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post #7991 of 14583
no i was using heatshrink, and i looked/ read all the pics. an even watched the videos frown.gif i have mdpc and the precut heatshrink too!
post #7992 of 14583
Can you take a photo of one of your sleeved wires so we might be able to see how it looks?
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post #7993 of 14583
Quote:
Originally Posted by protzman View Post

no i was using heatshrink, and i looked/ read all the pics. an even watched the videos frown.gif i have mdpc and the precut heatshrink too!

If you are sure you are putting the shrink in the proper place, the key is making sure you insert the cable the correct way, with the little tabs facing the right way in the connector. (I don't actually remember what way exactly, but I believe the pins go back in the connector with the tabs facing the same direction as the plastic tab on the connector, if that makes sense.). Another key thing to remember is to try and do it while the heatshrink is still hot. Not full blown hot, but still malleable enough to fit easily enough inside the connector. It should be a fairly quick movement from shrinking the shrink, and then inserting the wire into the connector.

If perhaps you are placing the shrink too far down on the metal pin, that would definitely cause it to not fit properly. As WiSK suggested, a pic of a sleeved wire might help us pin down the issue.
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post #7994 of 14583
Hi guys, have a question for any of you that know about/have sleeved a SS strider PSU(as far as I know there is no difference between the models), I have just completed sleeving my 850w and I can't seem to get anything out of it and the PSU is making a very very quiet clicking noise when the 24 pin is connected(haven't touched the power button and I've got no lights on the mobo so I don't think I've killed anything). Now, firstly, I have sleeved everything 1:1, I checked before I started and I'm 99.9% sure this is correct but I thought I'd better ask to make absolutely sure. Secondly, there was a crossover wire on the 24 pin(empty space to a 3.3v connector) using a smaller cable, I just cut it off and sleeved without it because it was a serious annoyance for my colour scheme and I couldn't see how it would made a difference(it would only provide a little more current, especially with the smaller wire). Was I wrong in doing that?

Thanks for any help in advance, I really need to get a secondary rig set up for cases like this redface.gif

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post #7995 of 14583
Quote:
Originally Posted by jackeyjoe View Post

Hi guys, have a question for any of you that know about/have sleeved a SS strider PSU(as far as I know there is no difference between the models), I have just completed sleeving my 850w and I can't seem to get anything out of it and the PSU is making a very very quiet clicking noise when the 24 pin is connected(haven't touched the power button and I've got no lights on the mobo so I don't think I've killed anything). Now, firstly, I have sleeved everything 1:1, I checked before I started and I'm 99.9% sure this is correct but I thought I'd better ask to make absolutely sure. Secondly, there was a crossover wire on the 24 pin(empty space to a 3.3v connector) using a smaller cable, I just cut it off and sleeved without it because it was a serious annoyance for my colour scheme and I couldn't see how it would made a difference(it would only provide a little more current, especially with the smaller wire). Was I wrong in doing that?
Thanks for any help in advance, I really need to get a secondary rig set up for cases like this redface.gif
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2

A cheap PSU tester is probably the best insurance against mistakes when depinning and sleeving.

The 3.3V wire (pin 13 to pin 20 right?) is a sense wire and helps the PSU correct voltage at load. PSU will work without it, but could result in very minor over-/under-voltage. Still should be within 5% error margin without that wire. Check Lutro0's double wire video guide for a good way to deal with this.
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post #7996 of 14583
Quote:
Originally Posted by WiSK View Post

A cheap PSU tester is probably the best insurance against mistakes when depinning and sleeving.
The 3.3V wire (pin 13 to pin 20 right?) is a sense wire and helps the PSU correct voltage at load. PSU will work without it, but could result in very minor over-/under-voltage. Still should be within 5% error margin without that wire. Check Lutro0's double wire video guide for a good way to deal with this.

I believe that,s right... so it isn't necessary for operation of the PSU? Hrm... I wonder what's wrong then, if everything is indeed 1:1 then everything should be working(there is no way any wires are mixed up considering the number of times I've checked), I wonder why I can't get anything out of it frown.gif
post #7997 of 14583
Quote:
Originally Posted by jackeyjoe View Post

I believe that,s right... so it isn't necessary for operation of the PSU? Hrm... I wonder what's wrong then, if everything is indeed 1:1 then everything should be working(there is no way any wires are mixed up considering the number of times I've checked), I wonder why I can't get anything out of it frown.gif

Jackie, did you just sleeve the wires or did you make new ones. Also are all of the wires pushed in all the way (check the ends to make sure they all look even)

The pinout for striders is more like a 1-12. Meaning they dont go straight across, but if you have been looking at the pinout then you should be fine on that front.

Have you checked the 8pin eps cable and the others that are connected as well? I would double check to make sure you have those right as well.
post #7998 of 14583

The 3.3v sense wire is required.

 

When you remove it from a unit, you get very poor voltage regulation. An example of this would be the Cooler Master Silent Pro Hybrid vs SIlent Pro Gold.

Same units internally, but the sense wire is missing on the Hybrid model due to it being fully modular and the 3.3v rail dips by 4% while the Gold only dips by 2.5%.

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post #7999 of 14583
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lutro0 View Post

Jackie, did you just sleeve the wires or did you make new ones. Also are all of the wires pushed in all the way (check the ends to make sure they all look even)
The pinout for striders is more like a 1-12. Meaning they dont go straight across, but if you have been looking at the pinout then you should be fine on that front.
Have you checked the 8pin eps cable and the others that are connected as well? I would double check to make sure you have those right as well.
Firstly, sleeved the wires that came with it(I couldn't afford to crimp new cables), they are all in properly and I am 99% sure none are damaged.

What do you mean by this? I've connected them like an extension(but instead of a female connector there is a male connector for the PSU, which I thought was right from when i checked before I started), do you mean that the pin layout is essentially the same on both sides(right now it's a mirror image on the PSU end).

I was using the EPS cable yesterday(already sleeved) with unsleeved cables, so it definitely couldn't be it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tator Tot View Post

The 3.3v sense wire is required.

When you remove it from a unit, you get very poor voltage regulation. An example of this would be the Cooler Master Silent Pro Hybrid vs SIlent Pro Gold.
Same units internally, but the sense wire is missing on the Hybrid model due to it being fully modular and the 3.3v rail dips by 4% while the Gold only dips by 2.5%.

Alrighty then, I might have to do some soldering so it doesn't mess with my colour scheme... silly me, will I be able to boot without it?

Thanks for the help guys, it seems I definitely need it redface.gif
post #8000 of 14583
Quote:
Originally Posted by jackeyjoe View Post

right now it's a mirror image on the PSU end.

Should be like this. But then with pin 20 PSU side spliced into pin 13 M/B side?


This is the ATX24 from short cable set which is compatible with all modular striders. Corresponds with the pinout above.
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