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post #121 of 340
Have any trees in the yard that will be near this piping ?
post #122 of 340
[QUOTE=Slink;8550252]I have to say, the thermal properties of water should do quite nicely, as long as your lines don't freeze. Provided you don't have many problems with corrosion, you COULD stick with water for a long time. However, I'm curious as to how the brass will hold up to water...
QUOTE]

Hasn't Romir said that he plans to insulate the piping going to and from the underground loop? Not to mention that the flowing water will keep it from freezing as well (assuming it will be running 24/7).
There is no problem with brass holding up to water...
Romir doesn't need to do anything out of the ordinary for a normal watercooling loop when it comes to preventing corrosion.
post #123 of 340
Tree roots will gradually grow towards the pipes and even grow into the pipes to get to the water. This of course is speaking long term, and depending on how much water is flowing constantly and for how long.
post #124 of 340
Then Cool the processor using tree Root System lol
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post #125 of 340
Quote:
Originally Posted by oliverw92 View Post
nolonger you don't get galvanic corrosion between copper and brass...
....because brass is any alloy of copper and zinc....
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post #126 of 340
Thread Starter 
I only have time for a quick update tonight:

Before it started raining I was able to get in a little practice at coiling the piping. Starting 1/3rd into the length is rough. Every loop requires turning over a 200 foot length of straightened pipe. Its very tempting to scrounge up a 4x8 sheet and two 2x4s to create a center channel to work in. Holding everything together and sizing the loops equally is awkward. This has become a waiting game so the inefficiency of this doesn't really matter. It's more engaging than my daily cardio at any rate.

I settled on a package of 24 6' Black Tubular Polyethylene Foam Pipe Insulation. If "This item normally ships in 5-8 days" holds true, then it will be the project's bottleneck. The 1/2" ID Norprene tubing shipped today, along with the impulse buysmall blazed plate heat exchanger with 1/2 barb fittings. At $45 shipped with the barbs it was too hard to pass up. Hobby boards is also processing my order now and I haven't heard from the vendor with the temperature sensors yet.

Above the ground loop testing is still on for this week. Wed & Thurs rain/sleet/snow be damned. The coiling and under the house piping can both be finished in a couple late afternoons. Insulating and protecting the holes into the house from insects will take a bit of thought.
post #127 of 340
Quote:
Originally Posted by Romir View Post
Insulating and protecting the holes into the house from insects will take a bit of thought.
Or just a bit of expanding foam & caulk.
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post #128 of 340
Quote:
Originally Posted by Romir View Post
Insulating and protecting the holes into the house from insects will take a bit of thought.
Foam and caulking should work for most insects. If you have any concern about rodents then metal screen or steel wool will normally stop them....

What's the plateHX for....?
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post #129 of 340
Thread Starter 
Trees: There are only some wild shrubs nearby in the narrow "ditch" the surface water drains into. The soil is saturated most of the year so not much has been able to grow and thrive in it. Certainly nothing with root systems that extend down a dozen feet to the side.

Corrosion: Aside from the PC barbs and blocks I won't have any mixed metal connections. The HDPE piping couplers are galvanized steel but only only be in contact with clamped down tubing. The colder quick disconnects have stainless steel in them, but without salt the steel in the loop will be fine. The rest of the loop is rounded out by PVC, brass on brass fittings, plus rubber and norprene tubes.

Loop freezing potential: Still wait and see at this point. There will approximately be a dozen or so gallons of water. I can state with 100% certainty that this loop will be MUCH safer than my house's old shallow iron water lines and uninsulated pex.

Entry points: Something went wrong with the water pipe entry points in this house before I moved in. The piping probably wasn't secured and might have loosened the foam's seal.

The plat heat exchanger is potentially for separating the PC and geo loop sooner rather than later. The directly connected performance will be better so its still the plan for now. If I have plenty of excess capacity in the ground I'll try and use it to claim some for climate control purposes.

I also might test it with that 600 foot deep, 12 inch wide well I previously mention. I could do an open loop on one of off the wells T valve to the garden hose and have water in the upper 50s flowing through one side of it.
post #130 of 340
galvanic corrosion will happen but

cars have aluminum heads and copper rads why arent all those cars stopt dead in thier tracks ?

well antifreeze has aditivs that mostly prevent galvanic corrosion if u chnage the fluid every yr

why are so many ppl hit with galvanic corrosion ?
1 they buy snake oil water cooling aditivs that containe ither harsh soaps
strong sulfurs or oxides to kill bacteria wich they doo but they will eat ur rad and block too

2 rads are made by soldering a buncha small pices together do do that they use flux and lots of flux , that flux is left inside long after its made and when u buy a new rad and hook it up to ur loop the flux disolves in the water and makes the water slightly acidic wich againe eats ur rads and blocks , so even if its new wash it out with plenty of water or chnage the water in ur loop a few times after puting in a new rad

so wash out ur new rads and use antifreeze it will kill bacteria and prevent galvanic corrosion some will say water works best for cooling maybe soo but 10%-40% of antifreeze in ur loop will kill all the swampy monsters
and keep ur loop from rusting away

and brass and copper will not react with eachother no matter what u doo
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