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post #131 of 340
Thread Starter 
Daily update:

It was mostly overcast all day so the piping was extremely uncooperative in forming coils when I got home. Its going to rain and snow tomorrow, followed by a high of 41 on Thursday with 18mph winds. The coiling will have to wait until this weekend when the wind calms down and the sun will be out.

With nothing else to do, I shimmied around the crawl space to measure the runs length. At 35 feet or so each way, its a bit longer than expected. There won't be enough left over R4 pipe insulation, so I'll have to buy some 3/8th wall R1.9 stuff. I'll use it in the "vertical" run into the middle of the house. The better insulation should go on the "horizontal" run along the side of the house where there will be more wind. I never found strong enough siding to seal off this hill side crawl space. The heavy winds here knocked a tree onto the previous incarnation of this house. I might as well get on with placing cinder blocks and reap the energy savings.

Finishing the crawl space plumbing is now my top priority. I picked up three 1/2" compact valves and four 3/4" ones from harbor freight tonight. With those in hand and the measurements recorded, I'll be able figure out everything else I need to buy at Lowe's tomorrow.

The in-line temperature sensors will somewhat hold up 100%ing the in-house sections of the loop. They're going to be mounted in 1/4" copper tubes, then inserted into 1/4" compression fittings, which will screw into a T. Actually, that's a horribly expensive way to do it fitting wise. It makes securing the water temperature sensors on the inside of some insulated tubing much more tempting!

Finishing the house section of the loop this week and then doing the coils this weekend seems like a realistic plan. I'm really looking forward to testing the flow of dual ddc 3.2s pushing the complete loop (minus the future pits depth of course).
post #132 of 340
THIS might be a bit off topic but what kinda insulation do u have beetween the floor joists ?
and have u considerd makeing a skirt for the house with some plywoood and some 2x4s will keep the wind from blowing right under the house and will limit energy loss

and ur stiff pipeing could be made very flexibel if u lightly hit it with a propane torch , i make pvc cond pipeing bend any wich way i want i just warm it up with a torch the flame just berly licks the pipe and i move the torch back and forth over a big area fast and the pipe will bend any way i want
Edited by shurik06_83 - 2/23/10 at 9:07pm
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post #133 of 340
Quote:
Originally Posted by shurik06_83 View Post
Galvanic corrosion will happen but cars have aluminum heads and copper rads. Why aren't all those cars stopped dead in their tracks?

Well, antifreeze has additives that mostly prevent galvanic corrosion if you change the fluid every year.

Why are so many people hit by galvanic corrosion?
  1. They buy "snake oil" water cooling additives that contain either harsh soaps, or strong sulfurs/oxides to kill bacteria (which they do, but they will eat your rad and block too!)
  2. Rads are made by soldering a bunch of small pieces together. To do that, they use flux--lots and lots of flux. That flux is left inside long after it's made, and when you buy a new rad and hook it up to your loop, the flux dissolves in the water and makes the water slightly acidic, which again eats your rads and blocks, so even if it's new, wash it out with plenty of water or change the water in your loop a few times after putting in a new rad

So wash out your new rads and use antifreeze--it will kill bacteria and prevent galvanic corrosion. Some will say water works best for cooling. Maybe so, but 10%-40% of antifreeze in your loop will kill all the swampy monsters and keep your loop from rusting away!

...and brass and copper will not react with each other no matter what you do.
FIXED. That may have been hard as hell to understand, but once comprehension is accomplished, there's a lot of good info in there! :-P haha


Quote:
Originally Posted by Romir View Post
"Daily update:
It was mostly overcast all day so the piping was extremely uncooperative in forming coils when I got home. Its going to..."

"With nothing else to do, I shimmied around the crawl space to measure the..."

"Finishing the crawl space plumbing is now my top priority. I picked up three 1/2" compact..."

"The in-line temperature sensors..."

"Finishing the house section of the loop this week and then doing the coils this weekend seems like a realistic plan. I'm really looking forward to testing the flow of dual ddc 3.2s pushing the complete loop (minus the future pits depth of course)."
Good to hear the progress update! Rock on, man. I'm psyched. Are you psyched? I'm psyched.
Edited by Slink - 2/24/10 at 8:14am
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post #134 of 340
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by shurik06_83 View Post
THIS might be a bit off topic but what kinda insulation do u have beetween the floor joists ?
and have u considerd makeing a skirt for the house with some plywoood and some 2x4s will keep the wind from blowing right under the house and will limit energy loss

and ur stiff pipeing could be made very flexibel if u lightly hit it with a propane torch , i make pvc cond pipeing bend any wich way i want i just warm it up with a torch the flame just berly licks the pipe and i move the torch back and forth over a big area fast and the pipe will bend any way i want
Pink panther, I thought about putting the piping along side of it but the efficiency loss (after the pc loop section) shouldn't matter much. The ground will absorb all the extra heat or cooling in theory.

Woods an option sure. At least one section needs to be easily removable to gain access.

I used the (pictured) propane torch today to stretch the heaters water line over a new equal sized fitting today. Goodbye leak. The heaters water pipes hole insulation problem is there's none below the house and the foam in the utility closet came loose. That will be be easily taken care of when I go back down there to install my piping.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Slink View Post
Good to hear the progress update! Rock on, man. I'm psyched. Are you psyched? I'm psyched.
Waiting is the hardest part.


Today's haul with a two foot long Lowe's receipt:



Not pictured are the 100' of 3/4" pvc pipes (plenty of extra) and 48' of the 3/8th wall insulation.

Pretty much everything except lengths of 3/4", 5/8", and 1/2" tubing has been purchased now. I'm still looking for a pressure gauge with a maximum reading lower than 100 psi. I also need some of the materials for the pump's sound dampened, and actively cooled housing. A small float switch that doesn't cost as much as the pump would be nice too.

Tomorrow I'll glue together the inside the house fittings and mount some scrap osb board to the utility closet's wall. The reservoir and filter are ready to be mounted. I might need to put the pump on a shelf above the floor to avoid a 90 degree connection to the temperature probe -> ball valve -> exit line through the floor. Leaving enough spacing so the tubing can flex upward should be the simplest way to handle that.

This is why I don't want to work outside tomorrow, even under the house. Friday isn't looking so good either.



The $45 brazed heat exchanger with 1/2" barbs also arrived today. I can use it if I ever want to separate my pc loop from the geo one. Or it could be used to create a second cooled loop for other devices with only a slight reduction in the geo loops flow.





I almost bought one of those $10 pumps at harbor freight last night. It could pump water through a radiator stuck outside the window to cool one side of this heat exchanger. I also had to resist buying garden house adapters to do that with an open loop with the cold well water. If you can circulate colder water through one side like that, you can easily lower your loops temperature without impacting the too flow much or contaminating your pc's loop. I'd really like to get a Dwyer digital manometer to test the pressure drop, but looking at the flow reduction on the King meter will do for now. All the 1-wire pieces have already made a mockery of my budget.

There's nothing new to report on the shipping status of the R4 insulation foam and the 1-wire components. I only really need the moisture and temperature sensor before digging the geothermal trench. Most of the pipe insulation could be installed on the shallow trench's pipe with the buried coils in the ground. The next week and weekend are supposed to be dry and warmer so I hope they arrive.
post #135 of 340
More updatez!!!!

I love these HUGE projects!
    
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post #136 of 340
Man... any watercooling project requiring (7) ball valves is just AWESOME!
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post #137 of 340
mom thinks you're an idiot for some reason...

but i support ya =D
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post #138 of 340
This is epic!!!!!!!!
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post #139 of 340
You sure you have all your marbles? I've never seen anything this crazy!
This is very impressive so far!
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post #140 of 340
Eco-friendly overclocking FTW!!!!!
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