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[Official] --The Asus P6X58D Premium & E Thread-- - Page 422

post #4211 of 6378
i used FESER ONE uv fluid Non conductive green.

i will go to the water cooling section then and ask,
i just bought that pump res (xspc 750lph)
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SigRig
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post #4212 of 6378
Before I do anything else I'll make sure AHCI is enabled in the BIOS (it is) and set it to boot from the DVD.
I then shut down the comp. and remove all my hdd's.
I'll then install the new Crucial RealSSD C300 128 GB SSD in the case using a SATA-3 cable and a SATA-3 mobo port.
Now, is there anything special I have to do other than unseal the new Win7 Pro x64 CD, put it in the DVD and let Windows install to the new SSD?
I've been through the HDD thread on this forum, searched Google, Crucial and everywhere else I could think of and could not find anything about doing this one, hopefully, simple task.
Everywhere I searched was either about installing a SSD to a notebook, installing to a comp that has used HDD's already installed or something else that had not one thing to do with installing a new SSD and a new copy of Windows into a desktop comp. that has no other drives attached or even physically present in the case.
Do I need to do anything other than to start the comp., install the cd in the dvd drive, restart and let Windows do its thing? Does this P6X58D-Premium have any quirks in its BIOS that I need to address 1st?
AFTER the SSD, OS and the comp are stable, THEN I'll try installing 2 WD RE-III's, 1 TB each, along with a WD 2TB, all 3 fully formatted, in the comp and hook them up to the #'s 1, 2 and 3 SATA-2 ports, hopefully, in RAID 10. (Or would that be RAID 0+1?)
If that won't work then I'll have this comp. running the SSD only. After all the reading I've done on this subject, (to no avail) I'm so damned confused that I'm seriously considering refusing delivery of this SSD when it arrives Tuesday.
Thanks in advance,
k1
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post #4213 of 6378
I'd try to use all three and see which one yields the lowest temps. As for your pump there are several good ones out right now. For your setup I would go with a MCP-350 or MCP-355 as they will give you plenty of head pressure without too much. They also will give you the chance to upgrade to add other parts such as other Rads or blocks in the future without having to upgrade. Here are some links below for them. Also check out the MCP-35x as it is a great pump with some awesome power behind it.

Swiftech MCP-350

Swiftech MCP-355

Swiftech MCP-35X

Hope that this helps


Quote:
Originally Posted by TheNutzRutz View Post
should i invest in a new pump if so what one should i get? really need pump/res in one as it is easier to mount

What about one of these http://www.candccentral.co.uk/XSPC-X...voir-Pump.html also i have differant plates for the cooler should i use the low flow plate

ie the one with 3 slots cut out, the one already installed it the 5 slot i believe
post #4214 of 6378
That looks pretty much like all of what you need to do. If it doesn't work then let me know and I will walk you through what you need to do to enable AHCI after installing windows as it is only a 5-10 minute process.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kzinti1 View Post
Before I do anything else I'll make sure AHCI is enabled in the BIOS (it is) and set it to boot from the DVD.
I then shut down the comp. and remove all my hdd's.
I'll then install the new Crucial RealSSD C300 128 GB SSD in the case using a SATA-3 cable and a SATA-3 mobo port.
Now, is there anything special I have to do other than unseal the new Win7 Pro x64 CD, put it in the DVD and let Windows install to the new SSD?
I've been through the HDD thread on this forum, searched Google, Crucial and everywhere else I could think of and could not find anything about doing this one, hopefully, simple task.
Everywhere I searched was either about installing a SSD to a notebook, installing to a comp that has used HDD's already installed or something else that had not one thing to do with installing a new SSD and a new copy of Windows into a desktop comp. that has no other drives attached or even physically present in the case.
Do I need to do anything other than to start the comp., install the cd in the dvd drive, restart and let Windows do its thing? Does this P6X58D-Premium have any quirks in its BIOS that I need to address 1st?
AFTER the SSD, OS and the comp are stable, THEN I'll try installing 2 WD RE-III's, 1 TB each, along with a WD 2TB, all 3 fully formatted, in the comp and hook them up to the #'s 1, 2 and 3 SATA-2 ports, hopefully, in RAID 10. (Or would that be RAID 0+1?)
If that won't work then I'll have this comp. running the SSD only. After all the reading I've done on this subject, (to no avail) I'm so damned confused that I'm seriously considering refusing delivery of this SSD when it arrives Tuesday.
Thanks in advance,
k1
post #4215 of 6378
Enable AHCI after I install Windows on the SSD?
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post #4216 of 6378
Quote:
Originally Posted by kzinti1 View Post
Enable AHCI after I install Windows on the SSD?
Definitely better, it will save you some time later. But if you don't, not the end of the world, there is a reasonable workaround to fix it after the fact.

eric
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post #4217 of 6378
Yeah try and do it before but if you don't do it right then don't worry about it as there is an easy way to fix it after you install windows. So just try to set it up first and if it doesn't work then PM me and I will walk you through it.
post #4218 of 6378
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheNutzRutz View Post
i have a xspc rx360 rad in a haf x case and the pump i cant remember the brand but it is old

i just did another test with IBT and these are my results (hovered at 68 to 69c on the first core only touching 71 for a second)

Here are some pics of my setup and the last temps taken with ITB HT is on by the way


PUMP > RAD > CPU > RES
I just noticed this post. Regardless of what the CoolerMaster ads say, and their Reps, the HAF-X is a piss poor case for watercooling! Here's the review I left at NewEgg 8/30/2010.

"Rating: 2/5Air Cooling ONLY
Pros: Excellent AIR-COOLED case!
This HAF (High Air Flow) case is made exclusively for that. High Air Flow. Don't even think for one second that this is in any possible way an excellent Water-Cooling Case!
CoolerMaster is one of my favorite, high-quality case manufacturers. Always has been and probably always will be. They didn't exactly lie about this being a watercooling capable case. They just did NOT state exactly what watercooling this case fully entailed. Is this a sin of omission? Absolutely. A half truth is still a flat-out lie.
If you want an air-cooled case this is it! Bar None! There just isn't any better at air-cooling than this case.

Cons: A Pitiful WATER-COOLED case!
I bought this case because it's supposed to be very good for water-cooling. It is NOT! Yes, a 3 fan radiator will fit. IF it's a thin radiator, NOT a Thermochill radiator. They're too thick. You'll need a Black Ice Stealth or equivalent. Also, NOT if you want to use a shroud. Or a 6 fan push/pull system.
Of course, if you have the tools and, most importantly, the knowledge, you can watercool this case. You can also turn a plastic shoebox into a watercooled computer case if you have the tools and know-how.
A Corsair cpu watercooler will work. I have the H70 in my HAF-X with a Feser shroud. It works just fine but that isn't what I bought this case for.

Other Thoughts: I MAY be able to mount the Corsair cooler into the front drive-bay. Maybe. Then I could mount a Swiftech radiator to the back to watercool my VGA card. But, I still didn't buy this case to hang a watercooler on the back. Or mount one on rods above the case as I've seen done before. If you want a watercooling case, look elsewhere. I bought a Mountain Mods UFO within 2 weeks of buying this HAF-X. If it wasn't for the shipping hassle (plus restocking fee, plus return shipping cost) I would've returned this case the day after I received it.

Manufacturer Response:
Dear Valued Customer,

We apologize for any inconvenience. The case in question fully supports water cooling. It is not advertised that it will support all water cooling products. It will support most standard sized radiators such as 240mm and 360mm. Anything that is unique or custom may not work. If you have any questions, please contact our Live Chat Service below.

Respectfully,


CMUSA Customer Support."

What they consider a "standard-sized radiator" is beyond me. You just don't get more standard than my ThermoChill PA120.3 which was the top-rated 3x120mm. fan radiator for umpteen years!
If I'm not mistaken it was in the watercooling section of this site that reported that the XSPC you're using is a very good radiator. But, since it has a very densely packed set of fins that means that 1st, your fans have to push air through the rad., not pull air through it. And, for me anyway, that also means you should use 2 sets of fans in a push-pull set-up. Preferably with a fan shroud on the push side of the set-up. I'm not gonna quote my above quote so just read it and then look at your HAF-X. I think you'll agree.
The fix? Get a thinner radiator such as a Black Ice Stealth and possibly your pump. Our machines cost way too much to chance using an iffy component as important as a cooling pump!
Finally, I know next to nothing about 6 core cpu's. I can't envision how adding 2extra cores to a 4 core design could run as cool as, or cooler, than a 4 core cpu. Thermodynamically, when you add a heat source to a heat source the heat rises.
Yes, I know Intel didn't find directions to getting down from their tree, temporarily uncross their eyes and remove their thumbs from their noses and superglue 2 more cores on a 4 core processor. The Gulftown cpu's are completely newly designed cpu's from the ground up, except for the LGA package, (Huh? How'd that happen?) and, I also can't possibly imagine why I'd ever, EVER have any use for one. If I was offered one for 300 bucks I'd go for it. Any more than that and it would be "No, thanks."
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Windows 7x64 SP 1 Dell U3011 Duckyshine Year of the Snake Corsair 1200i 
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post #4219 of 6378
kzinti1, I like your choice in SSD's for your O/S. Are your transfer rates as avertised using the Sata 3 6G port?

Thank You.
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post #4220 of 6378
Man i see u are not a fan of these cases
i have a push pull setup on my rx360 and still have high temps i dont think its the case as the temps in the case are are very good its just the cpu that is TOOOOOO HOTTTT
i have bid and won a x20 XSPC rad/res on ebay for £40 so i will use that and see if that helps as i cant think what else it could be

I have reseated the ek block 4 times today and found the X application methord is DEFENATLY the best for max coverage and i used tx 3 so top line stuff there i have the water flowing in the right direction (i made sure of that) and it is still to bleeding hot
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SigRig
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27" Hazro IPS panel 10bit, + 24" Benq XL2410T 3... G510 Gaming board corsair AX1200w Gold series  HAF X 
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