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Water Distillation - Page 3

post #21 of 34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrDeodorant View Post
I love how your solution was to build a distiller instead of just turning your fans down. That's true overclocking, right there. Just to satisfy my curiosity, you know that your evaporative surface exists to chill your water more than to disperse your heat, right? A jumbo cooler with huge fans will chill water faster, but once your reservoir temperature reaches the dew point, all that large surface area (or high airflow, in your case) is going to waste.

What would be interesting would be setting the fans on a temperature-driven fan controller so that they're on high while your reservoir temperature is above the dewpoint, and turn down once you've reached your end point.
I was actually just looking at building a custom fan controller the other day - I already have most everything to build a controller circuit. (I'm to cheap to buy something I can build plus I enjoy making every component by hand)

The fans that I have on my bong definitely blow more air than is required. My volenti will actually keep everything cool without fans at all.

In keeping with the spirit of "experimental" I decided to see if I could make the still better. I noticed that the plastic was getting to hot, so I added fins made of duct tape. Now I know that duct tape does not have the best thermal conductivity... but it worked pretty well in this case. I can touch the lid comfortably now, and the vapor condenses much more readily. I think that I was able to produce half a gallon in about 3 hours. Now that's not the best. Or even reasonable. It's alright though. It was very interesting distilling water and now I have a kettle (Yay!) and a storage container - that I have to patch up
    
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post #22 of 34
keep tinkering try difrent things thats how alot of new things wer discoverd and i just personaly love useing lows or home depot as my modding suppy store

maybe i should start a lows/depot modding club
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post #23 of 34
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I would join in a heartbeat. I was just saying the other day how I always spend too much at the HD.
    
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post #24 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cassanova View Post
I would join in a heartbeat. I was just saying the other day how I always spend too much at the HD.
You and me both! I usually enter the Depot with a single item in mind, and end up spending at least four times that I planned to.

Wayne, you know that better than anyone else! (Wal-Mart, needed milk, got $80 speakers, need I say more?)
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post #25 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cepheus View Post
Distilled water is cheap. Honestly, there are few liquids cheaper. The reason is, they have these large distilling plants, where they can distil water in titanic quantities with little-no heat loss.
You don't have this luxury.

To boil ie distill water you have to heat it up to 100C. To do that (to your three gallons a week), assuming that water comes into your house at 10C, you need (18.92*4.2)*90 = 7152, so to heat up the water to 100C you need to put 7152kJ into your water.
Next, you have to actually boil it.
Water has a specific latent heat of 2290kJ/kg, so that's 18.92*2290=43326.8kJ
In total, that's 50478.8kJ going into the water to boil it. I'm not going to talk about the energy used to condense it, it'll be much less.

Now, 50478.8kJ is equivalent to 14.02kWh. That means that to boil it, you need to use an 14.02kW heating element for an hour, to boil your week's supply of water.
A kWh of electricity on average (in Texas) costs 12.41 cents. That's $1.74 electricity you'll be using each week, if the whole setup is 100% efficient. It's not. Heating water (ie kettle) is about 90% efficient, so you'll actually be using $1.93 electricity per week.
I'm not sure who pays the electricity, but if it's you or your dorm buddy it's still going to be pretty expensive, around $100 per year.
qft

except you got some of the math wrong (you're using 5 gallons a week rather than the 3 stated)

you also can't forget that condensing would also release 43326kj back into your room

thats going to be a warm room
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post #26 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by garbageacc3 View Post
qft

except you got some of the math wrong (you're using 5 gallons a week rather than the 3 stated)

you also can't forget that condensing would also release 43326kj back into your room

thats going to be a warm room
It's basically running a 70w heater continuously. It's not much, but it will probably be noticeable. It's a bit less than an extra computer.

Also, I didn't get the maths wrong, I merely used the first figure which seemed to be pretty accurate.
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post #27 of 34
i dunno, for the amount of mineral deposits you would gain over a years worth of water done by standard BRITA type drip filtration, you could just buy a $6-7 bottle of CLR and clean your **** once a year...
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post #28 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cepheus View Post
It's basically running a 70w heater continuously. It's not much, but it will probably be noticeable. It's a bit less than an extra computer.

Also, I didn't get the maths wrong, I merely used the first figure which seemed to be pretty accurate.
70w heater in summer makes a huge difference

also got to factor in increased evaporation rates in summer

though i'd guess there'd also be increased dissapation

but you'd also have to factor in increased inefficiency in condensation rate as well

well, you used 5 gallon, and then stated as 3 gallon in your post, kinda deceptive ninjaing i didn't say calcs wrong, just that 3 gallon =/= 18L

lol
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post #29 of 34
[QUOTE=garbageacc3;9017989well, you used 5 gallon, and then stated as 3 gallon in your post, kinda deceptive ninjaing i didn't say calcs wrong, just that 3 gallon =/= 18L

lol[/QUOTE]

oops lol
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post #30 of 34
Two thoughts for you, first use the cover for the pot and seal it up, you may even want to wrap in in some insulation. Heat on the outside of the boiling chamber is keeping your steam well, steam even after it is out of the pot. Seperating the heating portion from the cooling portion will help a lot. Even if it's just a divider in your container. Secondly, use some tubing for cooling the steam. With enough length, or a Radiator, you can coolit down and collect 100% of the steam generated. Copper pipe is best, but some of the plastics available in aisle 10 of your HD will work as well. Running the tube through a waterbath will cool the steam and preheat the water for the boiler. Watch some dukes of hazzard for reaserch on still design!
Edited by Duma - 4/16/10 at 6:04am
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