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Cable Sleeving Gallery & Discussion - Page 879

post #8781 of 14272
Moddiy's gold and black sleeves, used on my very first attempt at sleeving. sorry for using a potato instead of a camera. as you can (hopefully) see, the gold is actually 1/2 Gold, 1/2 translucent.

it's more shiny IRL
post #8782 of 14272
How do you get your sleeving to ribbon well or just be straight? My wires are all over the place.
 
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post #8783 of 14272
Quote:
Originally Posted by 350 Malibu View Post

I have to laugh every time I hear someone say their crimp tool is 'bestest of the bestest' because it dives into the insulation of the wire in the shape of an 'm'. All I can see that you are doing is tearing the insulation apart, nothing more. Saying it is stronger is pure BS without some data to back it up. The real strength of the crimp is actually on the shorter wings where there is no insulation at all, direct to the copper wire.

In fact, one of the best hand crimp tools made (by Molex, P/N 638190900) uses the fold over method on the insulation crimps, so how can someone say this is a bad thing when the designer of the connectors themselves has designed a high quality crimp tool this way.

Of course I have no data to prove this at all, but I will throw a challenge out there to anyone that might want to help. I have the above mentioned Molex crimp tool, the cheap azz PPC's Crimp tool, and unlimited access to a $25,000 pull tester. If someone will ship me their MDPC or Lutro crimper (or both, as I was unaware Lutro had a crimper) for a few days I can test the crimp strength of the resulting crimps from each of the tools above. If you have another tool to add to the mix, we can add that too.

Has anyone done or seen this testing before across the available crimp tools? I have never seen it if it has already been done, and would love to see it.

How does, the original tool, crimp the shorter wings? I don't believe it overlaps them. If it does, then yeh, it's pretty crap IMHO. It's for a fact that overlapping the wings isn't as strong as biting into it. Btw, the price says nothing. The price point is 200$ because factories are it's main consumers and a 200$ expense is as little as 20$ for the average consumer.What I mean is, original doesn't always = best result. It's also the same with how you can get non-original molex pins which can be better than the original. Look at the guy above.. he used the tool from PPC, pulled on the wire and it came out. I'm gonna try pulling the wire on mine. It's gonna be super hard. There's no need to test this on a pulling machine.. if you can't take it out by the force of your hands, then it's good enough. The molex tool as I suspect, might 'm' crimp the shorter wings and overlap the insulation wings. That yields a semi-strong connection with the pin, so I do not rule out the fact oem crimpers are designed for better results. The cost seems irrelevant. Lucky us the good oem tools don't cost the moon and give great results.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Noskcaj View Post

Moddiy's gold and black sleeves, used on my very first attempt at sleeving. sorry for using a potato instead of a camera. as you can (hopefully) see, the gold is actually 1/2 Gold, 1/2 translucent.

it's more shiny IRL

You should try making some of these cables without any sleeve in the middle. It often looks a lot better and potentially means a lot less work too. You just have to use a black wire.
Edited by adi518 - 2/21/13 at 6:41am
post #8784 of 14272
Lutro0 posted the Molex preferred crimp chart at #14 here. Both the overlapping and bite crimp are classed as acceptable.

If the MDPC-X tool is properly calibrated then it shouldn't cut into the insulation. Although the PPC tool produces an overlap crimp on the ATX pins it's not very robust and as mentioned can be easily pulled off. It does however do acceptable and robust crimps on the 4 pin molex type auxiliary connector pins on both single and dual wires.

The SN-28B tool produces crimps that damage/crush the insulation even on the lowest pressure setting. However I modified my tool by judicious filing so that it now produces crimps to a similar level as the MDPC-X tool. It also now does very good 'bite' crimps on the 4 pin molex type auxiliary connector pins.
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post #8785 of 14272
Quote:
Originally Posted by KoSoVaR^ View Post

Some Black & Orange by me smile.gif


VERY nice! thumb.gif
post #8786 of 14272
Yeh, one thing that's good on the SN-B28, is the fact it has a third slot just for power molex crimping, which I understand is not recommended to be done with either mdpc-x/lutro's tool.
post #8787 of 14272
Where is a good place to purchase quality extensions. I might just sleeve some of those for a build
 
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post #8788 of 14272
Quote:
Originally Posted by 350 Malibu View Post

I have to laugh every time I hear someone say their crimp tool is 'bestest of the bestest' because it dives into the insulation of the wire in the shape of an 'm'. All I can see that you are doing is tearing the insulation apart, nothing more. Saying it is stronger is pure BS without some data to back it up. The real strength of the crimp is actually on the shorter wings where there is no insulation at all, direct to the copper wire.

In fact, one of the best hand crimp tools made (by Molex, P/N 638190900) uses the fold over method on the insulation crimps, so how can someone say this is a bad thing when the designer of the connectors themselves has designed a high quality crimp tool this way.

Of course I have no data to prove this at all, but I will throw a challenge out there to anyone that might want to help. I have the above mentioned Molex crimp tool, the cheap azz PPC's Crimp tool, and unlimited access to a $25,000 pull tester. If someone will ship me their MDPC or Lutro crimper (or both, as I was unaware Lutro had a crimper) for a few days I can test the crimp strength of the resulting crimps from each of the tools above. If you have another tool to add to the mix, we can add that too.

Has anyone done or seen this testing before across the available crimp tools? I have never seen it if it has already been done, and would love to see it.

Well, I've used 4 different crimp tools (1 Molex from my work, 1 "Made in China" one from a swap meet, 1 from FTWPC that I even paid the extra $10 to have it calibrated, and of course my MDPC crimper that I just got), and I must say, that in order of quality it goes ...

MDPC > FTWPC > Molex > "Made in China"

I thought my FTWPC tool was pretty good, but it did screw up about every 3rd or 4th crimp. So far, I've done about 30 crimps with my MDPC tool and so far, every one is a "perfect M".

Doing some "tug tests" with crimps made by MDPC and FTWPC vs the Molex and "Made in China" tool, I must say, the "M crimp" holds MUCH better than the fold over crimps. Also, given that the Molex tool that I borrowed from work was nearly 4-5 TIMES as expensive as the tool from MDPC, I would NOT recommend it.
post #8789 of 14272
See? My point proven. tongue.gif

I can also get a "Pressmaster" tool which afaik, is the real maker for the Molex tool. I could compare it just for the fun of it.
Edited by adi518 - 2/21/13 at 6:52am
post #8790 of 14272
Quote:
Originally Posted by adi518 View Post

How does, the original tool, crimp the shorter wings? I don't believe it overlaps them. If it does, then yeh, it's pretty crap. It's for a fact that overlapping the wings isn't as strong as 'm' biting into it. The price says nothing. The price point is 200$ because factories are it's main consumers and a 200$ expense is as little as 20$ for the average consumer.What I mean is, original doesn't always = best result. It's also the same with how you can get non-original molex pins which can be better than the original. Look at the guy above.. he used the tool from PPC, pulled on the wire and it came out. I'm gonna try pulling the wire on mine. It's gonna be super hard. There's no need to test this on a pulling machine.. if you can't take it out by the force of your hands, then it's good enough. The molex tool as I suspect, might 'm' crimp the shorter wings and overlap the insulation wings. That yields a semi-strong connection with the pin, so I do not rule out the fact oem crimpers are designed for better results. The cost seems irrelevant. Lucky us the good oem tools don't cost the moon and give great results.
You should try making some of these cables without any sleeve in the middle. It often looks a lot better and potentially means a lot less work too. You just have to use a black wire.

I never said anything about the price of the tool, that is irrelevant. I am talking about the design of the tool, being made by the original designer of the molex connector rolls the wings over at the insulation and does not make an 'm' jamming through or ripping the insulation apart. At the shorter wings where there is NO-INSULATION and the crimp counts it makes an 'm' shape, yes. So how can it be 'bad' to roll at the insulation when the primary crimp (where it's important) is strong?
Quote:
It's for a fact that overlapping the wings isn't as strong as 'm' biting into it.
Jamming a small amount of wing into your insulation makes your crimp stronger? Really, how so? rolleyes.gif
Quote:
I'm gonna try pulling the wire on mine. It's gonna be super hard. There's no need to test this on a pulling machine.. if you can't take it out by the force of your hands, then it's good enough.
Great, then my rolled crimps are "good enough" because I can't pull them out with my hands either, right?

I never said either way was right or wrong, but how can you claim one way is 'bestest' over the other when you have nothing to prove it? Well, other than your manly pull it by hand test... tongue.gif
Edited by 350 Malibu - 2/21/13 at 6:58am
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