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Cable Sleeving Gallery & Discussion - Page 920

post #9191 of 14314
Quote:
Originally Posted by oldcompgeek View Post

You mean the lil' "wings" on the molex pins right? Those are what holds them in the connectors? I've ALMOST gotten okay at the 3-pin and 4-pin pwm connectors, but it's the tool doing the work on those for me. I also have to make a connecting wire from the floppy-style 4 pin to go to my Zalman fan controller, which is a reg 4-pin molex and wanna sleeve that one for sure to cover the splice. With so little clearance between the acrylic panel separating my dvd bays from the mobo tray area, the only way to do it is by using the floppy style 4-pin. I wonder why they don't make more adapters for those? They surely get wasted a lot..??? Thanks again for the tip!!

Which crimper are you using, you may need to get a better quality one.

Have a look my my crimping video that should help out a bunch: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JChLj_F3Gss
post #9192 of 14314
Quote:
Originally Posted by TeamBlue View Post

Depends on what you're doing! If you're using paracord, lighter. If you're using heatshrink with mdpc-x or similar, heatgun. I like a heatgun for heatshrink because it doesn't burn or leave any carbon on the heatshrink. I know some people will say lighter all the way, but that's just my 2 cents.

In your opinion, what gives heatswhrink the tightest fit? I've noticed that with the ol' lady';s Conair, it sometimes leaves the heatshrink a bit wrinkly, and not tight enough no matter how close or how long the heat's on it... Does the brand of shrink matter much?
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MSI 990FX GD-80 Motherboard Review
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Antec's high current gamer 400 is a gem!
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Awesome monster!
Aerocool Strike-x s.t.
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post #9193 of 14314
Quote:
Originally Posted by oldcompgeek View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by TeamBlue View Post

Depends on what you're doing! If you're using paracord, lighter. If you're using heatshrink with mdpc-x or similar, heatgun. I like a heatgun for heatshrink because it doesn't burn or leave any carbon on the heatshrink. I know some people will say lighter all the way, but that's just my 2 cents.

In your opinion, what gives heatswhrink the tightest fit? I've noticed that with the ol' lady';s Conair, it sometimes leaves the heatshrink a bit wrinkly, and not tight enough no matter how close or how long the heat's on it... Does the brand of shrink matter much?

A lighter. It's by far the best if you know what you're doing. It can't be rushed, you have to take your time with it for a perfect, even shrink.
post #9194 of 14314
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lutro0 View Post

Which crimper are you using, you may need to get a better quality one.

Have a look my my crimping video that should help out a bunch: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JChLj_F3Gss

I'm using my crimper/wire cutter (side cut style) that I still have from when I worked @ the forklift plant...lol Just so comfortable usin them that it's hard to switch. You have a quality product there though. Mine aren't ratcheting, but after tons of crimps, you can get a feel somewhat. The problem is seeing things lol and building new stuff is a bit different than removing things and sleeving them, then putting them back together without having any loose connections. Thank you for the video, nice work!thumb.gif
MSI 990FX GD-80 Motherboard Review
MSI 990FXA-GD80 Socket AM3+ AMD 990FX DDR3 CrossFireX & 3-Way SLI SATA3 and USB 3.0 A&GbE ATX Motherboard
Antec's high current gamer 400 is a gem!
Antec High Current Gamer HGC-400 80 plus continuous power supply
Awesome monster!
Aerocool Strike-x s.t.
Reply
MSI 990FX GD-80 Motherboard Review
MSI 990FXA-GD80 Socket AM3+ AMD 990FX DDR3 CrossFireX & 3-Way SLI SATA3 and USB 3.0 A&GbE ATX Motherboard
Antec's high current gamer 400 is a gem!
Antec High Current Gamer HGC-400 80 plus continuous power supply
Awesome monster!
Aerocool Strike-x s.t.
Reply
post #9195 of 14314
Quote:
Originally Posted by oldcompgeek View Post

In your opinion, what gives heatswhrink the tightest fit? I've noticed that with the ol' lady';s Conair, it sometimes leaves the heatshrink a bit wrinkly, and not tight enough no matter how close or how long the heat's on it... Does the brand of shrink matter much?

Heatshrink brand matters a ton. Right now MDPC has the best heatshrink for sleeving available hands down.

But 4:1 thinwalled without adhesive is what you want.

As for what to use you can use a lighter on black shrink but use the blue part of the flame so you dont get charing.

But if you have colored heatshrink a heatgun with a reducer is the only way to go, because no mater how careful you are it will discolor the heatshrink with a lighter.

And a hair dryer will not work, 99% of them do not get hot enough and they dont focus the air on (which is what a reducer will do for you on a heatgun.)
post #9196 of 14314
Good news my sleeve came yesterday morning. And I sleeved my first cables yesterday evening. Once I got the technique down I found it relatively easy to sleeve.
post #9197 of 14314
Quote:
Originally Posted by deltief View Post

I want to sleeve my psu cables, I have the HX 850 and the pci-e cables running to my gpu have a bump thing wrapped in heat shrink about an inch from where the cables plug into the gpu. I hope somebody knows the part Im talking about. What under there and is it okay to cut it off so I can sleeve these cables?

I have the same exact PSU and I can tell you its just a Ferrit bead(may not be spelled right). From my research, its fine to take it off. I thought about sliding it down the line farther so it wouldnt be seen, but I ended up just removing them completely. And as for that, I have seen a video of someone breaking them with a vice and then removing the pieces and HS. I just cut the HS by hand, and pulled one wire at a time through it and I now have them in a box in case I decided I want to put them back on or if I find out that they really do something productive.
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Bubble Bee Tuna
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1Tb Western Digital HDD 1Tb Western Digital HDD Slim Slot stealthed Heatkiller 3.0 CU, Heatkiller 7970 CU with back... 
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Phobya 400mm radiator, EX 360mm radiator, misc ... Swiftech MCP35X2 Pump, Frozen_Q 250mm Liquid Fu... Windows 7 Ultimate Asus 1080P 
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post #9198 of 14314
Quote:
Originally Posted by jfry94 View Post

Good news my sleeve came yesterday morning. And I sleeved my first cables yesterday evening. Once I got the technique down I found it relatively easy to sleeve.

Awesome news smile.gif Sleeving is quite fun, if not arduous at times. Just take your time and things will go well. smile.gif
post #9199 of 14314
Just ordered 30 meters of Shade 19 and 20 meters of Color X from MDPC-X; can't wait!

Plus, it turns out my father has a crimper (many of them, actually), so he sent me a few in the mail smile.gif Should be better than soldering the crimps onto the wires!
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Folder Rodriguez
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Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
Corsair Force 3 120GB SSD Seagate SV35.5 2TB 64MB cache 7200 RPM HDD LG blu-ray R/W Heatkiller CU 3.0 Nickel/Black 115X 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
Swiftech MCP355 w/ Petra's Mod Top Undecided radiator config 12mm OD push fittings, and E22 12mm acrylic tubing Slackware 64-bit 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Arch Linux 64-bit Asus 24" 1920x1080 LED Rosewill 9000 w/ MX Blues Seasonic X650 
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Scratch build test bench Logitech G600 black Xtrac Ripper XXL 2x Corsair AF 140mm quiet edition case fans 
Other
Promilatech PK-1 
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**Possibly used** HifiMan HE-500 headphones **USED** Schiit Lyr headphone amp Jolida Glass FX Tube DAC EK Nickel CSQ 680+ Waterblock 
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2x Aplhacool NexXxos UT60 360mm full copper rad... 6x Scythe Gentle Typhoon 1450 RPM fans 10 meters of 12mm OD nickel plated copper pipe,... 
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post #9200 of 14314
Can anyone tell me how to take out the male pins from an extension cable. The female pins are easy enough with the pin remover tool. But the male pins don't seem to work with the same tool. Male pins in a female housing, just to be clear.
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E IV
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