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Water Distillation - Page 2

post #11 of 34
4/4/10 at 12:00am
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Earlier I went to Target and bought a water boiler (12.99) and a storage box to contain it. (6.99) I justified these purchases by math. Total price of 19.98 + tax = 21.57. Let's assume that my system is evaping 3 gallons a week. That comes out to 2.69 a week. (water plus tax) According to Windows Calculator and my brain this thing will be payed off in just 8 weeks. That's not a bad turnaround time for such an investment. Plus now I have a boiler for my tea instead of a microwave! So in my eyes the price of the boiler was negligible. I failed to take any pics until it was partially put together and running. The first thing I did was take the boiler and put a standoff on it to keep it out of the water.

If you have read any my other logs you can probably guess that I used an old Coke cup as the standoff...it's Styrofoam so no contamination. Sorry about the water in the pic - it was on at the moment

Now I know my cost effectiveness does not include power consumption or water bill. But I don't pay a monthly bill. I live in a dorm so that is taken care of XD. My place is expensive enough as is - I might as well get the best out of it!

To connect my power cord I drilled two 1/4 inch holes into the side becuase, as it turns out, 1/4" is just right for electrical prongs to stick through! So my boiler is "plugged" through the storage container and into a power cord.
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post #12 of 34
4/4/10 at 12:01am
for **** sake... take the money you would waste on building a distiller, and the money you would waste on running the distiller and cascade some cheap RO membranes... run in through a DI cartridge or two if you're really concerned... there you go... effectively pure water, powered my your local water pressure...
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post #13 of 34
4/4/10 at 12:24am
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Well the (to date) final release of my water distillation unit is out!



As you can see I tried several different orientations in different pics. The heatsink is, once again, that little Phenom cooler. Except here it's just to add preasure. I was having some problems with the condensation's drip location. So I used that to sink the level of the lid in that spot to make it drop off of that spot.

Now I just know everyone is trying to figure out those fans Those babies are my pride and joy. Rated for .25A at 100 volts they put out 400CFM, and I got SEVEN of them! WOOOOHOOOO!!!! I've got four of them wired together in my window for exhaust! I digress....

Eventually I took a second one and placed it in the empty space. Now I have 800CFM of airflow over this! It condenses very well


Final thoughts on this build - 1000watts of heat + 800CFM of air = a lot of win. We'll just have to see how this thing performs. Tomorrow.
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post #14 of 34
4/4/10 at 12:27am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LiNERROR View Post
for **** sake... take the money you would waste on building a distiller, and the money you would waste on running the distiller and cascade some cheap RO membranes... run in through a DI cartridge or two if you're really concerned... there you go... effectively pure water, powered my your local water pressure...
Just in case you weren't paying attention. I have put 8 dollars that I would not have spent at a later date for the items in this build. I do not pay for electricity or water. Can I build a reverse osmosis system for that cheap? Absolutely not. Besides the fact that I have a defective faucet that provides little to no pressure, along with the fact that I do not have access to a water source that I could attach such a system to. Thank you for reading all of my thread closely.
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post #15 of 34
4/4/10 at 4:58am
Distilled water is cheap. Honestly, there are few liquids cheaper. The reason is, they have these large distilling plants, where they can distil water in titanic quantities with little-no heat loss.
You don't have this luxury.

To boil ie distill water you have to heat it up to 100C. To do that (to your three gallons a week), assuming that water comes into your house at 10C, you need (18.92*4.2)*90 = 7152, so to heat up the water to 100C you need to put 7152kJ into your water.
Next, you have to actually boil it.
Water has a specific latent heat of 2290kJ/kg, so that's 18.92*2290=43326.8kJ
In total, that's 50478.8kJ going into the water to boil it. I'm not going to talk about the energy used to condense it, it'll be much less.

Now, 50478.8kJ is equivalent to 14.02kWh. That means that to boil it, you need to use an 14.02kW heating element for an hour, to boil your week's supply of water.
A kWh of electricity on average (in Texas) costs 12.41 cents. That's $1.74 electricity you'll be using each week, if the whole setup is 100% efficient. It's not. Heating water (ie kettle) is about 90% efficient, so you'll actually be using $1.93 electricity per week.
I'm not sure who pays the electricity, but if it's you or your dorm buddy it's still going to be pretty expensive, around $100 per year.
Edited by Cepheus - 4/4/10 at 5:01am
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post #16 of 34
4/4/10 at 5:56am
I know you said you don't pay for power, but someone does and stuff, so... Why not a solar still? Them are cool and quiet and cheep too. Google poped out a tone but this one looks good still

Is the still in your room, with the bong pumping out all that water vapor? Your going to rust your computer and house out

And my question: Does a bong need distilled? I know the industrial ones used as air conditioners here don't use distilled and the tap water they use is crap. We get sea shell sized calcium scales that plug up the shower and heavy metals too.
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post #17 of 34
4/4/10 at 11:01am
buy a good water filter and filter ur drinking water and have clean water to add to ur bong

u can install a inline water filter and set up a float valve like one would find in toilet rez and the system will refill it self with clean water all by it self

Naja did the float valve deal it workt grate he has pics somewhere and if u need help with it hes a grate guy and will help ya out
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post #18 of 34
4/4/10 at 12:52pm
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Hmmm....I wouldn't have a problem using filtered water in the this system except that water garbage, minerals, is in the water is going to build up as I compensate for the evaporated water.

After giving this whole build some more thought. I have to come to a conclusion that perhaps...just maybe....this was not my best idea

I started to do some research earlier this morning on water filters. I realized that, like Shurik said, I could throw in a inline water filter. I just have to find one that can handle enough CFM from my water loop. I'll do some more research and see what I can do. +rep to all good suggestions
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post #19 of 34
4/4/10 at 1:07pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cassanova View Post
Hmmm....I wouldn't have a problem using filtered water in the this system except that water garbage, minerals, is in the water is going to build up as I compensate for the evaporated water.

After giving this whole build some more thought. I have to come to a conclusion that perhaps...just maybe....this was not my best idea

I started to do some research earlier this morning on water filters. I realized that, like Shurik said, I could throw in a inline water filter. I just have to find one that can handle enough CFM from my water loop. I'll do some more research and see what I can do. +rep to all good suggestions
hit up home depot or lows they have huge selctions of inline filters and they have some that pull all the minerals and garbage out so u have no worrys and even if u give up on the progect u will still have a water filter for personal use
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post #20 of 34
4/4/10 at 1:08pm
I love how your solution was to build a distiller instead of just turning your fans down. That's true overclocking, right there. Just to satisfy my curiosity, you know that your evaporative surface exists to chill your water more than to disperse your heat, right? A jumbo cooler with huge fans will chill water faster, but once your reservoir temperature reaches the dew point, all that large surface area (or high airflow, in your case) is going to waste.

What would be interesting would be setting the fans on a temperature-driven fan controller so that they're on high while your reservoir temperature is above the dewpoint, and turn down once you've reached your end point.
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