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post #41 of 54
could it possibly be that your 1600lph pump is too powerfull and pumps water through the waterblock too fast for it to absorb the heat? maybe you should try it with your small 250 lph pump and see what temps you get. hopefully this helps
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post #42 of 54
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roxter
could it possibly be that your 1600lph pump is too powerfull and pumps water through the waterblock too fast for it to absorb the heat? maybe you should try it with your small 250 lph pump and see what temps you get. hopefully this helps
I considered that point and tried the smaller pump to no hope. Even worse yet when I moved house and the AC unit it sprung a leak and is now dead . I could either change the oil in the compressor and run the latest gas and turn it into a direct die unit or just ditch it and try again with a new unit. Decisions decisions.......
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post #43 of 54
well, i think you should just ditch it and go for a new unit. btw, how many BTU's was the last one, because i have heard of like 5,200 BTU a/c units that cool the water to about -30. and i'm sorry to hear that the pump idea didn't work
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post #44 of 54
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not sure how many btu's it is but it says on the plate it has 1500 watt cooling power. The thing is pretty old and rusted up a bit so its hard to see what is really going on. It seems to be pretty heavy duty as an older AC unit is built. Considering going down the propane path, it should run in the compressor no worries I think. Need to do some tooling soon to get the show on the road, best I be starting a thread of the work Im am about to embark on. Cheers to the crew that have read and helped me on this little idea of the chiller, pity it hasnt been a success but surely it was going to get very close to being very capable of a 24\\7 cooling solution. For me so far it has been the TEC and failed and now the chiller failed but maybe just maybe the next idea could be a winner............................................ .if this doesnt work Im going to throw the thing on the road in front of a truck"" lol"" and then plug the playstaion back in.................we will see soon enough. stay on target
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post #45 of 54
Kilowatts x 3414 = BTU/h

Your's is a 5121 BTU/h (5,100) unit
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post #46 of 54
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by PetrolHead
Kilowatts x 3414 = BTU/h

Your's is a 5121 BTU/h (5,100) unit
excellent so I am assuming that will be plenty powerful enough then. Maybe too much and could sourse a smaller and cheaper to run compressor maybe. I will start with the one Ive got for now and see how things pan out, need to get changing the oil first.
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post #47 of 54
Well it depend's.

Where is the leak?

If the compressor's knackered then just get a new one, try to replace it like for like but if you want to opt for a smaller compressor then that should be OK.

If you want to achieve lower temp's then make sure you get a bigger condenser aswell as compressor, this will increase the capacity of the system and help it hold better temp's aswell as it's obvious function of condensing the gas into a liquid so it can be metered into the evap by the capillary tubing.

If your going to change the gas then you'll probably need to change the cap. tubing, depending on what gas is in the system just now.

What gas is it, R22?, R134a?

You can change to R402a from R134a without altering the cap. tubing but if it's R22 then you'll need to alter the cap. tubing.

Also, when/if you cange the size of the compressor and condenser then you'll need to lengthen the capillary tubing.
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post #48 of 54
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The compressor seems to be in good nick, its quiet and the system was charged with R-22. The leak in the line was a pipe going into the condenser which I have now broken clean off for either repairs or just a rebuild of some sort. I have measured the compressor and it will fit into a standard case with the condenser on the side. I am going to try and mount the whole kit needed into a case and see if it fits together then go from there. It would be nice to have the whole system in a case with just a tube coming out for the cpu cooling. Im not sure how long (far) you can run these pipes to what ever you are cooling but surely they can be reasonably long. How much cooling could I possible loose through longer pipes to the CPU?? Having the R-22 could cause a problem but Im thinking propane will fill the hole for me?? or am I getting confused with the propane thing........maybe another refridgerant.
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post #49 of 54
You could use propane, i'm not sure if anything would need to be changed.

The high-side pressure would have to be higher and i think you wold need to use a synthetic oil but that should be about it.

Using longer lengths of pipe shouldn't make much of a difference in temps if they are insulated correctly and the system is tuned properly.

As for the leak, was there a hole in the pipe, could you acctually see the hole?

If so you could have just brazed a small piece of copper over it to cover the hole and re-charged the system, i know it's a bit ghetto but i would work.
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post #50 of 54
Looks your gonna do what I did, click the link in my sig.
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