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post #111 of 340
-face palm-
this is what i get for letting my parents move me to the city, it means i cant do crazy stuff like that, i mean we would have been living in an area with my family, there farmers they could have done this for me with a tractor

and like my friend jhon (yes we sort of know each other no more jhon john jokes plz) said EPICsauce
whats the end price on this? show us a graph of price to degree compared to other common custom loops
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post #112 of 340
completely freakish project. really curious about the result. best of luck!
post #113 of 340
Quote:
Originally Posted by johndprob View Post
whats the end price on this? Show us a graph of price to degree compared to other common custom loops
lawl.

Quote:
Originally Posted by johndprob View Post
-face palm-
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post #114 of 340
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slink View Post
@Romir: Cool. I guess you needn't concern yourself with the freezing temperature of water. Oh, what coolant are you using, anyway? I may have missed it... *Searches back through posts*

Also, I understand you aren't using much PVC in your system, but as long as you are, I hope you're aware that PVC will shatter with sharp/hard impact, and can also rupture given enough internal pressure (not that pressure would be of much concern in this case, but hey, a pressure kill-switch or a check valve with emergency overflow reservoir might be a good idea). Anyway, I doubt you will ever run into either problem, but at least a check valve would be nice, and a PSU sensor (can't remember if you were planning one of those).

I hope you intend to implement a kill-switch for the pump, in case of a leaks/coolant loss! Perhaps a float switch in the PVC reservoir would do nicely?
Since this winter is about over, I'm only going to use water for now. Later on there's a good chance I'll split the loop and use a brazed heat exchanger to cool the PC(s) loop(s). Then I can get more aggressive with the geothermal loops coolant for the next winter because I don't feel up to trenching the below the house piping. They're all down the loop from the PCs so in theory the pit will fully absorb the temperature difference anyway. There will still be R4 insulation in the crawl space, which is better than my water pipes actually. I'm still leaning towards PVC because the Pex fittings are so expensive.

Flow sensor monitoring has been abandoned because of the $100+ cost. I haven't given any thought pressure problems because the pumps max system pressure of 24 seemed low enough. I do admit to being ignorant if that number is directly comparable to the pipes rated pressure, or if other factors in the loop increase that somehow. At work, the backrooms air hoses are connected by PVC manifolds, universally considered an extremely bad idea, for nearly twenty years now without a single problem. Well aside from the moisture in the lines.

A float switch is planned but I haven't picked one out. It looks like the cleanest way to install it will requiring cutting the cable and feeding it through a drilled hole in the res's screw on top (upside down drain valve). If the project works out okay I'm going to buy a spare pump while the eBay seller still has some left for under $100.

Thursday is the new tentative date for testing the pump, res, and COILED piping above ground. I'll get a couple fittings to have a 1/2 ID section for the King flow meter and my extra water blocks.

I'm planning on doing the coils Wednesday, it should be dry enough then. Straightening it out might not have been the best idea because I'll have to turn over the whole excess length once for every coil.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnDProb View Post
whats the end price on this? show us a graph of price to degree compared to other common custom loops
I budgeted $500 originally to go overkill with 800 rpm fans on 8 FPI SR1 radiators and then committed to this project instead. I'll probably go past that by a little bit, depending on what insulation I settle on. The cost overun is mostly due to having upwards of 100 feet of piping to go down and up the hill plus however much I use in the crawl space to connect my PC area with the utility closet.

IF I came straight up with BOTH loop pipes into my computer area and had the loop next to my house the lowest material costs would've been:

$99 - 3/4" X 300' PE Coil 160 PSI SDR11 PIPE w/ S/H
$4 - 2 3/4 steel coupler barbs for connecting the piping
$10 - 3/4 to 1.25 inch worm clamps
$102 - Iwaki MD 30RZT-115NL Pump w/ S/H
$6 - Plastic barbs and 3/4 coupler for the pump
$14 - 3" PVC reservoir's cost
$7 - PVC primer and cement
$5 - Steel band and screws to mount it
$3 - Plastic barbs for it
$10 - Utility hose to connect the pieces
$10 - 24 feet of 3/8th wall pipe insulation for the short run outside
$10 - Adapting to 1/2 computer loop

A respectable $279 total. Renting a back hoe to do this would be the real expense.

I'm getting killed on my insulation, numerous brass fittings for the extra in-line components, placing the pump in another room, and having half a dozen planned valves.
post #115 of 340
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post #116 of 340
Thread Starter 
Today's quick update:

There's not much to report today. I finished the reservoir and connected all the utility closet component's fittings with some sealant. They're all ready to be connected.

That sealant is marvelous for liquids and gasses.


Bottom fitting of the assembled reservoir. The piece of piping was JB welded there to create a safe spot to put silver in the bottom of the res.


Look carefully and you can see the outline of that thin pipe.


The finished reservoir. It'll be mounted by steel bands to exposes studs in the utility closet.


Couplers and barbs mounted and sealed to the pump.


Smaller 1/2 barbs connected to a bushing on the King 5 gpm flow meter. I plan to mostly use this for testing purposes near the pc and probably won't keep it in the loop all the time.


Its going to rain tomorrow so I don't have anything planned. Coiling and zip tying the piping together is the next big step now that the trench size has been finalized. Keeping it under 20 feet (the plan all along) will allow the excavator to remain in one spot and dig the entire run. We're still targeting 10-12 feet, even in the wet muddy soil. The coiled loop will be ready to drop down in under a minute from the final muck lifting pass.

On a side note, I feel like an idiot for mis-reading this diagram.

.

The WET soil lines are the left most in both groups. I thought they were the outside ones which didn't make much sense. So at 12 feet, wet soil has a temperature rise equivalent to light dry soil at 20+! If this is accurate for my location, the ground temperature won't go above 18 degrees celcius ever.

Winter ambient temperatures in the summer, near silently. That was the lofty goal from the start.

I'll believe it when I see it.

(please be true, please be true, please be true)
post #117 of 340
I have to say, the thermal properties of water should do quite nicely, as long as your lines don't freeze. Provided you don't have many problems with corrosion, you COULD stick with water for a long time. However, I'm curious as to how the brass will hold up to water...

I'm considering chemical properties that increase corrosion, and for water, the only I can think of is acidity. I'm also considering lowering the freezing point of water, and increasing its alkalinity (decreasing its acidity). I can think of a really cheap, simple, and eco-friendly means of doping the water so that it doesn't freeze, and also that it becomes more alkaline (and less acidic): baking soda. Someone agrees with me.

Granted, this greatly increases the electrical conductivity of the coolant, so any leaks in/near electronics are more hazardous. Also, this probably won't lower the freeze point as far as Halite/NaCl, but it'll do. (That'll do, pig. That'll do.) It should quickly/easily/completely dissolve in boiling water, and will only precipitate (become solid again) in a supersaturated solution (takes a LOT to supersaturate). However, you will notice deposits wherever the coolant is allowed to evaporate (i.e. top of PVC reservoir). Any deposits should be minimal, and fairly easy to knock off and dissolve back into the solution.

What do you think? It's cheap, it's effective, it's "green".
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post #118 of 340
I'm worried most about galvanic corrosion between brass and copper used in the water blocks.
post #119 of 340
nolonger you don't get galvanic corrosion between copper and brass, radiators are made out of brass.
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post #120 of 340
Then nevermind my previous post!
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