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Cable Sleeving Gallery & Discussion - Page 881

post #8801 of 14275
Knucklehead has a great point. I dont know of any user here that would jerk or yank on a wire in their system if they went through all the work of sleeving the system. But its better to be safe than sorry IMO. But I do agree that all the crimpers will be suffice for what we need them for, except for maybe the PPC crimper that started all this LOL, which may just be a bad one.

Nice write up Lutro about the crimping, and your knowledge on said subject is always welcome. But to have an official test, I dont think you should run it just because you have a stake it the outcome. Although I do trust what you do, it would be hard to argue against you being bias . Would be great to have Malibu do an extensive test with a highly accurate(and expensive) machine. Would make a great article to add to the "professionalism" of the site
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post #8802 of 14275
Here are few custom cables I done for my projec Redefine

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post #8803 of 14275
Quote:
Originally Posted by goodtobeking View Post

Knucklehead has a great point. I dont know of any user here that would jerk or yank on a wire in their system if they went through all the work of sleeving the system. But its better to be safe than sorry IMO. But I do agree that all the crimpers will be suffice for what we need them for, except for maybe the PPC crimper that started all this LOL, which may just be a bad one.

Nice write up Lutro about the crimping, and your knowledge on said subject is always welcome. But to have an official test, I dont think you should run it just because you have a stake it the outcome. Although I do trust what you do, it would be hard to argue against you being bias . Would be great to have Malibu do an extensive test with a highly accurate(and expensive) machine. Would make a great article to add to the "professionalism" of the site

Oh I agree fully, I offered to send him him the stash of crimpers for him to use on his machine. The thing with crimping is that you would have to take the average out of 3 to be accurate to remove the human error, and it depends on the persons own crimping methods, wire used.... and the list goes on sadly lol

If noone does something like this soon I will have to go ahead and do the test as most people know if I see something not right no matter if its a sponsored part or one of my own I am going to call it what it is. Sadly only those that have known me for a while know that.
post #8804 of 14275
Quote:
Originally Posted by 350 Malibu View Post

You have proven, nothing...

No. I meant to repeat the fact, oem crimpers (mdpc/lutro) are better than the original and Knucklehead helped confirming it. I admit a pulling test can be curious but TBH, the debate is becoming tedious now. An 'm' bite on both wings is far superior. thumb.gif
post #8805 of 14275
Quote:
Originally Posted by 47 Knucklehead View Post

To be honest, I don't think that it really matters, not for simple cable sleeving inside a computer, if it's a "rolled over" or a "M" crimp. Odds are, people are going to sleeve their cables, put them in place, and leave them, and go "Ohhh ahhh" at them through a plexi-glass windows 99.99999% of the time. Maybe a couple times a year they will open the case and mess with another component lightly touch the wires, or maybe unplug the sleeved cable (hopefully using the plastic connector and not just yank the wires), but generally, they aren't going to be stressed at all.

Now for a MIL-SPEC rating or something crazy, then maybe one or the other is better and it would matter, but as I said before, what ever works for you and you are happy with, that is the "correct" way to do it. thumb.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by goodtobeking View Post

Knucklehead has a great point. I dont know of any user here that would jerk or yank on a wire in their system if they went through all the work of sleeving the system. But its better to be safe than sorry IMO. But I do agree that all the crimpers will be suffice for what we need them for, except for maybe the PPC crimper that started all this LOL, which may just be a bad one.

Nice write up Lutro about the crimping, and your knowledge on said subject is always welcome. But to have an official test, I dont think you should run it just because you have a stake it the outcome. Although I do trust what you do, it would be hard to argue against you being bias . Would be great to have Malibu do an extensive test with a highly accurate(and expensive) machine. Would make a great article to add to the "professionalism" of the site

Guys, I agree that whatever works for you, works for you. rolled, m, or even tied in a bow as long as it holds. My issue is with the guys selling the crimpers, and no offense to Lutro since you are selling a tool now;), is the statement that a rolled fin is bad on the insulation, and the 'm' is the best, so you should buy my more expensive crimper (as shown in the image that was posted previously from we all know where). The reason I am offering to test is because I personally feel the fins around the insulation have minimal effect on the overall strength of the crimp, and I am very curious as to what the real data is behind each crimper. Who knows we may find the 'm' produces an overall tougher crimp. Or we may find that cheaper $20 tool (if it is used right) creates a crimp with the same overall strength as the more touted tools. I am hoping to find out. In addition the data would be great just for people to have a real data difference comparison.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrrockwell View Post

Here are few custom cables I done for my projec Redefine
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Very Nice! thumb.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lutro0 View Post

Oh I agree fully, I offered to send him him the stash of crimpers for him to use on his machine. The thing with crimping is that you would have to take the average out of 3 to be accurate to remove the human error, and it depends on the persons own crimping methods, wire used.... and the list goes on sadly lol

If noone does something like this soon I will have to go ahead and do the test as most people know if I see something not right no matter if its a sponsored part or one of my own I am going to call it what it is. Sadly only those that have known me for a while know that.

Lutro, sorry I did not see your previous post until now. I was probably busy typing away the same time you were. If you were sincere about loaning me the stash of tools, I would be honored to perform the testing and do a write up. If you are curoius the testing would be performed on an Instron 3340 Series, rather then hanging weights from the wires. biggrin.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by adi518 View Post

No. I meant to repeat the fact, oem crimpers (mdpc/lutro) are better than the original and Knucklehead helped confirming it. I admit a pulling test can be curious but TBH, the debate is becoming tedious now. An 'm' bite on both wings is far superior. thumb.gif
jerry.gif
post #8806 of 14275
Well, as a non-tool seller, I found that the middle price point crimpers (at least for me) were better than the cheapest and most expensive.

In order of preference (and cost), I prefer:

MDPC ($70) > FTWPC ($35) > Molex ($250) > "Made in China" ($20)
post #8807 of 14275
Ok, here is an odd question for all the sleevers out there.

After you do a heatshrinkless sleeving job, how far back do your terminals sit from the edge of the connector (6, 8, 24-pin, etc)?

Is 0.5mm or 1.0mm (approximately) "normal"?


I ask this because all the power cables that I have that are store bought have the terminals coming right up to the edge of the connector, and after sleeving, mine sit back about 0.5-1.0mm from the edge. They work (ie the first cable I made using the heatshrinkless method was a SATA power connector and the drive is running just fine), but I just wonder if I'm doing something wrong with doing the heatshrinkless process (this is my first attempt at it).


For example, here is a picture of an after market sleeve job that uses heatshrink:



Notice the terminals sit back just a little, maybe .5mm.




Same with this one, except this is a heatshrinkless job.


But on the cables that came with my Seasonic Platinum 1000 unit, the terminals come pretty much all the way to the edge of the connector.

I hope this makes sense.
Edited by 47 Knucklehead - 2/22/13 at 6:53am
post #8808 of 14275
I think it's down to the slight variance in the way the different connectors and/or pins are manufactured.
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post #8809 of 14275
Quote:
Originally Posted by 47 Knucklehead View Post

Is 0.5mm or 1.0mm (approximately) "normal"?
....
But on the cables that came with my Seasonic Platinum 1000 unit, the terminals come pretty much all the way to the edge of the connector.

Indeed with original Molex pins and connectors there is about 1mm space at the end. But Seasonic don't use original Molex pins nor original Molex connectors. None of the PSU makers do.

If you look at the MiniFit Jr spec then you'll see that the female part of the pin that makes the connection has length 2.6mm, while the male part which slots into that has length 6.3mm. So there scope for over 3mm difference between the position of the male and female parts. So it's fine if the female pins in the Seasonic are a bit further forward.
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post #8810 of 14275



What do you guys think of this? It's my first time sleeving. I did end up melting some of the plastic on those connectors which is quite annoying. Do you think I should have gone all the way up with the sleeving and heatshrink to where the wires are soldered to the solder tabs and just put some MDPC heatshrink over the smaller heatshrink on the wires? I wonder if that might actually end up holding them in place better. Since I did have a mishap with one of the wires coming undone from the solder tab.
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