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what exactly is a water chiller

post #1 of 21
Thread Starter 
i've heard descriptions, but i want to know what it is in detail and what u need to make one...sound a bit easier than phase change to set up
    
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post #2 of 21
Thread Starter 
ok i think i know, now i want url to place with really cheap air conditioners...
    
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post #3 of 21
well if you have any second hand stores such as value village or an amity type of thing where people donate old stuff you could pick one up. thats what i did, 15 bucks for a 6,000 BTU air conditioner. if you are thinking of building one you should really check out project cold by tuchan first, thats what got me inspired, really a great project if you are up to all the work involved.
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post #4 of 21
Building a Water Chiller is just like building a Phase Change system, if your building from scratch that is.

The only difference is the evaporator or lack of in a water chiller.

With Water Chiller's there are many different designs for the HX (Heat Exchanger), some are simple and some are complex.

The best thing about water chilling is that it can be easily done by taking a working Air Conditioning unit and placing the evaporator (look's like a large radiator) and placing it into the reservoir, where the liquid coolant is held.

Don't confuse the evap. in the Air Con system with the Condenser though, just put your hand up to them, the cold one is the evap.

When using a water chiller you must condensation proof your motherboard and surrounding areas just as you would when using Phase Change, you'll also have to insulate the tubing and water block.

Because the coolant is now below freezing you'll also have to put anti-freeze into the reservoir to allow the coolant to go below freezing.

Remember that you'll also have to use an approved pump, any good quality metal pump will do, plastic one's will just crack. It's the same case for the water block, you must use one with a metal top and your tubing must be capable of going below freezing aswell, Tygon R3603 is capable of going as low as -73c while staying flexible and not cracking.

If you have any question's feel free to PM me
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post #5 of 21
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by PetrolHead
Building a Water Chiller is just like building a Phase Change system, if your building from scratch that is.

The only difference is the evaporator or lack of in a water chiller.

With Water Chiller's there are many different designs for the HX (Heat Exchanger), some are simple and some are complex.

The best thing about water chilling is that it can be easily done by taking a working Air Conditioning unit and placing the evaporator (look's like a large radiator) and placing it into the reservoir, where the liquid coolant is held.

Don't confuse the evap. in the Air Con system with the Condenser though, just put your hand up to them, the cold one is the evap.

When using a water chiller you must condensation proof your motherboard and surrounding areas just as you would when using Phase Change, you'll also have to insulate the tubing and water block.

Because the coolant is now below freezing you'll also have to put anti-freeze into the reservoir to allow the coolant to go below freezing.

Remember that you'll also have to use an approved pump, any good quality metal pump will do, plastic one's will just crack. It's the same case for the water block, you must use one with a metal top and your tubing must be capable of going below freezing aswell, Tygon R3603 is capable of going as low as -73c while staying flexible and not cracking.

If you have any question's feel free to PM me
wow really thanks man....too bad i can only give you +1 rep at a time
i have WC that i built myself from scratch and i was gonna start phase...but this waterchiller idea seems to get similar sub-zero temps (up to -50 idle i heard) and its FAR easier to build...so ok this is a primitive list to get me started of what i think i need for this:
1. Air Conditioner (5000-10000 BTU, cheap of course )
2. Reservoir
3. Radiator? or not i dont think so but im not sure
4. Coolant
5. Dielectric Grease Spray
6. Waterblock
7. Pump
8. Tygon tubing
9.Antifreeze
but im kinda confused lol can you maybe give me a diagram (simple, maybe done in MSPaint) of what it is supposed to look like, arrangement of all parts and exactly how they are connected, exactly where they go in relation to each other, how everything is connected....im repeating myself sorry im a little nervous because i dont have a lot of money (i sell computers on eBay, but that goes to my pathetic little college fund (ill need all that i can come up with for med school), so i can supplement my many scholarchips with that money) and i keep 10% + all gifted money for computers....i dont want to screw up...id have to use the 400MHz SUN UNIX Workstation i found in the trash thats actually fast but has no way of connecting to the internet....no USB so DSL modem wouldn't work...anyway thats why im nervous...sorry but i need help
    
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post #6 of 21


This is Roxter's set up--you can see the AC unit torn open, the evap in the white plastic bucket and that's how it works--the thread is in Watercooling
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post #7 of 21
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by CyberDruid


This is Roxter's set up--you can see the AC unit torn open, the evap in the white plastic bucket and that's how it works--the thread is in Watercooling
however where are the tubes that go to PC (stupid question i kno, but just bear with me please)
again thanx
    
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post #8 of 21
well that picture was an early post and simply demonstrated the chiller part of the loop. The second half of the loop is basically like dismantling the radiator from your WC set up, adding some tubing, and putting it in that white plastic bucket with the evap.

However you would want to use an insulated container. It would need a coil more than a radiator honestly, and mant excellent points regarding this have been posted up by others in this thread linked here: http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ler-setup.html
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post #9 of 21
here is a very good waterchiller http://www.overclock.net/phase-chang...k-warning.html

scroll down to the bottom and its the post with the thermometer at -30C. That will hopefully help you out a bit. as you can see there is a fan blowing out the hot air from the condensor and the evap is put in a cooler most likely, and then insulated. what you need to do is rip open an old air conditioner and bend the pipes that go from the evap to the compressor. Be very careful when you are doing this to make sure you dont break any pipes and then plunk it in a tub of water and put it on for a few minutes. you should start to see frost on the evap pipes within minutes. when mine was in water without any antifreeze the water around the evap would freeze in about 5 minutes. and now i have -50C antifreeze in there at a ratio of 3 parts antifreeze and 1 part water and i'm still getting slush around the evap, now that is COLD. you should get pretty good results from this and its a very fun project for a cheap price compared to a phase change. BTW i strongly reccomend that if you use antifreeze you use plumbing antifreeze instead of the normal stuff as the plumbing antifreeze is non-toxic. still very cheap as i got my 4L bottle for just under 5.00$ anyway, look at my thread and maybe post some stuff. there is some VERY good information on there that i think you and I will both benifit from!
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post #10 of 21
http://www.overclock.net/faqs/70899-...-sub-zero.html

That's my Faq
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