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[Official] - The OCN Google SketchUp Thread! - Page 4

post #31 of 670
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by radodrill View Post
Ditto on using Pro-E; I love it



Edit: also made this thread official

Yay official

Quote:
Originally Posted by GOTFrog View Post
Just a question, how do you guys make your models, like motherboard psu rad etc.?
For the motherboard:

Find a picture of the motherboard you are going to model, make sure the picture is looking down on the top of the board:



Like that. Draw a square 12" x 9" in sketchup. Go file -> import. Change the settings to import as texture and find your motherboard picture. Then import and click on the square you made to set that as the texture. It is going to be the wrong size, so get the select tool, right click the square, hit texture then position. This bit looks confusing, but you just need to work out how the manipulating works yourself. Moving it around is pretty easy. The handles are pretty easy to work out (the coloured pins). The green one is the one you want. This one rotates and scales the picture. After positioning, click off the square to exit positioning mode. Now go around with the circle tool, drawing circles in all the motherboard mounting holes and then deleting the centers. Once you have done that, get the push/pull tool and extrude the whole board UP (not down) 2mm. Now go to http://scc.jezmckean.com and download as many models as you can that will work on your motherboard, e.g. RAM slots and CPU socket. For my first motherboard i also downloaded a board someone else had made and copied things like the PS2 and SATA connectors. Most things are to scale, so you litterally just have to bring them in and drop them in place. Now you need to start making things on the board. Grab your circle tool, find a capacitor, draw the circle, then use the push pull tool to make the capacitor. You should see the texture on the motherboard is projected onto the top of the capacitor. Do this for everything on the board! You will need to add materials to the side of things like chips, USB headers etc.

Quote:
Originally Posted by radodrill View Post
With any 3D drawing/modeling, you decompose the part into simple features (e.g. extrudes, revolves, rounds, etc) and combine them sequentially to create the model.

When I made my radiator model in Pro-E, I first extruded one side rail of the main part of the rad, then mirrored it to get the other side. After that I made the octagonal cutout and screwholes for one fan location, grouped them, and patterned that group along the length of the side rails. Next I modeled one of the tubes (going between the end tanks) and patterned that across the width of the rad. Then I modeled one of the individual fins as a shell and patterned that across the RAD. Subsequently I did the end tanks as extrudes, cut the mitered angles, and rounded all the edges. All that remained was to cut the holes for the barb locations.

I don't know if Sketchup has mirroring or patterning tools, but they sure come in handy in Pro-E
SketchUp has a duplicating modifier key, which is awesome. Select the tool you want, like the move tool, then hit alt and you should see a plus sign appear by the move tool. Now when you click and move, it will duplicate that object. Same applies for the rotate tool and some others.

To mirror, i personally use the scale tool and type in -1 as the scale in whatever axis i am mirroring in.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sirrush View Post
Man your Sketchup models (especially those rendered ones) make anything I've done look like crap. Oh well, guess I'll just need to practice more, and start actually making use of groups/components/layers. I have a very crazy design concept I'll post here when I'm satisfied with how it looks...
Of course, after viewing this thread it makes me feel inadequate at drawing.
Don't feel like that, everyone has their strengths. SketchUp is really easy to use, anyone who is good at it has just spent a bit of time on it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GOTFrog View Post
man Rado, that sounds extremely complicated, I think Ill leave my drawing without objects, I now have 3 panels done, only the back and under motherboard. Probably will never get to see the light off day But I'd love to be able to do that.
GOTFrog i think you are under the impression that you need to make everything yourself! Take a look at the links in the first post of this thread, in particular, http://scc.jezmckean.com. This is like Mecca for computer sketchup people


Quote:
Originally Posted by GOTFrog View Post
I'm just starting this so it really sounds extremely complicated, now gimme a pair of plier, a tester and whatever else I need and I'll repair you phone line and DSL in no time.
Do you do cable?

Quote:
Originally Posted by radodrill View Post
The hardest is the first few minutes or so getting used to how the app works; but once you've got that you can pick it up very quickly. At least that was the case with Pro-E, I never did figure out Sketchup.
Yeh, i'm sure if anyone put some time into sketchup they can get it, even my dog!


I am deff gonna do a beginners tutorial today
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post #32 of 670
:O perdy xD nice thread x) subed xD i just kinder started with sketchup
    
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post #33 of 670
Thread Starter 
Thanks liighthead

Will update the op in a bit with some more links etc, and will then crack on with preparing a beginners guide to sketchup.
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post #34 of 670
Sketchup is awesome, I used it to model my build for the case mod competition. I can't post the pics, obviously, but within 2 days I was able to make the model look almost exactly the way I wanted.

The tutorial videos google posted REALLY do help! Make sure you take the time to watch them. Using the Push/Pull tool to make the chair really got me started on this.
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post #35 of 670
Thread Starter 
I agree, the google video tuts are great. Unless you get one with a weird accent...

Tutorial incoming
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post #36 of 670
Thread Starter 
Setting up and Navigating SketchUp


One of the things most people do wrong when starting Google SketchUp is not set up the program correctly. This isn't their fault, they don't know how to use it yet! So here is a quick guide on how to set up SketchUp for what I think is the optimum layout. Even if you think you know how to use SketchUp, I really recommend reading this!

NB: I have a 24" screen, so having loads of little windows around isn't a problem. On a laptop, however, this setup may not be as appropriate.




First things first, when you open SketchUp for the first time, it asks you to select a template. I personally prefer the Product Design and Woodworking - Millimetres template, and i will always work in mm.



Ok so here is the SketchUp window after you install it the program. SketchUp may auto open the Components window.



First thing to do is open some windows up! Click Window in the top menu bar, then click Entity Info. Repeat this for Components, Layers and Materials.



Your SketchUp workspace should now look like this!



You may notice in the previous pictures i have loads of different tools to you in the tool bar. We are now going to set up the optimum toolset. Right click the tool bar and click Customize Toolbar.



Big scary window! You can drag and drop these tool shortcuts onto the toolbar. Drag them into the toolbar until yours looks like mine in the photo above. Then click 'Done'.



One thing that makes SketchUp models look very 'sketchy' and often amateur are the thick profile lines. You can turn this off by going View -> Edge Style and unticking profiles. You will now have nice thin lines.



You need to make yourself familiar with the 'Camera' drop down menu. This is the most useful drop down for navigating SketchUp. In particular, you need to understand how to change view points by clicking on 'Standard Views' and also change between Perspective and Parallel Projection. I nearly always work in Parallel projection when modelling. It allows you to effectively switch into 2D mode - if you go into parallel mode then change the view to the top, your model will have no depth or scale. The picture below outlines the differences between Parallel and Perspective when looking in a '3D' view.



If you imagine looking ontop of the square on the left, the similar points on the bottom face of the square would be perfectly inline with the points on the top face of the square, whereas in the picture on the right, there would be perspective making them look futher away/smaller.



You can also change view points using the toolbar. These buttons change the viewpoint.



These buttons are navigation tools. The two on the left are the ones your really need, since you can zoom in and out with your scroll wheel. The blue lookaround tool rotates the camera, whilst the hand pans the camera wherever you want.



One last utility, which isn't really a navigation tool, is the measuring tool. I don't use this a huge amount, I just use the line tool and look at the bottom right hand corner of the screen for the distance. The measuring tool looks like a tape measure. Simply put, you click the start point, click the end point and it tells you the distance between!



Once you click the end of the line to measure, SketchUp leaves a marker line. This can be used for lining components up etc and does not actually affect your model.


So thats the end of this beginner's tutorial, I hope this helps!
Edited by oliverw92 - 6/12/10 at 9:45am
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post #37 of 670
Thread Starter 
Snapping Points, Modifiers and Manipulating

One of the most common issues people have with SketchUp is lining points up. These issues can all be solved with snapping points and modifying keys. A snapping point is a point that the mouse 'snaps' to when you move the cursor near it. In SketchUp these appear as yellow, green, blue and purple dots.

Light Blue Dot - Midpoint of a line

Dark Blue Dot - Middle of a circle (not always)

Green Dot - End of line/interception/point on a line

Purple Dot - On a line

Yellow - Snapped to interception of axes


There are also snapping axes - if you click and start dragging a line out parallel to the green axis, you will see your line turn green, and likewise for other axes.



First of all, make sure you are in Parallel Projection! In the picture above, I have taken the line tool and first hovered over the interception of the green, blue and red axes.



When the yellow dot appears, click then drag out the line parallel to the green axis. The line will turn green.



Another issue people have is making a line a set length. Most people will have realised by now that there is a little box in the bottom right hand corner that displays lengths and information about what you are drawing. What most people don't realise is that you can manually type in these lengths. Start of your line, then just click it down at any length. Before doing anything else, type '40' and hit enter. The line you just drew will automatically become 40mm. Then hit escape to stop drawing.



Now that you have manually typed in 40mm for the line length, SketchUp dynamically works out you are drawing 40mm lines, so sets up a snapping point at 40mm for your next line. Get your line tool, click at the end of the line we just drew, then drag it down parallel to the red axis. At 40mm, you should find a snapping point - this is sometimes invisible (does not show a dot).



Do the same for the other axes, completing the square.



Now say we want to draw a circle in the middle of the square. There are two methods i use:

If the object is a square or a rectangle, you can simply draw lines from each corner and then draw a circle on their intercept.



Using the green snapping point, i drew the circle, then typed '8' to make the circle have an 8mm radius.



The other method is better in my opinion, and shows more knowledge of the program.

Start out by click at the place we first started on this tutorial, the intercept of the axes, with the line tool. Then drag the new line along the old line until you are around the middle. You should notice the line snap to a blue dot in the middle of the old line. This is a snapping point. Click here.



If you now hover the mouse over the middle of the line we just drew on, there will now be a green snapping point (we had to do the last step to create a point here - the blue snapping point only appears when drawing lines). Start a line from here.



Drag the line out parallel to the red axis until you are around the middle. Your line should be a thin red line at this point.



I am now going to introduce you to the locking modifier key. Whilst the line is red, hit and hold the shift key. If you now move your mouse around, you will see that the line is locked on the red axis, whilst you can move your mouse anywhere and the end of the line stays at the same level as your mouse. If you combine this with the previous method of finding the midpoint of a line (the blue dot locking point) we can find the centre of the circle! Put your mouse on the line perpendicular to the one you drew the line from and find the middle snapping point. Click to put the line down.



You now have a point you can draw your circle from, as shown in the picture above.



Then delete the centre and the line you drew.



We are now going to learn about another modifier key, the duplicate modifier. First of all, double click the face we just made to select it all.



Get the move tool (hit 'M') and snap it to the middle of the bottom line. Then hit the 'alt' key. You should see a + appear next to the move cursor. This means that when you move the face it will create another and move that one, instead of moving the original. The original will stay where it is.



Move it out wherever you want. You can also type in the distance to move, the same as if you are drawing a line.



Now it is time to learn how to use the rotate tool! There are also snapping points when rotating, which I will talk about in a minute. First of all, get the rotate tool out and snap onto the middle of the left hand side.



Click, then move the mouse to the opposite side and snap to the middle of that line.



Now move the mouse. The face will rotate around. You will notice there are snapping points whilst you are rotating at multiples of 45 (45, 90, 180 etc). You can also type in the distance to rotate, like you can type in how far to move, how far to draw a line etc.



In the rotation we just did, you may have noticed that the rotate tool was blue. This signifies that it was rotating on the blue, or Z, axis. You can rotate on any axis you want (red, green or blue). Switch to a front view (Camera -> View -> Front or use your shortcuts in the toolbar - see the first tutorial if you don't know about views!). Make sure you are in Parallel Projection. You should now be looking at a 2d drawing, like the picture above.



If you get the rotate tool out, you will see it is green. Click on the left end of the face, then click on the right. Now snap to the 90 degree rotate mark, or type it in.



Grab the lookaround tool and rotate the viewpoint round so you can see it!



The last manipulation to talk about is Scaling and Reflecting. Double click the face to select all of it. Now hit 'S' on the keyboard to get out the scale tool. 'Handles' will appear all over the object - these are points you can click on to scale the shape in anyway you want.



Grab the top right handle and bring it in. Click somewhere, then type 0.5 and hit enter. The face is now precisely half the size it used to be.



Another use of the scale tool is reflecting. Click the top centre handle and drag it vertically down. Click, then type -1.



The face is now mirrored below!




To summarise this tutorial:

Snapping points

Light Blue Dot - Midpoint of a line

Dark Blue Dot - Middle of a circle (not always)

Green Dot - End of line/interception/point on a line

Purple Dot - On a line

Yellow - Snapped to interception of axes


Modifier Keys

alt - duplicate the current object - works with move and rotate tools.

shift - lock line onto an axis - works with move, line and scale tools.
Edited by oliverw92 - 6/12/10 at 9:45am
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post #38 of 670
+ rep and sub'd. I'm ready to try this, I'm downloading it now. I've been using blender but I wasn't spectacular at it.
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post #39 of 670
Thread Starter 
Thanks, glad it is helpful
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post #40 of 670
Blender does much better with curves and curved surfaces. For everything else, I prefer sketchup (not animating of course).
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