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post #191 of 340
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skunksmash View Post
nice......


i was thinking of a similar mod a while back (but the missus refused ), i was planning on burying one of these 3ft down in the garden....

a domestic radiator....

attaching 2 pond pumps (flow / return) out by the rad, ultimately running a completely silent freezing cold rig..

there were problems with it though, the winter for one... frozen pipes is a real worry (no flow = melting rig)

& getting pups powerful enough for such a large loop while not being too much pressure & struggling to get through the cooling blocks...??

+1 OP...... very innovative
Thanks for the kind words. The iwaki pump I found is readily available as a overstocked item for a fraction of the original price. It had enough head for any of these kinds of projects. The bios shutdown temperature controls have always work for me whenever I test a new board by unplugging the pump.

Just keeping the water moving at full speed and having larger ID pipes (for less head loss, and more water volume) would go a very a long way to avoiding freezing over.

I wouldn't mind trying that with an old heater core, a cheap harbor freight Chinese pump, antifreeze + a corrosion additive, and then a plated heat exchanger to keep the dirty loop separate. The trick would be burying it somewhere WET to avoid saturating the ground as much as possible.

http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...ml#post8576956
post #192 of 340
Quote:
Originally Posted by skunksmash View Post
nice......


i was thinking of a similar mod a while back (but the missus refused ), i was planning on burying one of these 3ft down in the garden....



a domestic radiator....

attaching 2 pond pumps (flow / return) out by the rad, ultimately running a completely silent freezing cold rig..

there were problems with it though, the winter for one... frozen pipes is a real worry (no flow = melting rig)

& getting pups powerful enough for such a large loop while not being too much pressure & struggling to get through the cooling blocks...??

+1 OP...... very innovative
IF u got 2 or 3 of them stript the 20 layers of paint off of them and drop them down in a hole atleast 4 ft deep and have them hookt up about 4 ft apart u should be good

but from thier age thier will be tons of crap inside so i will need a strong acid to get rid of that or leveave it juts dont mix the loops have them transfering threw a plate exchnager to ur pc loop
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post #193 of 340
Looks great man, I'm wondering if you use a rad in your room could you cool your room with this, probably not a good idea to have you computer on the same loop because of the added heat but would be interesting.
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post #194 of 340
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkknight512 View Post
Looks great man, I'm wondering if you use a rad in your room could you cool your room with this, probably not a good idea to have you computer on the same loop because of the added heat but would be interesting.
The ground loop shouldn't have any problems absorbing some heat from the house in that fashion. I'm keeping my super low restriction PA120.3s and will try it this summer. I'm skeptical about how effective they'll be. Selling them and putting the proceeds towards an efficient mini-split heating/cooling system might actually save more money in the long run.

The ground loop is going to be installed this weekend. Unless the excavator breaks tomorrow while moving human sized rocks. Something goes wrong quite often, and generally costs $1,000 to fix.

I probably won't have the supply/return pipe insulation, but it can be installed later with a little slack left in the line. It'll be interest to compare the heat load test results with the piping un-insulated and unburied vs the finished state.

Preserving the supply line's temperature from the ground loop to the PC (75 feet of piping away) is the crucial element.
post #195 of 340
I think I just came
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post #196 of 340
Quote:
Originally Posted by shurik06_83 View Post
IF u got 2 or 3 of them stript the 20 layers of paint off of them and drop them down in a hole atleast 4 ft deep and have them hookt up about 4 ft apart u should be good

but from thier age thier will be tons of crap inside so i will need a strong acid to get rid of that or leveave it juts dont mix the loops have them transfering threw a plate exchnager to ur pc loop
lol....i'd be using a new one



keep chatting Romir..... you know a fair bit about this sort of thing.

i work for a company that uses & rents out Excavators..... we have 4 diggers & 2 dumpers currently ....diggers(1.6t / 2.0t / 3.5t / 22.0t) dumpers (1.0t / 5.0t)

id be bringing one in to do my PC mod, but the things do break pretty easily, i find the tracks are most susceptible to problems..

what size in the machine your gonna be moving those human sized boulders with.??


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post #197 of 340
might want the preshurize the loop thats going in and keep it under preshure if preshure drops then u know a rock tore hole in the pipe

and the preshure will help the pipe from colapsing from the weight till the ground setels in
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post #198 of 340
Quote:
Originally Posted by shurik06_83 View Post
might want the preshurize the loop thats going in and keep it under preshure if preshure drops then u know a rock tore hole in the pipe
THAT would suck.
Quote:
Originally Posted by shurik06_83 View Post
...and the pressure will help keep the pipe from collapsing under the weight of dirt, 'til the ground settles in.
Extremely good point, could prove really important/useful. Rep+

Quote:
Originally Posted by Romir View Post
A: The ground loop shouldn't have any problems absorbing some heat from the house in that fashion. I'm keeping my super low restriction PA120.3s and will try it this summer. I'm skeptical about how effective they'll be. Selling them and putting the proceeds towards an efficient mini-split heating/cooling system might actually save more money in the long run.

B: The ground loop is going to be installed this weekend. Unless the excavator breaks tomorrow while moving human sized rocks. Something goes wrong quite often, and generally costs $1,000 to fix.
A: Cool. Literally.
B: BAHAHAHAhaha but seriously, I hope not.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Romir View Post
I probably won't have the supply/return pipe insulation, but it can be installed later with a little slack left in the line. It'll be interest to compare the heat load test results with the piping un-insulated and unburied vs the finished state.

Preserving the supply line's temperature from the ground loop to the PC (75 feet of piping away) is the crucial element.
Very interesting. 'twould be nice to see. Your curiosity is appropriate IMO.
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post #199 of 340
If the tubes are full of water and capped on the ends they won't collapse... liquid does not compress
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post #200 of 340
Quote:
Originally Posted by LiquidForce View Post
If the tubes are full of water and capped on the ends they won't collapse... liquid does not compress
Affirmative, for our intents and purposes.
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