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Big Water SE - weird pump issue - Page 3

post #21 of 39
its not a silly question bro....btw, the plate i am talking about is above this plate on top of the pump...there is a very small plate with only one screw...thats the one and the way u r saying is correct....
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post #22 of 39
Hi Folks,

For what it's worth, the original BigWater and the later BigWater SE (with 5.25" drive bay tank) have different pumps.

It sounds like Cyrix is describing the older BigWater pump.

HTH, and stay cool!
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post #23 of 39
Thread Starter 
That makes sense because I've scrutinized mine : and I wasn't able to find the small plate.
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post #24 of 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by DrDeville
Hi Folks,

For what it's worth, the original BigWater and the later BigWater SE (with 5.25" drive bay tank) have different pumps.

It sounds like Cyrix is describing the older BigWater pump.

HTH, and stay cool!
does that mean i made a complete fool of myself?

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post #25 of 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by cyrixMII300
does that mean i made a complete fool of myself?

lol basically no worries, your just trying to help.. The bigwater 1st was fool proof, I would take it over a SE..


@Z1, Dont remove the plastic plug while pumping, you will have 0 pump pressure and water will stop flowing (bleeding the pump is a good idea, only when the pump is off!).. Also, How tight did you make your connections to the pump? The connections should be tight enough to say on there... just make shure you have them connected correctly..
    
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post #26 of 39
Thread Starter 
It took me 1 hour and around 35 times start/stop (for around 5 seconds each) and also slightly tapping the pump for it to work and start the flow !
I gradually added coolant to make it reach the "High" level, then I left the tank cap open until all the air was out and I closed it.
Wowza I tightened the connections until I was unable to turn them anymore by hand/fingers. They're pretty tight (I think they have touched the other end of the connection) but I didn't use a tool like a wrench or something.

I'm now happy to announce the following:
Please keep in mind I installed my radiator on the table completely outside my case.
The case still has two 120mm fans running (1 exhaust and 1 intake).
I have been running my system with water cooling for the last 2 hours or so with the following test and temps for my non-overclocked cpu:


Idle Temps Inside Windows
Mobo temp: 31C
Cpu temp: 24C

Load Temps Inside Windows Running 1 instance of Prime95 (In Place Large FTTs)
Mobo temp: 32C
Cpu temp: 31C

More updates soon about temps once I start taking this baby higher.
Thanks for eveyone who helped !!


**Edit:
First update (CPU Overclocked to 3.6 GHz):
Load Temps Inside Windows Running 1 instance of Prime95 (In Place Large FTTs)
Mobo temp: 34C
Cpu temp: 38C
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post #27 of 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by wowza
lol basically no worries, your just trying to help.. The bigwater 1st was fool proof, I would take it over a SE..


@Z1, Dont remove the plastic plug while pumping, you will have 0 pump pressure and water will stop flowing (bleeding the pump is a good idea, only when the pump is off!).. Also, How tight did you make your connections to the pump? The connections should be tight enough to say on there... just make shure you have them connected correctly..
Thats odd, I removed the cap a few times to keep filling and it kept pumping. I also thought that there was positive pressure inside the tank to keep the flow going also. As long as the fluid is above the "OUT" port, your ok. Due to the design of the fill port, its impossible to get all the air out of the res tank. I don't think that matters though. Ohh yeah, don't tip your case forward while it's running because you will start sucking air from the tank when the liquid moves forward. Made that mistake a couple times.


Ok, lets see some pics Z! Nice temps.
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post #28 of 39
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post #29 of 39
that looks awesome man....and now to push the limits....

dont mean anything by it other than that i would love to see u break the 4.0GHz barrier with that thing....really its capable to do that and its awesome feeling when u finally do it....

it will definitely prove a point and if u can do more than 4.06GHz with stability then that will challenge me to go and improve further....

go get em man.....
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post #30 of 39
Thread Starter 
I would love nothing more than to break the 4GHz barrier as well.
However I have a slight problem... my mobo.
You see, in order for me to go over FSB 224 I had to start fiddling with the PCI-E frequency. I have it at 108MHz now.
If I want to reach 3.8GHz I have to set it at 111MHz.

I just know that the max safe PCI-E frequency for NVidia based cards is 105 and for ATI based cards it's around 110.

I also know that Sata starts giving problems once the FSB goes over 240 unless you connect it to a locked sata port (I have 4 ports on my mobo but I have no clue which one is locked).

So I'm not sure I should take my PCI-E and/or FSB frequency any higher... thoughts ?
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