Since the only site I could find that showed any sort of detailed disassembly of the 2013 model was Polish, I figured I'd take pictures while rebuilding and even circle important things! If you want to take yours apart, then just read this post backwards.
First off, I apologize for some of the crappy close-ups. I swear they looked better on my phone. Anyway, this is an incredibly common microswitch. It's manufactured by Omron and is model D2FC-F-7N. It's used in a number of Razer and Logitech mice, and I believe Apple mice as well. Actually, make that every mouse in the world except some Zowie mice. This is the semi-worn right-click switch which I am saving for later use. They cost about a dollar each. I picked up six for $5.99 on Amazon.
There are three solder joints each holding the switches in place. I believe the line of six going diagonally in the left half of the picture go to the side buttons. Those shouldn't wear out as often as your primary buttons though. Anyway, you'll need to desolder them and solder in new switches. It's pretty basic. I mean, I pulled it off!
From top to bottom, we have a number of different wires:
- First is a daughterboard for the scroll wheel's LED. I almost broke this trying to remove the PCB; I didn't realize it was anchored down. It's held in place by a single black screw - every other screw in this thing is silver - and permanently attached to the mainboard. Be careful if you want to keep it.
- Second, there's the USB header. This is important for reasons that I hope are obvious.
- Third, the socket for the green pulsating LED that is covered by your hand in use. I removed it and its daughterboard entirely. I assure you, it's not difficult to do and you don't need instructions.
- Fourth, there's a socket for something to do with the sensor. I'm not sure if it's power for an LED or what to be honest, but it's probably important.
Two long screws anchor the mouse down here. They go through the side buttons' mounting points. They need to be removed.
Crappy close-ups? Yeah, crappy close-ups.
I hope it's pretty self-explanatory. Just be aware that the scroll wheel needs to be re-fitted first, THEN the board replaced. (Alternatively, for disassembly, remove the board first and THEN the wheel.) Be careful with the LED board. It looks fragile. It should be the first thing you uninstall and the last thing you reinstall.
All six screws circled. These are the only internal screws you should need to mess with.
Cover back on. It should just slide into place. You still need to screw it in, but that's easy enough. Normally, you'd be able to see the LED for the pulsing logo. As mentioned earlier, I took it off. It just slides and clips into place and is very easily removed.
You'll need a #1 screwdriver for this. I managed with a #0 taking it apart, but I almost stripped some of the screws. Don't do it, it's dumb.
Press down toward the bottom of the warranty/serial number sticker and you should feel an indentation. Take a screwdriver, stab through it, and start turning. You should get a screw out. Underneath the two feet at the top are two other screws. I didn't remove them fully and just stabbed through the adhesive pad. It works well enough and the feet just fold back when you're done. A couple hours of use tops should flatten them again.
And finally, the top gets replaced. This is a pain in the arse. Everything clips in place, but at the top of the mouse cover, there are two little nubs. The plastic extensions on the buttons hook over these and it swings into place. In retrospect, I probably should have gotten a picture.
Basically, don't force anything and make sure everything is flush. You shouldn't even see a gap other than at the very top.
Also, if you're taking this apart, I highly recommend the newer style Lego brick separators as a cheap spudger. Unlike a flat head screwdriver, they're made of ABS plastic. This means they deform instead of whatever you're trying to disassemble, and they shouldn't take chunks out of anything or damage the edges. A credit card also works, but I've found them to be a bit flimsy, too thick in some case, and not too precise. Check Ebay; they're about 25 cents each if you buy in bulk.
Anyway, that's how my evening has gone. I might have gotten frostbite on my toes. It was really cold in the garage and not socks-and-sandals weather.