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Cable Sleeving Gallery & Discussion - Page 894

post #8931 of 14437
Quote:
Originally Posted by MkO611 View Post

Yea i watched every vid i could find. I gave it another go and did what ya told me and still didnt get the paracord stick to the wire and into the connector :/
So i just gave up. I'm thinking of giving it another go after this semester's done
Anyways i did manage to mess up my cables caz i put them back in and now PC wont start lol
I'm thinking its the 24pin snice all the rest were the one's that i didnt tamper with.
Here's wht happaned
http://i.imgur.com/rOZHmhm.jpg?1
Getting this fixed thanks to audioholic!

let me know when is a good time to skype on cam and I will help is audio doesnt get it pattened down
post #8932 of 14437
Is it possible to sleeve fans and front panel connectors with 550 paracord?
post #8933 of 14437
Quote:
Originally Posted by Evil Genius Jr View Post

Is it possible to sleeve fans and front panel connectors with 550 paracord?

Yup!
post #8934 of 14437
Quote:
Originally Posted by Evil Genius Jr View Post

Is it possible to sleeve fans and front panel connectors with 550 paracord?

 

I did it in one of my old builds, here's an example:

 

http://www.overclock.net/t/1320853/paracord-sleeved-fans-noctua-nf-f12-pwm#post_18470516

post #8935 of 14437
Quote:
Originally Posted by Evil Genius Jr View Post

Is it possible to sleeve fans and front panel connectors with 550 paracord?

i did but i took off the ground casing
post #8936 of 14437







This was a royal pain in the ass to sleeve. By the way, any thoughts about the size of the heatshrink used on the USB 3.0 Motherboard connector? I was wondering if I should have used a bit larger piece to ensure the cables are held tightly.

If anyone is wondering what was used:

TechFlex Cleancut 3/8" Sleeving
MDPC Big Heatshrink (3:1)
Krazy Glue

The glue was used to bond the sleeving the cable at the ends of the connectors. MDPC 3/8" sleeving did not fit over the connectors no matter what I tried. MDPC SATA heatshrink could not fit over the connectors even with all the stretching I did. It was just too much work for something like this. So I decided to use the glue to bond the sleeve to the cable and then the heatshrink really is just the finishing touch. It does shrink enough to bond to the connector and sleeving quite well.
Edited by Vitaminx - 3/8/13 at 2:46am
EvuL Machine
(15 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i7-3770K Ivy Bridge GIGABYTE GA-Z77X-UP5 TH EVGA GeForce GTX770 SuperClocked 2GB G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3 1600 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
SAMSUNG 840 Pro Series 256GB  2xSAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 1TB Thermalright Silver Arrow SB-E Windows 7 Professional 64-bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Dell UltraSharp U2713HM Deck Legend - Ice (Linear) CORSAIR Professional Series Gold AX750 SilverStone Fortress Series FT02B-W 
MouseAudioAudio
Logitech G400s NuForce Icon HDP Sennheiser HD 650 Headphones 
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EvuL Machine
(15 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i7-3770K Ivy Bridge GIGABYTE GA-Z77X-UP5 TH EVGA GeForce GTX770 SuperClocked 2GB G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3 1600 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
SAMSUNG 840 Pro Series 256GB  2xSAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 1TB Thermalright Silver Arrow SB-E Windows 7 Professional 64-bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Dell UltraSharp U2713HM Deck Legend - Ice (Linear) CORSAIR Professional Series Gold AX750 SilverStone Fortress Series FT02B-W 
MouseAudioAudio
Logitech G400s NuForce Icon HDP Sennheiser HD 650 Headphones 
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post #8937 of 14437
I got 100 feets 550 paracord from thebushcraftstore.

Edited by banA9Ez06i - 3/8/13 at 2:36pm
post #8938 of 14437
I've been playing around with paracord myself, digging the results. Have yet to sleeve an entire PSU though. redface.gif
post #8939 of 14437
Wisk! I made something for you!

First here is an update to the faq.

How Do I De-Pin My PSU Pins?
– How do I get the wires out of the connectors without damaging, what is the best tool? Click to Expand (Click to show)


This question has been a long time coming and for a large part seems to be one of the hardest things for a sleever to get down. Everyone at one time seems to have a problem with this.

I want to say first off, that please please please! DO NOT waste your money on the de-pinning kits out there. While they all have the basic intentions right they all all not even comparable to the Original Molex Tool. The Original Molex Tool was made by Molex just for the removal of the ATX terminals we use. Its made of high tool quality metal and will last you a life time if you take care of it. Further more, there is only 3 tools you will ever need for de-pinning anything in your computer.

1. The Original Molex Extractor - http://lutro0-customs.com/products/original-molex-extractor
2. A Round 4Pin Molex Extractor - http://lutro0-customs.com/products/round-4pin-extractor
3. A run of the mill exacto knife with a pointed tip. (the exacto knife is used to pull up any of the tap type connectors)


That tool set will last you longer, make your jobs easier, and in the long run cost you less then any other tool on the market.

Before going any further I suggest you give a look at my MDPC Video Guide starting at time: 2:46 - this is where I show exactly how to use the tool and how to handle the problem wires. This is the best method for handling them. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fdckzRWFijM

If you watch the video you will see that my Original Molex Tool is slightly tweaked to be wider then how they come originally - this is a tweak I do to help get the tool on the outside of the pin.



The instructions are simple:

1. Insert the Molex Tool making sure to have both prongs on the outside of the terminal on the inside.
2. Push the wire up into connector while pushing down on the tool to make sure its all the way in.
3. While makeing sure the tool is still all the way in pull out the wire. (sometimes you make need to pull with some force as some terminals dig into the connector as this is how the PSU maker has made them.

This method will ALWAYS work, sometimes you may need allot more pull force then you think you should need but as long as you keep the wire straight so your pulling force is straight out of the connector you will be fine. If you need to repeat the steps and try again.

Allot of people also ask how do I remove the male terminals from the male connectors. It is done exactly the same way.

1. Insert your Molex Tool the same direction as the wings on the terminal and from the front side push the tool in untill it falls into the grooves for de-pinning. This can be frustrating as you can see them while you do this - but you will feel when it goes in. It just takes a little moving around.
2. Pull out wire while tool is pushed in.

And lastly we will cover the Round 4pin Extractor.

The Round 4pin Extractor needs little explanation as you simple use the right end to put over the round pin and then pull it out.

I will cover the Exacto Knife in another section as it needs allot of pictures to fully explain. But the simple rule with the Knife is that if it has a tab slightly lift it and pull the wire out, and if it doesn't have a tab you need to push down on the top part of the metal pin exposed on the side and push down to slide the pin out with the knife. But I will show you how when I update next.

Then here is what I made for WISK

post #8940 of 14437
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lutro0 View Post

Wisk! I made something for you!
Wait, where's my picture?

Lori Lemaris 023
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Felicity Harmon
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Moneypenny
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Lori Lemaris 023
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Felicity Harmon
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Moneypenny
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