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post #101 of 340
Too much secks in too little space!!! Bigger pixs!!
    
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post #102 of 340
Epik.

You sir, have impressed me to the point where I have lost my ability to spell.
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post #103 of 340
Quote:
Originally Posted by Romir View Post
That's the plan, let the cold offline loop warm up and watch the recording sensor changes. They'll be logging and ftp'ing updated charts 24/7.

I learned how to cheaply test the loops capacity. A wired up 1500 watt heater element is under $20 for the few pieces at Lowe's.

The 1-wire network system is digital and will off direct burial cat5e. I didn't know about this system before so I'm really looking forward to setting it up and learning the automation capabilities. I took the easy route and bought an assembled hub from hobby-boards. It should make an easy star topology that will give me extra channels for simple expansion any which way. On your subject, itt has a power injector for longer runs where parasitic power isn't enough. Some of the sensor boards, like the moisture one, can optionally use it too.

I bought a usb interface to hook the hub up to a Mini 9 with Ubuntu server. The software will be OWFS, or maybe Digitemp if OWFS is too hard to fully set up at first. Later on I'd like to get a $50 Linksys NSLU2 appliance and sell the netbook.

Oops, I only gave the domain 2.5gb. Fixed, thanks.
Awesome, Romir. Wow, great job on the research and resource location. You are going to have a very formidable system!
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post #104 of 340
I can smell that fresh turned dirt......And it smells like pure chip pawnage from here!
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post #105 of 340
Romir, I was at the sink washing dishes, thinking about wasted heat and heat reclamation (as per waste water heat) and I realized that if your system is really absorbing a lot of heat before the cooling section, and you want to use this heat to warm your living space while it's colder outside, you could run the return line through a radiator or two before discharging the heat underground. Just a thought. Easy enough with quick disconnects, ya?

I figure, if you could use some of the heat energy, why waste it?
Cheers.
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post #106 of 340
This is really incredible. I've just now found it and read every page. I sure hope you get the results you're looking for. It certainly appears like you've done your homework! I'm subscribed!
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post #107 of 340
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slink View Post
Romir, I was at the sink washing dishes, thinking about wasted heat and heat reclamation (as per waste water heat) and I realized that if your system is really absorbing a lot of heat before the cooling section, and you want to use this heat to warm your living space while it's colder outside, you could run the return line through a radiator or two before discharging the heat underground. Just a thought. Easy enough with quick disconnects, ya?

I figure, if you could use some of the heat energy, why waste it?
Cheers.
Yep, I'm going to use hose and barbs in the utility closet so things can easily be swapped in or out. That also avoids connecting the pump directly to pvc piping and not having to worry about the vibrations effect on the connections.

My two old PA120.3s are waiting in sideline to be used for some potential (minor?) climate control. These conveniently have the lowest pressure drop of any PC radiator. That's vital for the potential 3ish GPM flow rate of entire finished loop.



The best way to exploit that 65ish degree air would be to blow it into a heat pump's air intake. DIY water ground source heat pump projects have been done before. One mega-thread on that is: http://ecorenovator.org/forum/projec...manifesto.html.

If this projects wet loop works out pretty well, and the readings from temperature probe buried at the top of my hill seem suitable, I'd like to attempt that kind of project. Once insulated, my garage could be cooled by a modified 6,000 BTU window ac unit, a more modest circulating pump, and another cheap 300' coil of buried piping. HVAC costs have prevented me from doing a garage gym. It'd be nice to move the power rack out of the dining room!

Quote:
Originally Posted by dmitt25 View Post
This is really incredible. I've just now found it and read every page. I sure hope you get the results you're looking for. It certainly appears like you've done your homework! I'm subscribed!
Thanks for the kind words. Sourcing boxes of thicker pipe insulation has been a problem and will eat up more of my budget than planned. Unfortunately, it might take a couple weeks to get a couple boxes of r-value 4 pipe insulation from the cheapest source. I don't want to use the super cheap 3/8th walled ones with a 1.9 r-value and later regret it. If I wasn't going down a hill 45 feet each way, and putting the pump in another room, the outside insulation would be so much simpler. A short exterior run could be super insulated with high r-value spray foam in pvc conduit without breaking the bank.

Edit: I might do that for the COLD water pipe that goes in to my PC area. The insulation of the water pipe from the loops is the most important. If there's enough over-capcity in the trench, then the extra heat gained or coldness lost while going back down will be absorbed and negated.
Edited by Romir - 2/21/10 at 1:22pm
post #108 of 340
Reading, watching, learning, looking forward progress!
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post #109 of 340
@Romir: Cool. I guess you needn't concern yourself with the freezing temperature of water. Oh, what coolant are you using, anyway? I may have missed it... *Searches back through posts*

Also, I understand you aren't using much PVC in your system, but as long as you are, I hope you're aware that PVC will shatter with sharp/hard impact, and can also rupture given enough internal pressure (not that pressure would be of much concern in this case, but hey, a pressure kill-switch or a check valve with emergency overflow reservoir might be a good idea). Anyway, I doubt you will ever run into either problem, but at least a check valve would be nice, and a PSU sensor (can't remember if you were planning one of those).

I hope you intend to implement a kill-switch for the pump, in case of a leaks/coolant loss! Perhaps a float switch in the PVC reservoir would do nicely?
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post #110 of 340
you sir are insane, and epic
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