View Post

I thought these were strong? lachen.gif
338
Aftermath of my clash with my Silverstone PCI Cords... It won frown.gifsad-smiley-002.gif
I did get them almost fully done tho biggrin.gifbiggrin.gifbiggrin.gif

The force required to do that is allot, you really lost that battle lol tongue.gif
post #7688 of 9412
Well, after a night or two thinking about having someone sleeved my PSU cables and doing it myself, I think I will try to sleeve it to test how skillful I am lol.

However, I realized that my AX 850 PCI-E cable have a 2-wires-in-1-hole at the PSU connector going in 2-wires-in-2-holes at the PCI-E connector. I believe that 2 wires wont be fit in 1 hole after doing the sleeving and putting the heat shrink on. What will be the best solution for that problem?

Actually, I have seen a guide seeing how to create to Y connection , but it needs to be solderred. Any solution beside that one?

Thank you in advance, Lutro0.

P.S: Sorry for my bad English since I am not an English native speaker biggrin.gifbiggrin.gif
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post #7689 of 9412
I think that creating the Y connection with soldering is an easy and clean solution.

Otherwise I guess there are solderless splices. I am not sure if these are right, somebody more experienced should confirm it
Molex 19204-0004
Molex 19164-0011

Anyway, I think it would be some unnecessary trouble to find such splices.
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post #7690 of 9412
Pinout diagram for my Seasonic SS-1000XP PSU. The reason I underlined "my" is I've seen different pinout diagrams for Seasonic PSU's. I verified continuity between each connector with a meter, but use at your own risk, I will not be responsible for yours being wired differently!
All connector views are from the rear of the connector with the latch on top.
464
Edited by mandrix - 7/18/12 at 3:46am
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