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[Official] Gigabyte GA-890FXA-UD5/UD7 Owners Thread/Club - Page 276

post #2751 of 4334
For what it's worth, I'm still using F6 and am having a fine time with it.

I'm still having high heat situations with this thing. An overnight video encode will cause the NB to hit 50C according to HW Monitor. I checked last night, and the heatsink is indeed that hot. The VRM section is causing the issue, and it looks to be a side effect of having 2 fans on the Hyper212. So, I can either find/borrow a moto tool, attempt my heatsink mods, swap in water cooling, or swap on the Noctua before, which cause the CPU to run hotter...or even swap motherboards, and deal with that garbage. I'm pretty convinced Gigabyte didn't design the heatsink for functionality, or anticipated heavy airflow specifically directed at the VRM/NB area.
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post #2752 of 4334
Quote:
Originally Posted by UnexplodedCow View Post
For what it's worth, I'm still using F6 and am having a fine time with it.

I'm still having high heat situations with this thing. An overnight video encode will cause the NB to hit 50C according to HW Monitor. I checked last night, and the heatsink is indeed that hot. The VRM section is causing the issue, and it looks to be a side effect of having 2 fans on the Hyper212. So, I can either find/borrow a moto tool, attempt my heatsink mods, swap in water cooling, or swap on the Noctua before, which cause the CPU to run hotter...or even swap motherboards, and deal with that garbage. I'm pretty convinced Gigabyte didn't design the heatsink for functionality, or anticipated heavy airflow specifically directed at the VRM/NB area.
1- Do you know that the NB can hit the 80ºC right?
2- I'm pretty sure that if you use the motor tool, the heatsinks will be damage and you will get really bad temps.
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post #2753 of 4334
Quote:
Any bios after F2 are completely [expletive deleted] for UD7, I bet there isnt many happy people, they will have half-dead boards trying to figure out the C1 loop issue. Both F3d beta + F3c beta kill it.
Can someone explain to me what that mean? its on the 1st post. Is there a problem with F3 bios? just the beta one right? stable release is ok?
post #2754 of 4334
Quote:
Originally Posted by saint19 View Post
1- Do you know that the NB can hit the 80ºC right?
2- I'm pretty sure that if you use the motor tool, the heatsinks will be damage and you will get really bad temps.
I'd made some entries a couple months ago about cutting and shaping heatsinks from old CPU ones. I would not be touching the stock onboard ones.

Yes, I know the NB can hit those temps, but I still don't think it's wise. The VRM section, however, is not designed for those temps that I've seen, and right around 50C or so, I start to see enough voltage fluctuation, and then I start getting minor errors, Prime will crash, video encodes will be broken, and it seems to have to do more with the chipset.

I'd checked for good contact before, and it's fine. The heatsink just flat out sucks, and isn't designed to dissipate enough heat. Pretty much the design depends on the rest of the components' ability to withstand high temps. To put that into perspective..it's hotter than my CPU runs.

I've mentioned before that 90C is 194F...pretty much where auto engines run their coolant at. 80 is 18F cooler...and that's not very much. It's great to see new designs come out, but the "stylish" stuff really should give way to functionality.
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post #2755 of 4334
I am with UnexplodedCow on this one Saint19... even if it could get that hot, it does not mean it should; 80º C is incredibly hot, even if within spec. Even when my CPU is at its hottest, my Northbridge usually gets up only to the low 50s. (Even at the height of summer, I do not think it has seen even 60º C.) Would I like it cooler than that, absolutely. Would I look into making custom sinks if it ran near 60º, without a doubt.
     
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post #2756 of 4334
Sorry, I was not saying that you should go until that temps, I thought that he don't know the max temp.
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post #2757 of 4334
I definitely know the max temp for the chipsets...however, the VRM section has no specified max temp. Sadly, the stock heatsink is lacking, and was obviously designed for style, and not function...the UD7 is better, but I still think its method wasn't the greatest, either..not enough surface contact for that huge heatpipe cooler.

I found an Enzotech copper VRM heatsink on Newegg, and it was said to fit the GA-870A-UD3 model board, which uses the same circuitry spacing as ours.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-016-_-Product

After a little more digging, I found a waterblock version, which should also fit (not confirmations, though). For the price, I'm going to likely pick up the water version, grab a NB chipset cooler, stick something on the SB for air cooling, and start a loop.

Link for the waterblock is below. There is also a copper version (non nickel plated):
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-054-_-Product


My goal at this point is modest, but will be growing. To start I'll be going VRM, NB, and CPU, likely going with a 2x120mm radiator, and D5/655 pump. Later I'll be switching the video card to it.
I have heater cores, but am feeling especially lazy lately. I even have an '87 Escort radiator sitting about. But it's used, and I don't want to risk any potential for corrosion. I'll check more prices, although I'm expecting a relatively expensive setup.
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post #2758 of 4334
Usually car radiators are overkill for cooling, and the heater core of something like an old Bonneville is sufficient. I will say that the thing that scares me most of any PC part is in fact the PWM cooling (especially considering how so many Gigabyte boards nuke themselves) and I do wish our cooling were a bit beefier. If you come up with a solution that is simple for the technically disinclined UnexplodedCow, let me know!
     
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post #2759 of 4334
I've always been one for overkill. Heater cores are a good place to start, too. I was going for the ready-made radiators out of laziness , as I priced things, and a heater core isn't any more cost effective vs. a double 120 radiator, since the latter has a mounting system pre made, and the heater core requires one to be created (not usually a problem if scrap computer cases are around). A compact car radiator, while overkill, would be ideal for having a quiet machine with plenty of room for overclocking. It would also be easy to set up outside the case, with some brackets to keep it upright. It would also offer very low restriction for the application.


Normally I'd just suggest extra airflow..that enzotech copper heatsink looks decent, though. A NB heatsink is the real issue, and I'd really say an old CPU heatsink (athlon XP or similar, small heatsink) would be enough. The problem is ultimately weight on the chipset. It's an open core design, and only has 2 mounting holes, so the chance for chipping or cracking the core is petty high with a heavier, tall heatsink (such as the mini tower chipset heatsinks). If a shim could be used or created, that would eliminate most of the issues, and avoiding spring-loaded push pins.

I was in the process of making things when my Dremel died. I'm currently looking at an industrial grade moto tool that should work better. Once I have it, I'll finish the cuts, try them out, and report how it goes. After that I'll try to get more ancient heatsinks, and modify them to work. I just need a moto tool

I can at least say a 423 P4 heatsink is an excellent place to start for both NB and VRM.
Edited by UnexplodedCow - 1/21/11 at 11:53am
Sovereign
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Sovereign
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post #2760 of 4334
Is F6 bios the best for o/c?
I'm still having trouble getting 4ghz stable.
Has anyone got it stable below 1.45v
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