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post #181 of 340
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slink View Post
You COULD dunk your rig in oil if you plan on cooling sub-dew-point.

Regardless, never forget the catastrophic powers of freezing water in lines. (I.E. Ice forms as a crystalline structure that expands, and as you know, destroys pipes, etc.) LoL good luck! Awesome work--it's good to see more progress. This should prove itself a very rewarding luxury.
Mineral oil? Nah, I like having some semblance of a lifetime warranty on the x58 classified motherboard and the double XFX one on the 5970. My systems been on an open bench and case fan-less since it was built in September, it seems to be doing just fine with passive air and waterblocks.

Those crystalline ice structures detach old sediment in my iron water supply pipe every time it gets cold. Bless the Culligan filter company.

Since the pumps under 75w now, with more load on it, I'm planning on running it 24/7. I don't want to use antifreeze (less flow, less thermal conductivity), and might not legally be able to if I extended the outside loop (buried mechanical fittings) as discussed in...

Today's update:

Coiling the sun warmed pipe was quite easy. Once the first few loops are formed with the correct height, they can then be stood up vertically making further coils easy to size and secure. The coiled up slack piping can simply be "walked" down the line to the work area and quickly sized up then zip tied. When the slinky assembly got too cumbersome to support vertically , I moved it and rested it on the side of my house.

Slack coils down the line, the smaller the better. (Don't uncoil the piping like I did. Also when you do, remove the tie straps one by one. They're staggered so each strap frees a shorter length of the piping.)



A bit over 20 feet of 3.8 feet overlapped coils. I didn't need to make the overlap that tight but directly connecting the loops like that was fast and easy. Some of the far right coils need to be undone to run the return line back along the coils to meet up with the trench to the house.



It hasn't rained in days yet water has collected in the bottom of my supply/return trench. This ground is going to be WET.



My first knife screw up in over a decade. Pro-tip: use wire cutters to remove tie straps. Now to keep my left thumb clean and dry for a couple days. That's what I get for cutting towards myself, on the LAST strap.


So anyway, going down the hill and losing half of my piping to non-coil use wasn't part of the original plan. Visually seeing that has got me thinking.

If I could start over, I would've spent more on a 500 foot 1" coil and possibly used 1" PVC under the house. The head loss would've been lower resulting in more flow at a lower velocity. That would be extremely helpful for running a loop like this off weaker a pump or two. 18 feet of 1/2" ID PVC or 4 feet of 3/8" ID has the same friction loss as 500 feet of 1" ID pipe. 3/4" (garden hose size ID) is the sweet spot for flow, flexibility, and cost. This is why I didn't go with small refrigeration tubing.

On the other hand, pipe insulation for 1 inch ID piping isn't as commonly available. Something could be cheaply hacked together for a short supply/return line and if only coming directly up into one room. My 5/8th walled insulation hasn't shipped yet, probably in the next two days.

Right now I'm strongly considering buying a $30 100' coil of 3/4" black pe water piping and using it in the trench to the house. That's 100 more feet of cooling, a huge percentage increase.

I'd couple the loops near the surface so it could be checked up on or fixed if it developed a leak. With such low pressure in the loop I'm sure it'll be fine. Black PE water lines are pipes are coupled with barbs and clamps at pressures multiple times higher.

The Iwaki is now using 73w with my PC's three water blocks restricting it. I still have 10 feet of 7/16th tubing going to my PC, which is causing some unnecessary restriction. The filter will definitely be removed later too. I'm already further down the pump's curve than I want to be. Still no leaks.
post #182 of 340
You should make links to each Real update =)

Link all the pages of progress on the first Page / First Post so people can easily find your stuffs, cus me lazy, nto want check every page =P
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post #183 of 340
the amout of pipe u alredy have if u put that under ground u can cool a server farm some ppl get really good results just droping 20 ft of pipe into a hole thats around 4 ft deep so u will have cold water no matter on what kinda load ur geting
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post #184 of 340
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StormX2 View Post
You should make links to each Real update =)

Link all the pages of progress on the first Page / First Post so people can easily find your stuffs, cus me lazy, nto want check every page =P
I was going to do that when I finished this weekend*, but now I'm not so sure if the insulation will arrive in time. Might as well do it now then.

There's not going to be much to report this week, outside of some initial 1-wire configuring. It's back to waiting now...

I did save some pictures to do an update or two with though.

*I'm still leaning towards having the trench dug this weekend and insulating/covering the little trench later.
post #185 of 340
shedding some blood, i like it. post a pic of the battle scar.
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post #186 of 340
Quote:
Originally Posted by StormX2 View Post
You should make links to each Real update =)

Link all the pages of progress on the first Page / First Post so people can easily find your stuffs, cus me lazy, nto want check every page =P
Not a bad idea, meguess.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Romir View Post
Those crystalline ice structures detach old sediment in my iron water supply pipe every time it gets cold. Bless the Culligan filter company.
HAH.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Romir View Post
It hasn't rained in days yet water has collected in the bottom of my supply/return trench. This ground is going to be WET.
Yucky mucky. Put your hip waders on, and tie a lifeline. ^_^

Quote:
Originally Posted by Romir View Post
My first knife screw up in over a decade. Pro-tip: use wire cutters to remove tie straps. Now to keep my left thumb clean and dry for a couple days. That's what I get for cutting towards myself, on the LAST strap.
Sunnuva... yeowch. Nexcare waterproof bandages are excellent if you can dry, then seal the cut. I've had good experiences with them, changing only every few days without antibiotic ointment.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Romir View Post
So anyway, going down the hill and losing half of my piping to non-coil use wasn't part of the original plan. Visually seeing that has got me thinking.

If I could start over, I would've spent more on a 500 foot 1" coil and possibly used 1" PVC under the house. The head loss would've been lower resulting in more flow at a lower velocity. That would be extremely helpful for running a loop like this off weaker a pump or two. 18 feet of 1/2" ID PVC or 4 feet of 3/8" ID has the same friction loss as 500 feet of 1" ID pipe. 3/4" (garden hose size ID) is the sweet spot for flow, flexibility, and cost. This is why I didn't go with small refrigeration tubing.

On the other hand, pipe insulation for 1 inch ID piping isn't as commonly available. Something could be cheaply hacked together for a short supply/return line and if only coming directly up into one room. My 5/8th walled insulation hasn't shipped yet, probably in the next two days.

Right now I'm strongly considering buying a $30 100' coil of 3/4" black pe water piping and using it in the trench to the house. That's 100 more feet of cooling, a huge percentage increase.

I'd couple the loops near the surface so it could be checked up on or fixed if it developed a leak. With such low pressure in the loop I'm sure it'll be fine. Black PE water lines are pipes are coupled with barbs and clamps at pressures multiple times higher.

The Iwaki is now using 73w with my PC's three water blocks restricting it. I still have 10 feet of 7/16th tubing going to my PC, which is causing some unnecessary restriction. The filter will definitely be removed later too. I'm already further down the pump's curve than I want to be. Still no leaks.
There's always next month... ;-P Interesting to see some numbers. Thanks for the excellent update.
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post #187 of 340
how much will this all cost?!

what do you hope to gain OP?
post #188 of 340
You're plan has a few flaws. You need to use the pump to pressurize not to sump.
Oh never mind. Never look at plans while your asleep.
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post #189 of 340
nice......


i was thinking of a similar mod a while back (but the missus refused ), i was planning on burying one of these 3ft down in the garden....



a domestic radiator....

attaching 2 pond pumps (flow / return) out by the rad, ultimately running a completely silent freezing cold rig..

there were problems with it though, the winter for one... frozen pipes is a real worry (no flow = melting rig)

& getting pups powerful enough for such a large loop while not being too much pressure & struggling to get through the cooling blocks...??

+1 OP...... very innovative
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post #190 of 340
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shurik06_83 View Post
the amout of pipe u alredy have if u put that under ground u can cool a server farm some ppl get really good results just droping 20 ft of pipe into a hole thats around 4 ft deep so u will have cold water no matter on what kinda load ur geting
I'm aiming for as close to zero saturation of the ground's cooling capacity as possible to have little or no delta coming out of the ground loop. It seems like such a wasted effort to dig a trench that's only as long as a two full bucket swipes. I showed the operator the coil length and he offered to do it this afternoon because it would be such a small job.

I've buried 25 feet of vinyl tubing in a shaded hole before. It had a double digit degree Celsius delta in the summer which was worse than pa120.3 indoors. It was only good for warming the ground because the heat was too concentrated and the sandy ground wasn't cool at three feet down.

I do think the current 11ish feet of coils would spectacularly cool my pc but whats another $40 bucks to have 66% more cooling? (That and a small 1.5 lbs of extra head loss.)

Quote:
Originally Posted by G|F.E.A.D|Killa View Post
shedding some blood, i like it. post a pic of the battle scar.
Accidental ones are un-cool though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by $ilent View Post
how much will this all cost?!

what do you hope to gain OP?
I'm still on budget for under $500. $150 of that was for an unnecessary filter, insulating the 60 foot (each way) run down the hill, and the PVC, fittings, and insulation to place the pump in the utility closet (cheap silence in the computer room, well worth it).

The main components cost much less than my PCs were.

Geo piping: $99 shipped (PA 120.3 + 3 yates & g3/8th adapters $155 shipped)
Pump: $102 shipped (Swiftech MCP355 w/ res top $120 shipped)
Res: $15 + $10 in fittings

The big expense would be renting a bobcat to dig a shallower but still effective 5-6 foot trench.

I'm aiming for 16-18c load loop water temperatures in august using only 70w for the iwaki pump. That's only about about 30w more than my current dual loop pumps and fans.
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