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How (much) to tighten compression fittings

post #1 of 13
Thread Starter 
I'm using compression fittings for my new WC setup. I have three simple questions, hopefully with simple answers:

1. How much do I tighten the fittings to the waterblocks? All blocks have acetal tops (though the res is acrylic).
2. How much to I tighten the compression?
3. Should I have a firm grip on the bottom of the fitting when tightening the compression, so that it won't tighten the fitting even more and destroy the waterblock?

I'm generally a bit on the hard-handed side...
post #2 of 13
Screw the fitting onto the block as tight as you can with your hands, no need for pliers or anything. Then put the tubing on and then screw down the compression part as hard as you can with your hands as well. I just installed 6 of them, did exactly what I said ^^^ and not a single leak, the tubes are Very secure.

I really wish I would have bought compression fittings since I started water cooling in April 2009
Edited by 88EVGAFTW - 5/14/10 at 12:28am
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post #3 of 13
General consensus is as tight as you can by hand and then an extra 1/4 - 1/2 turn.
post #4 of 13
Tight by hand + half a turn is over tightening. I don't even think it is possible unless you exert a large amount of force. Just go hand tight and that is all you need to get it to work.
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post #5 of 13
I used hand tight and then about 1/8 of a turn extra but I was very paranoid about leaks.
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post #6 of 13
You would damage the tubing by tighetning more than hand tight. Hand tight already leaves the tubing slightly warped. I can't imagine doing half a turn after hand tight (by hand tight I mean really hand tight till your fingers hurt)
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post #7 of 13
So, the half turn bit is for normal fittings that have a wrench hex. If you are just doing compression fittings simply tighten them down with you hands, put the tubing on and then tighten the fitting down as well. If your fittings have a place for a wrench to tighten it, use your hand to get it down snug (no too much force) and ad a 1/2 turn with a wrench. If you are turning the fitting and you stall, which is followed buy a little popping noise and a sudden shift, stop tightening, you've gone too far and risk breaking the threads.
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post #8 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by 88EVGAFTW View Post
You would damage the tubing by tighetning more than hand tight. Hand tight already leaves the tubing slightly warped. I can't imagine doing half a turn after hand tight (by hand tight I mean really hand tight till your fingers hurt)
hand tight - to me - implies that you can undo it again easily by hand. Tight till your fingers hurt would definitely fall into hand tight + 1/4 to 1/2 a turn.

but yes i agree - tight as you possibly can by hand.
post #9 of 13
I agree with the hand tight part for fitting into block but for tubing into fitting, it really depends on the tubbing and fittings you use. Some will only allow you to screw the shell on half way and some will allow you to go all the way, I find the best way to do that part is screw it on as far as you can by hand then get a rubber coated wrench and turn it untill you cant see threads on the fitting anymore, this may not mean that its all the way down but with fittings like 3/4 OD bitspower compressions, this is the best it gets
post #10 of 13
Thread Starter 
Great, thanks. But when tightening the compression part (over the tubing), should I also hold the bottom part (screwed into the waterblock) to avoid over-tightening that?
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