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post #51 of 340
Quote:
Originally Posted by Romir View Post
I'm aiming more for a 15 foot trench with one long piece of piping in 50% overlapped coils, with two layers. Now that the piping's arrived I can figure out how many feet of its used per trench foot. 3/4" HDPE in 3 foot coil loops with 50% overlap uses 8 feet of tubing per foot. Since this Caterpillar 325 excavator has a wider bucket than that I'll have more like a dozen feet per linear foot of trench. Somewhere around a true 15 foot length trench could handle my coils in one layer, I'll look into this. The biggest problem will be getting the coils into the trench in an orderly fashion. Manipulating them with long poles is going to be challenging.



Just the radiator, effectively making one humongous cooler theoretically capable of removing well over 1000w at a 1 degree Fahrenheit delta. We'll see about that though...

Today's thoughts:

Getting the 1-wire system figured out and operation is going to be my biggest bottleneck. If it isn't worth strapping temperature probes to the tubes buried underground this could go a lot faster. I'm starting to convince myself the loop temperature will be so close there that it doesn't matter or the ground will throw them off. Buried in-line sensors are out of the question.

I could place only one sensor in the trench to get the loops soil temperature and only measure the HDPE pipes temperature in-line at its ends. If that's good enough, the loop could be finished in days with the sensors coming online later.

The piping coil arrived today, and the pump is in Richmond ready for delivery tomorrow. I'm fully committed to this if there are any doubts out there.


The coil markings. I have two fittings to jam into the ends but need to pick up the double clamps. At this "low" pressure they shouldn't leak. Proper fusion bonded connectors for HDPE piping is quite a bit out of the budget.


The Caterpillar 325 xtreme pc project tool.


Here's the four foot wide bucket with a cameo appear of my house in the top right. That corner is where my computers are and where the HDPE pipes will probably come up. The crawl space is several feet high on the side of the hill, so working under there will be easy.
That Cat will get the job done nicely. You might want to raise the thumb when you dig, it will get in the way. With that type of thumb, you will need two people. Use the bucket to hold the thumb and take the pressure off the brace, remove the pins and brace, it is heavy, then use the bucket to help lift the thumb up and lock it up using one of the pins. Watch your fingers. You also might want to start laying that pipe out the way you want it. It has a good memory but laying it out in the sun will help soften it up. Tip, stretch it out in the lengths you want tied to two stakes in the ground, and let it bake in the sun for a while. Then coil them into your shapes, zippy tie them and let them bake some more. Then get some more heavy zip ties, tie it all together, then you can sling the whole pipe assembly into the pit using the bucket. Use a nylon rope, tie a loop on the top of the sling, and hook it to a tooth on the bucket. It would be nice if you had an operator so he could lower you into the pit using the bucket. I would also get a few yards of washed mason sand to dress the pit, then to cover the pipes a few inches before you back fill, and take it slow back filling till you get a few feet of dirt on the pipe so you dont crush the pipe. I usually just take little quarter buckets at first, then once I get a third of the way filled, use the flat side of the bucket to compact the soil. Do another one third lift and compact again, and again till it is filled. Dont loose the extra dirt, pile it nicely on top as this pit will settle for about a year. You might want to measure and mark this on your plat, for your reference too. I have done similar things as this for ponds no less. It helps to regulate a constant water temp in them. Koi go mad crazy for it. Good luck and be safe. That 325 is unforgiving and it will win.

Oh, nice house. I like that style.
post #52 of 340
Go Virginians! Cool that PC!
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post #53 of 340
Quote:
Originally Posted by Romir View Post
That's essentially what I'm copying on a smaller scale, sans heat pump. I'd love to get a geothermal hvac system for this house, even only for the first floor. It would make a huge difference in the heating costs.

Edit: Here's a Droid in the bucket for a size comparison. I saw your sig which gave me more of a reason to post this.

NICE! I figured the concept was the same. Its a great idea.
post #54 of 340
I have to ask....all that tubing only for a CPU loop? I would throw everything into that loop that I could possibly put a block on
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post #55 of 340
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by trueg50 View Post
At least the cooling costs should be less (if you use AC), with the computers main power drawing components (CPU and what ever else you are cooling) having their heat evacuated outside into the earth.
Wouldn't it be a draw with the loss of winter heating though, which is needed even more. If the cooling capacity is superb with plenty to spare, I'll look into attaching my two pa120.3s and blowing air through them. They're conveniently the highest flowing PC radiators.

Quote:
Originally Posted by shurik06_83 View Post
i know u might of saide what kinda pipe u will lay in the ground but i dint see it my guess copper will work best but u will have to cover it very lightly as not to crush it once u have 1-2 ft of dirt on it let er rip

whats the dig going to cost u ?
3/4" high density polyethylene geothermal pipe with a .86 ID and SDR 11 sized wall. Its over ten times cheaper than similar sized copper.

I have access to the excavator from work and the operator is kindly going to help me out. He's actually been encouraging me to plan this instead of using a bunch of radiators with slow fans to get a quiet build with loads of cooling power.

Quote:
Originally Posted by .:hybrid:. View Post
So you gonna overclock that caterpillar to make it dig faster?
Does factory turbocharged count?

Quote:
Originally Posted by StormX2 View Post
Next step will be Installing Solar panels to Run the PC?

Or atleast enough to run the internal Fans =?
How about fan-less. The only noise coming from the motherboard electronics and the single 3.5" storage drive.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 88EVGAFTW View Post
I have to ask....all that tubing only for a CPU loop? I would throw everything into that loop that I could possibly put a block on
Cpu, motherboard, and gpu(s). I have a bunch of blocks for my low power pc that I'd like to silence, but the extra restriction worries me. In the end it will probably be best to split the loops and have the geothermal one cool submerged head exchangers from the pcs. Figuring out the most economical way to do that has held me up before so I'm avoiding that for now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ericld View Post
That Cat will get the job done nicely. You might want to raise the thumb when you dig, it will get in the way. With that type of thumb, you will need two people. Use the bucket to hold the thumb and take the pressure off the brace, remove the pins and brace, it is heavy, then use the bucket to help lift the thumb up and lock it up using one of the pins. Watch your fingers. You also might want to start laying that pipe out the way you want it. It has a good memory but laying it out in the sun will help soften it up. Tip, stretch it out in the lengths you want tied to two stakes in the ground, and let it bake in the sun for a while. Then coil them into your shapes, zippy tie them and let them bake some more. Then get some more heavy zip ties, tie it all together, then you can sling the whole pipe assembly into the pit using the bucket. Use a nylon rope, tie a loop on the top of the sling, and hook it to a tooth on the bucket. It would be nice if you had an operator so he could lower you into the pit using the bucket. I would also get a few yards of washed mason sand to dress the pit, then to cover the pipes a few inches before you back fill, and take it slow back filling till you get a few feet of dirt on the pipe so you dont crush the pipe. I usually just take little quarter buckets at first, then once I get a third of the way filled, use the flat side of the bucket to compact the soil. Do another one third lift and compact again, and again till it is filled. Dont loose the extra dirt, pile it nicely on top as this pit will settle for about a year. You might want to measure and mark this on your plat, for your reference too. I have done similar things as this for ponds no less. It helps to regulate a constant water temp in them. Koi go mad crazy for it. Good luck and be safe. That 325 is unforgiving and it will win.

Oh, nice house. I like that style.
The operator/owner is going to handle the job so I'm in good hands. He told me to warm and straighten the piping like you mentioned but we both hadn't considered zip tying coils together ahead of time. That is such a great suggestion that will help so much. THANK YOU. I was getting concerned about how to keep the temperature probe series wiring intact without going into the trench. A trench cave in on some contractor nearby and he was cut in half by the attempt to dig him out before he suffocated.

Coincidentally with this excavator, the operator has previously dug ponds for raising Koi. Clean, warmed "waste" water from phase change condensers were piped into those ponds to extend the fishes growing "season".

I previously forgot to mention that I'm located at the northern radius of the daily presses delivery area.
post #56 of 340
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post #57 of 340
Excited to see this!
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post #58 of 340
This is phenomenal, and I await news with baited breath.

Romir, it might be in your best interest to temporarily reinforce the trench walls once it is dug, to prevent collapse hazard. Sorry, I don't know the construction term, but I believe you can wrap the walls in soil netting and stake some lumber (or pipes, or ropes) to the trench floor every foot or so along the trench walls to support the netting in case of ground shift/settling (each lumber/pipe/rope running vertically). Each piece of lumber can be tied with 1/4" nylon rope to stakes, about as far away from the trench as the trench is deep, or as close to that as you can manage without complicating things.

I hope that didn't make me sound silly, and I hope more that it made lots of sense. I'm psyched to hear more about this project. As previously mentioned by others, this project of yours could have multiple applications, provided you don't overload the thermal discharge capacity of the geothermal loop system.

I've considered cooling entire PC labs this way, and using it for air temperature regulation as well (as it is usually employed, when used at all). Unfortunately, I am not as knowledgeable in the way of calculating so many physics aspects. Kudos.
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post #59 of 340
subbed, i have access to similar machinery so maybe it'd be a good investment instead of an internal rad
post #60 of 340
This has raised more than my attention. Sub'd
    
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