Overclock.net › Forums › Case Mods & Cases › Other Hardware Mods › 120mm Gentle Typhoon - Vinyl Dye Project
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

120mm Gentle Typhoon - Vinyl Dye Project

post #1 of 33
Thread Starter 
So I'm working on my first mod project and first posting here at OCN. I've tried to read the guidelines about formatting and content so please, if I violate a standard or commit any cardinal sins, MNiceGuy is the one who made me do it. Now, onto the project.

I've built PC's for over 16 years and I've loved every minute of it. I have a wide assortment of parts in my basement that I have accumulated a lot of experience with. Out of all the personal projects though I've never taken the time to get into modification. Reading the forums here inspired me to give it a go to make something truly my own. I've got an i7 on a Classified Motherboard right now and I want to make the case fans match the color scheme. I know Enermax has some fans that already have this but I wanted something of my own. I thought about trying to modify the noctuas I have installed now, but felt that trying out on the typhoons was probably a better idea since I had more of them. This is where my project begins.

This is the case fan I have :



I am attempting to custom color the fan blade to a shade of red to better match the look of an EVGA Classified Motherboard. I've read a little bit online about different processes and I just don't think paint is what I want. So I'm trying to look into a process of modifying high performance fans yet making them match my aesthetic needs. This desire is what lead me to start this project.

Here are my materials :



I had to scour the area to even find someone who knew anything about Vinyl Dye. I happened to stumble into someone at an auto parts store that knew what I was trying to accomplish. He was the manager there and he'd done some custom work on touching up vehicle interiors where the conditions were a little different. He suggested I try this product :



Close-up of the fan with all the pertinent model information :



It was my goal to change the cosmetic appearance without diminishing reassembled product quality. Since I had to remove the sticker to get the job done, I wanted to heat it up first so it would not develop any creases or stretch marks. I took my time and slowly peeled the label back by lifting at an almost horizontal angle. I did not pull the sticker back like peeling a banana. This process took long enough that I reheated the sticker after I was halfway to make sure it remained warm enough to let the adhesive relax a little.





Now that the sticker is out of the way, I had to remove the C clip from the back of the pin. I used a set of precision flathead screwdrivers to separate and push the clip back. I should warn you that I wasn't using eye protection at the time and the clip luckily shot up and only struck me in the forehead. I managed to listen carefully and hear the approximate location in the living room where it landed so I could narrow my search. I would strongly suggest anyone else attempting to do this wear some kind of eye protection. I know... rookie mistake.








Removing the wire support clip was a simple task. It is held in place by a small tension tooth on the opposite side. A single screwdriver push and each tooth was released.







I then began to use masking tape to protect the areas I didn't want any dye to reach. I covered the rear electronics of the fan housing and tried to cover the rear of the blade. My first attempt did not provide a solid seal before cutting the tape. I decided to let the pin poke through and I would place a second piece of tape to cover the pin itself. It is my intent to pain the wires and connection to see what impact the dye has. I could replace the molex end and sleeve the cable if this doesn't work well.



First tape method with bad seal on the sides :



Much better seal with the second method :




This was as far as I got last night. I've got an area setup to paint the blade tonight. I've been told that vinyl dye is the tool of a patient man. It is much thinner than paint and usually requires several coating procedures to reach the desired effect. It has to fully dry between coats though, so I am going to take my time and see what it takes. I'll take pictures at each step of the way as I paint the fan, the wires and the connector.
Levidian
(13 items)
 
  
Reply
Levidian
(13 items)
 
  
Reply
post #2 of 33
Nice pictorial of the dismantling process. Look forward to seeing the rest
post #3 of 33
very nice work.

Can't wait to see the finished fan.
Raiden-GT
(21 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 3570k GIGABYTE GA-Z77X-UD5H  VisionTek HD7970 - 1050/1500 Samsung16GB (4 x 4GB) MV-3V4G3D/US 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
OCZ Vertex 4 (VTX4-25SAT3-256G) - 256gb  Hitachi Deskstar HD3200 - 2TB (x2) Samsung HD103SJ F3 - 1TB (x1) Hitachi Deskstar 0F12450 - 3TB (x1) 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Asus Blu-ray Burner BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Thermalright Venomous X + San Ace H1011s Windows 7 Professional - x64 Samsung 2693hm - 26" LCD 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
19" Wide Screen LCD Corsair K90 Vengeance K90 - Cherry MX Reds Corsair HX850 - 850W LIAN LI Lancool PC-K62 
MouseMouse PadAudioAudio
Logitech G700 Fellows Microban Cloth Yamaha RX-V657 Energy 5.1 
Other
Lamptron FC-5 
  hide details  
Reply
Raiden-GT
(21 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 3570k GIGABYTE GA-Z77X-UD5H  VisionTek HD7970 - 1050/1500 Samsung16GB (4 x 4GB) MV-3V4G3D/US 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
OCZ Vertex 4 (VTX4-25SAT3-256G) - 256gb  Hitachi Deskstar HD3200 - 2TB (x2) Samsung HD103SJ F3 - 1TB (x1) Hitachi Deskstar 0F12450 - 3TB (x1) 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Asus Blu-ray Burner BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Thermalright Venomous X + San Ace H1011s Windows 7 Professional - x64 Samsung 2693hm - 26" LCD 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
19" Wide Screen LCD Corsair K90 Vengeance K90 - Cherry MX Reds Corsair HX850 - 850W LIAN LI Lancool PC-K62 
MouseMouse PadAudioAudio
Logitech G700 Fellows Microban Cloth Yamaha RX-V657 Energy 5.1 
Other
Lamptron FC-5 
  hide details  
Reply
post #4 of 33
glad to have ya here at OCN! looks like a good first mod! i haver a few GT and depending how yours turn out i may do this to mine!

good luck!
Rock Solid
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 860 4.4ghz @ 1.38v eVGA P55 FTW MSI 5850 2x2gb Corsair xms3 
Hard DriveOSMonitorPower
320GB WD Win 7 ultimate 24'' Acer P244W 750W ThermalTake Toughpower 
Case
Corsair 800D 
  hide details  
Reply
Rock Solid
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 860 4.4ghz @ 1.38v eVGA P55 FTW MSI 5850 2x2gb Corsair xms3 
Hard DriveOSMonitorPower
320GB WD Win 7 ultimate 24'' Acer P244W 750W ThermalTake Toughpower 
Case
Corsair 800D 
  hide details  
Reply
post #5 of 33
Ya can't wait. I love my 2 GT AP15, they're so quiet and perform so well.
~|Nanpa|~
(15 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
|A8-3870k 3.5Ghz| |Gigabyte GA-A75-UD4H| |Onboard 6550D -_-| |Samsung 30nm Low Profile 2133 Cas9| 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
|Corsair Force GT 90GB|WD 820GB| |SamSung BluRay| |Stock Heatsink -_-| |Win 7 Ultimate x64| 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
|Samsung S27A950 120Hz 3D| |Microsoft SideWinder X4| |CorSaiR HX650| |Open TechBench|White LeDs|PurPle UV| 
MouseMouse PadAudio
|Microsoft SideWinder X8| |SteelSeries Diablo III| |OnBoard| 
  hide details  
Reply
~|Nanpa|~
(15 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
|A8-3870k 3.5Ghz| |Gigabyte GA-A75-UD4H| |Onboard 6550D -_-| |Samsung 30nm Low Profile 2133 Cas9| 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
|Corsair Force GT 90GB|WD 820GB| |SamSung BluRay| |Stock Heatsink -_-| |Win 7 Ultimate x64| 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
|Samsung S27A950 120Hz 3D| |Microsoft SideWinder X4| |CorSaiR HX650| |Open TechBench|White LeDs|PurPle UV| 
MouseMouse PadAudio
|Microsoft SideWinder X8| |SteelSeries Diablo III| |OnBoard| 
  hide details  
Reply
post #6 of 33
Thread Starter 
Well, the painting went pretty easy. I had a few learning curves to overcome on this project but even through a few fudges I was able to come out with what looks to be a spectacular finish. First, I'll cover the lessons learned :

No matter how much you think you've shaken the can enough, shake it another 60 seconds before beginning. The directions say to shake it for a full minute before starting. I found I had to shake it for a full 5 minutes before starting and it worked great. The black came out the first time like a firehose. I could see spatter coming out the nozzle while it was airborne headed to my beloved chassis. In the end, it did "bubble" up so to speak in the back but in an area that wasn't of much concern. When I did the front I took the full 5 minutes before starting and had little issues.

One key point, is NEVER stop moving the spray once you start. It tends to want to spray just the propellant in the can with no dye. I had issues trying to keep the spray consistent even though I was following the directions to a T. It seems that this has a high degree of technical skill in its application. Almost an art form all its own.

I have not had a chance yet to install it in a system and test resonance. My dad is in the hospital so I want to visit him before it gets too late in the day. I'll hook it up tomorrow evening though and post my results. Here is a pictoral of the fan as it was painted in stages :





Inside picture after the first coat on the front. I have not applied a coat to the back yet and wanted to show how little a single pass really covers. It is somewhat hard to tell at a distance. My closeup pictures may show a little texture, but the blade has the texture by default, the body is most likely do to my fire hose incident on the first pass. Even that turned out well.










Now I wanted to show it to an original fan unmodified to really make the difference stand out :





This is the molex connector's worst side :



The wires did not look like they worked well at all. Aside from the section I haven't touched since I had tape over it, the cable looks actually pretty good from any regular distance. Only when really close-up does the coverage look terrible. My wife, whom is quite a perfectionist, couldn't see the colors at all from 2 feet away.



I did a spin test by hand and it feels every bit as smooth as it did originally. We'll see if there's any instability at the higher RPM's.
Levidian
(13 items)
 
  
Reply
Levidian
(13 items)
 
  
Reply
post #7 of 33
Looks good so far!

I wonder if the application problems you had were due to the consistency of the vinyl dye or because you maybe had a bad can?

Once dried have you tried chipping any off to see how it adheres compared to paint?
post #8 of 33
Thread Starter 
The fan is whisper quiet. I have one of them that has a bit of a hum to it at full speed. Might have to swap it out and see if this helps improve its resonance any. I'll try another go at some of the others on Saturday.

From what I have gathered, painting the blade on the ground forced me to use the can horizontally. Which may have helped with the spray being more even. When I sprayed the black it was vertically against the wall. Might have had something to do with it. While the possibility exists I had a bad can, I am more inclined to lean towards my lack of properly keeping the can in motion. This product isn't really intended to be used in precision applications. It is meant to be used to recolor interior paneling and fabric in volume.
Levidian
(13 items)
 
  
Reply
Levidian
(13 items)
 
  
Reply
post #9 of 33
This looks great, but why is there a bottle of KY in the background in one of your pictures?
i7.5
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 920 D0 4.0GHz @ 1.20v EVGA x58 757 LE XFX Radeon HD 5770 Mushkin Blackline-1600 12GB 
Hard DriveOSMonitorPower
Intel X25-M G2 80GB SSD & Samsung F3 1TB Windows 7 Ultimate 64bit ASUS VW266H 25.5" Antec TruePower New TP-750 
Case
Antec 300 
  hide details  
Reply
i7.5
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 920 D0 4.0GHz @ 1.20v EVGA x58 757 LE XFX Radeon HD 5770 Mushkin Blackline-1600 12GB 
Hard DriveOSMonitorPower
Intel X25-M G2 80GB SSD & Samsung F3 1TB Windows 7 Ultimate 64bit ASUS VW266H 25.5" Antec TruePower New TP-750 
Case
Antec 300 
  hide details  
Reply
post #10 of 33
Thread Starter 
Every build log needs an easter egg! But how come no one noticed a full size original of Castle Greyskull!?!?!


I used what I learned to go back and paint 3 additional fans with spectacular results. I will get some pictures up before this weekend of the finished product compared to the original pilot. Let me tell you that the vinyl dye worked amazing.

First off, there was a huge difference in application when painting horizontally instead of vertically. It was a mistake to pain the fan chassis on the wall hanging like I did. It was much better to simply use the cap from a 1.75L of Captain Morgan as a standoff and simply spray it just like I did the blades. I had absolutely no bubbling at any point. And when a "droplet" would form, I just left it. It was absorbed into the housing by the time I would come back for another coat. It just soaked right into the chassis.

The experience really has me confident working with the product now. I have some Noctua's in line for the next vinyl dye project to see how well I can match the exact same color scheme. I expect them to be a bit less forgiving given the colors on the GT's was rather easy to manipulate. I'll start a new mod log for them when they arrive.
Levidian
(13 items)
 
  
Reply
Levidian
(13 items)
 
  
Reply
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Other Hardware Mods
Overclock.net › Forums › Case Mods & Cases › Other Hardware Mods › 120mm Gentle Typhoon - Vinyl Dye Project