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Cable Sleeving Gallery & Discussion - Page 940

post #9391 of 14319
Quote:
Originally Posted by KONA604 View Post

Hey guys im trying to sleeve my Cosair HX650 PSU i have never done cable sleeving before i got my self some heat shrink and sleeving off frozencpu.com and using the Sun beam tech ATX pin tool i cant get the pins apart ive watched a tonne of tutorials and even tried using filed down paper clips and staples to get these things apart but nothing has worked got any tips on how i can get these apart?

The tool looks like it does not want to go far enough into the plug it goes in pretty far but i dont hear the click and when i try to push it in a bit further it wont budge mad.gif

any suggestions would be awesome thumb.gif

I use the same removal tool. A lot of people will tell you it is garbage, but it takes a bit of finesse and a bit of a tender touch to get it to work right.

You have to carefully try to wedge each lip of the tool down either side of the connector you're trying to remove. Many times it will seem as though it slid down inside easily, but if you look relly carefully, you'll see that one of the lips has fallen on the wrong side of the pin.

What I personally do, is wiggle the wire the pin is connected to so that I can see that it is even on either side of the plastic connector as I'm looking down at it, then try to fit the tool down either side slowly.

If it slides in easily without much resistance, chances are one of the lips of the tool is not on the right side of the pin.
It takes practice, but I've gotten to where I can fairly easily unpin any of the connectors with that tool.

My tool does not click either, but I've learned that when I feel resistance against the lips of the tool, I have them on the right sides of the pin. I am uploading a few pics to hopefully get a view of what I'm trying to describe.
Edited by Destrto - 5/15/13 at 6:26pm
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post #9392 of 14319
Quote:
Originally Posted by Destrto View Post

I use the same removal tool. A lot of people will tell you it is garbage, but it takes a bit of finesse and a bit of a tender touch to get it to work right.

You have to carefully try to wedge each lip of the tool down either side of the connector you're trying to remove. Many times it will seem as though it slid down inside easily, but if you look relly carefully, you'll see that one of the lips has fallen on the wrong side of the pin.

What I personally do, is wiggle the wire the pin is connected to so that I can see that it is even on either side of the plastic connector as I'm looking down at it, then try to fit the tool down either side slowly.

If it slides in easily without much resistance, chances are one of the lips of the tool is not on the right side of the pin.
It takes practice, but I've gotten to where I can fairly easily unpin any of the connectors with that tool.

My tool does not click either, but I've learned that when I feel resistance against the lips of the tool, I have them on the right sides of the pin. I am uploading a few pics to hopefully get a view of what I'm trying to describe.

Sweet thanks for the feedback man im going to try that right now ill let you now if i can get it to go
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post #9393 of 14319
getting my seasonic platinum x1000 from mr. fedex tomorrow, good thing too because I ran out of stuff to sleeve lol.
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post #9394 of 14319
Alright so i looked and the tool is going on each side of the pin and it slides in with a little pressure but when it hit a certain depth its like it hits a wall ive tried pushing it in while moving the wire around and moving the wire in and out and nothing has changed.

I even tried filing the tool a bit thinner to give it a bit more clearance but that failed as well ive been at this for a few hours now and have not had any luck
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post #9395 of 14319
Quote:
Originally Posted by KONA604 View Post

Alright so i looked and the tool is going on each side of the pin and it slides in with a little pressure but when it hit a certain depth its like it hits a wall ive tried pushing it in while moving the wire around and moving the wire in and out and nothing has changed.

I even tried filing the tool a bit thinner to give it a bit more clearance but that failed as well ive been at this for a few hours now and have not had any luck

You see how the ends of the tool have the point? I actually clipped those off of mine too. I dont know if it made any difference. But thats probably the only difference between mine and yours.
Here are a few pics if that might help.

Here I tried to show the pin even within the opening. Each lip of the tool will go on the outer side of the pin.

If you can see it, I tried to show the lips on the outer edges of the pin.

Hope this helps at all. I know this tool is finnicky and wants to fight you with alot of pins, but it does eventually work.

Also, as I'm sure you've noticed already, the tool is very soft metal, so dont try to get rough or force anything. If it wont go with slight pressure, back out and try again. It took me a few times to notice that one lip of the tool was'nt actually on the outer edge of the pin, but had slipped onto the inside.
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post #9396 of 14319
yeah i have know about the weak metal but you can still apply quite a lot of force as long as you keep it straight as soon as you move a bit side to side it bends

I have them on each side of the pin everytime but it wont let me push it in deep enough

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post #9397 of 14319
Quote:
Originally Posted by KONA604 View Post

yeah i have know about the weak metal but you can still apply quite a lot of force as long as you keep it straight as soon as you move a bit side to side it bends

I have them on each side of the pin everytime but it wont let me push it in deep enough

The only thing I can suggest that might have made a difference in removing the pins easier, is to clip off the sharpened ends of the tool. For some reason, while I was looking at it, it seemed as though the angled ends would not allow the locking pins to be detached enough for the pin to slide out.

I also had to tug quite a bit on some wires in order for them to pull out. But the tool is only supposed to go in so far, you arent supposed to have it go all the way flush. There is maybe a little less than an 1/8" or less depth inside those holes where the locking pins are held.
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post #9398 of 14319
so im working on a cable that i will never need in my build (Bitfenix prodigy m-ITX) it is a extra sata power to the 6 pin and i was like **** it im going to give this a thing a good tug with the tool in the end and the result was the wire coming out but the pin staying in im getting frustraded with this and i am considering buying new connectors and some pins and just cuting the wires and then just doing it that way
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post #9399 of 14319
Quote:
Originally Posted by KONA604 View Post

so im working on a cable that i will never need in my build (Bitfenix prodigy m-ITX) it is a extra sata power to the 6 pin and i was like **** it im going to give this a thing a good tug with the tool in the end and the result was the wire coming out but the pin staying in im getting frustraded with this and i am considering buying new connectors and some pins and just cuting the wires and then just doing it that way

If you're pulling that hard and the pin still isnt coming out, then you dont have the tool in properly. I know this because I did the very same thing, I pulled on the wire so hard that the wire itself came out of the pin while the pin stayed inside the connector.

I admit, it is very tricky to get those lips of the tool just right, but when you do, you'll notice a difference it the way it feels when you push the tool down.
Trust me, I got plenty frustrated with this tool at first too. I found things got quite a bit easier once i started slowing everything down and taking notice of whether the tool was inserted properly or not.
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post #9400 of 14319
Hey,

Just wondering what the thickest AWG cable that can fit into Paracord? As I want to sleeve all the Case cables (the ones that come with the R4) but not sure if they will all fit in Paracord or not smile.gif
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