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Cable Sleeving Gallery & Discussion - Page 952

post #9511 of 14330
My work using Frank's stitch and Bitspower Super Tight Weave 1/16" biggrin.gif Had to redo all cables from scratch with white wire.




Sorry for potato on the last one


Took lots of time, but worth it. I had to upgrade the PSU before I got time to do the 24pin, at least I saved that laughingsmiley.gif

I will probably use white paracord for the new one.
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post #9512 of 14330
had the same issue with white sleeve on my first build. build looks good.
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post #9513 of 14330
I've been unable to sleeve my PSU's ATX cables with moddiy gold. Black works fine but gold either snags (with tape) or won't fit over the tape.
Is there a way round this?

Also, does the heatshrinksless method of paracord work onto wire or only over a crimp/pin

The questions are for two different builds
post #9514 of 14330
you need to make a tool or buy one for paracord, forget what a lot of sleevers say, use the tool not tape will save you hours.
paracord needs something to melt too, so with a cable it will slide along it, it needs some sort of stop ie crimp or terminal.

will find the link for the para tool and pm you
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post #9515 of 14330
Quote:
Originally Posted by kingchris View Post

you need to make a tool or buy one for paracord, forget what a lot of sleevers say, use the tool not tape will save you hours.
paracord needs something to melt too, so with a cable it will slide along it, it needs some sort of stop ie crimp or terminal.

will find the link for the para tool and pm you

http://lutro0-customs.com/products/paracord-tool-threader thumb.gif
post #9516 of 14330
Quote:
Originally Posted by kingchris View Post

you need to make a tool or buy one for paracord, forget what a lot of sleevers say, use the tool not tape will save you hours.
I've finally got the gold sleeve working using industrial tape. it wouldn't fit over a sleeving tool.
post #9517 of 14330
Some tips for anyone who may use Moddiy gold sleeve:
Like gold, this sleeve can be viewed in many colours. This is because the sleeve alternates between gold plastic and shiny clear plastic so it will change as the colour of the cable changes.
Red and orange look identical through the cable.
The sleeve is very difficult to use both because it doesn't flex much and because it snags easily.
The only way to get this over an ATX pin is with thin, strong tape or possibly thin tool.
The sleeve frays easier than normal

To sum up: A very good looking sleeve that is very difficult to use.
post #9518 of 14330
Quote:
Originally Posted by Noskcaj View Post

Some tips for anyone who may use Moddiy gold sleeve:
Like gold, this sleeve can be viewed in many colours. This is because the sleeve alternates between gold plastic and shiny clear plastic so it will change as the colour of the cable changes.
Red and orange look identical through the cable.
The sleeve is very difficult to use both because it doesn't flex much and because it snags easily.
The only way to get this over an ATX pin is with thin, strong tape or possibly thin tool.
The sleeve frays easier than normal

To sum up: A very good looking sleeve that is very difficult to use.

Bummer that sounds like an interesting mix of colors.
post #9519 of 14330
Since i've finally worked out how to sleeve ATX cables, so updates.







I used the flash to show the gold and because my lighting is ever worse
post #9520 of 14330


Pro Tip:

When heatshrinkless sleeving one of the most important things to get right is how you are melting the sleeve and how it looks when you insert it into the connector. If you did too much or too little it will show in this phase or not even click inside the connector at all.

That is why heatshrink is used on plastic sleeving and paracord you can use no heatshrink. As you melt the plastic the heatshrink will help form a cone of sorts neatly sealing the edge of the sleeve. With plastic type monofilament sleeve this is so much more important as those strands like to bend out of place, and paracord melts together allowing you to make a cord and its a softer material so it will go into the connector much easier allowing much more room for error.

The heatshrink you use is so important for this "heatshrinkless" method as it needs to be somewhat resistant to heat and hold its form when heated with a lighter for longer amounts of time not leaving too much of a residue on the sleeve. Also you do not want it being too tight and squeeze the plastic too hard as that will not give you a gradual cone but more of a melt then sleeve with no transition making putting the sleeved cable into the connector almost impossible and defiantly not leaving it how it should look. I recommend the following shrink for heatshrinkless as its the same I use : http://lutro0-customs.com/products/1-4th-inch-3-1-ratio-heatshrink-4ft-for-heatshrinkless cut in about 10mm lengths so the last edge does not get shrunk making it easy to cut off. The heatshrink needs to be able to handle the heat because when you are done heating it up you need to pat it down to help form the cone shape and ensuring a strong melt onto the wire and pin.

Of course there is more things that make the heatshrinkless method not only easy but a thing of beauty fully filling the connector leaving you with a fully sleeved cable that is easy to train.

The example shown is of LC Custom 16awg wire with LC Stiff-Line Brown Sleeving which is why it looks full and super dense not showing the wire a bit and this shot is a close up.
http://lutro0-customs.com/products/lc-custom-16awg-black-wire-1ft
http://lutro0-customs.com/products/lc-stiff-line-sleeving-brown-25ft

I hope that this helps you sleevers out there get more of an understanding of a method that is never cut and dry but more of an art.
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