Overclock.net › Forums › Intel › Intel Motherboards › Expert advice on P4P800-E before I do it.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Expert advice on P4P800-E before I do it. - Page 2

post #11 of 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by Taeric
I'm confident I can run a divider to get things over 250 MHz, but I'd really like to do it at 1:1. I'm on air cooling, with a vcore in the 1.500 to 1.525 range and load temp right around 50°C. If I can't resolve the RAM issue before the weekend, I'll just go ahead and run a 5:4 divider just to break 4.0.

Your load temps are a bit high considering you have four fans and your vcore isn't that high.

I'm running at 1.525v right now stable with a 5:4 divider. I've actually only had this board for about a week or so so I haven't really seen how much futher I can push it. BTW what settings do I have to adust to get my divider lowered (to 1:1) cuz the lowest I've managed to get it is 3:2 ?
post #12 of 35
Thread Starter 
Ho.......leeeeeee........crap. I don't know what the heck happened, but I'm one happy overclocker today. I just ran for over 16hrs with Prime95 + Folding + a few hours of movie encoding (to really tax the cpu) at 4.0GHz with 1.425 vcore!! Not sure exactly which step or what did it, so let me tell you what I did.

I dug up my old 20GB hdd and loaded up Windows on it. I figured I might as well reload setup defaults in the bios (mostly as a goof, didn't think it would change anything), then redo the settings I usually change, and start back at 200fsb w/1.4v Vcore, then slowly go up again. Well I did that, got up to around 3.9ish, then had to step up to 1.425 Vcore to make it to 4GHz, stable for a few hours, which I could never do before. At this point I was already surprised, cause before I needed 1.5V to hit 3.9.

So I figured I'd put back my sata hdd's and see, thinking for sure it would fail now, since all I did was reset bios to default and change to an IDE hdd, then my overclock got awesome. To my freakin amazement, I was still stable at 4GHz with my sata drives installed . Just now I got done running it for over 16hrs like I said above and it's still going strong. Right now I'm getting 100% load temps about 43C and idle 36. ONE thing I did different this time in bios was I left it on auto for the memory timings (currently 3-4-4-8, I'll try tightening them later), but I had messed with loosening timings before and it made no difference, even with a divider running.

I just don't understand it, is it possible that resetting my bios to defaults and starting my OC over again somehow "fixed" something?? Do you think maybe all the setting tweaking, voltage changes over and over and volt mods, better heatsink so better temps, etc etc somehow made the bios have a brainfart that just wouldn't go away?? I'm baffled and yet so damn happy at the same time . After I know I'm rock solid at 4.0GHz for a few days, I'll try to bump up a lil. Taeric, have you tried reloading setup defaults and restarting from 200fsb 1.4V since you got your typhoon? Maybe you should give it a whirl. I would say don't just go back to 200 1.4v, but actually do the "load setup defaults option" first, then redo your settings and start your oc all over again from 200fsb 1.4. I have this weird feeling resetting the defaults did something good.



edit--- One thing I'm sure helping me too is the vcore mod, my droop is almost non existent, usually something like 1.41-1.42 idle to 1.4 load). I don't think it fixed my problem here really cause I did it months ago and haven't been able to hit 4GHz, but I think it helps when running lower vcore since it doesn't go really below 1.4. Someone without the mod may go from like 1.41 idle to maybe 1.34 or even lower under load, killing the oc I guess.
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
I7 920 D0 @4GHz Asus P6X58D-E evga gtx260 896mb core216 superclocked 6GB Kingston HyperX 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
4x WDRaptor 74G Raid0 BenQ DW1655 Win7 Home Premium 64bit Samsung 226BW 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech G15 Seasonic S12 600W Antec Nine Hundred Logitech G7 
Mouse Pad
S&S Steel 
  hide details  
Reply
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
I7 920 D0 @4GHz Asus P6X58D-E evga gtx260 896mb core216 superclocked 6GB Kingston HyperX 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
4x WDRaptor 74G Raid0 BenQ DW1655 Win7 Home Premium 64bit Samsung 226BW 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech G15 Seasonic S12 600W Antec Nine Hundred Logitech G7 
Mouse Pad
S&S Steel 
  hide details  
Reply
post #13 of 35
How long have you been running it? In it's entirety.

R
Roped In
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Core i7 2600k P8P67 Pro Rev (3.1) @ B3 XFX Radeon HD 6950 XXX 16GB G.SKILL Ripjaws 9-11-9-28 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
2 X Callisto Deluxe 25nm 60GB Plextor PX-B910SA 4x Blu-ray DVD-RW Win7 64 2 x Samsung 275T+ 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech G15 Corsair HX10000 Antec 1200 Logitech G7 
Mouse Pad
Splatter Game Pad 
  hide details  
Reply
Roped In
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Core i7 2600k P8P67 Pro Rev (3.1) @ B3 XFX Radeon HD 6950 XXX 16GB G.SKILL Ripjaws 9-11-9-28 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
2 X Callisto Deluxe 25nm 60GB Plextor PX-B910SA 4x Blu-ray DVD-RW Win7 64 2 x Samsung 275T+ 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech G15 Corsair HX10000 Antec 1200 Logitech G7 
Mouse Pad
Splatter Game Pad 
  hide details  
Reply
post #14 of 35
well, these boards weren't designed to go past 3.2 anyway...that might be what's holding us all back from the 4.0 mark

I get stuck around 3.9 too, but I guess my case doesn't get that good of air flow, so it's 3.8 with the side on.

is there a link for that vcore mod? I'd like to eliminate my droop please!
post #15 of 35
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ropey
How long have you been running it? In it's entirety.

R

Been running what, this rig you mean? Well the p4 I've had for like 2yrs, just lapped it about 3-4 months ago I'd say. The mobo is about 4 months old I think or so, used to be p4p800se (in gf's rig now). The ram is also only a few months old. Been overclocking since my join date, so about 6 months I guess. Not sure exactly what you're asking?
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
I7 920 D0 @4GHz Asus P6X58D-E evga gtx260 896mb core216 superclocked 6GB Kingston HyperX 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
4x WDRaptor 74G Raid0 BenQ DW1655 Win7 Home Premium 64bit Samsung 226BW 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech G15 Seasonic S12 600W Antec Nine Hundred Logitech G7 
Mouse Pad
S&S Steel 
  hide details  
Reply
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
I7 920 D0 @4GHz Asus P6X58D-E evga gtx260 896mb core216 superclocked 6GB Kingston HyperX 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
4x WDRaptor 74G Raid0 BenQ DW1655 Win7 Home Premium 64bit Samsung 226BW 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech G15 Seasonic S12 600W Antec Nine Hundred Logitech G7 
Mouse Pad
S&S Steel 
  hide details  
Reply
post #16 of 35
I have found that there is a point in time when you gain a more maximal overclock from a CPU. My first P4C @ 2.4GHz gave me 3.2 for six months and then 3.3 and after a year and a half I was finally able to get it to 3.4GHz. I was never able to make it to 3.2 in the beginning without erroring out on Prime95. After the year and a half I could make 24hours clean dual instances of Prime95.

R
Roped In
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Core i7 2600k P8P67 Pro Rev (3.1) @ B3 XFX Radeon HD 6950 XXX 16GB G.SKILL Ripjaws 9-11-9-28 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
2 X Callisto Deluxe 25nm 60GB Plextor PX-B910SA 4x Blu-ray DVD-RW Win7 64 2 x Samsung 275T+ 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech G15 Corsair HX10000 Antec 1200 Logitech G7 
Mouse Pad
Splatter Game Pad 
  hide details  
Reply
Roped In
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Core i7 2600k P8P67 Pro Rev (3.1) @ B3 XFX Radeon HD 6950 XXX 16GB G.SKILL Ripjaws 9-11-9-28 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
2 X Callisto Deluxe 25nm 60GB Plextor PX-B910SA 4x Blu-ray DVD-RW Win7 64 2 x Samsung 275T+ 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech G15 Corsair HX10000 Antec 1200 Logitech G7 
Mouse Pad
Splatter Game Pad 
  hide details  
Reply
post #17 of 35
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tomasro
well, these boards weren't designed to go past 3.2 anyway...that might be what's holding us all back from the 4.0 mark

I get stuck around 3.9 too, but I guess my case doesn't get that good of air flow, so it's 3.8 with the side on.

is there a link for that vcore mod? I'd like to eliminate my droop please!
There's a sticky in this forum that can tell you how to do it, plus you can find lots of stuff on other sites too about how to do a volt mod. But where to solder is a different story, links on this forum don't seem to be entirely correct for the droop mod, not for the E deluxe anyway.

One thing I'd like to point out, cause maybe an admin should change it? The heading of that sticky says p4p800e deluxe and p4c... droop mod. I can't find anywhere in that thread at all about where to solder for the p4p800E deluxe specifically. In that thread, in his first link, the pic on the left is correct, for the p4p800, p4p800se, and p4p800 deluxe, but NOT for the p4p800e deluxe. The rest of those links and that thread is for the p4c board.
All the p4p800 boards (except the E deluxe) are the same as far as the pcb layout, so the mod is the same for those boards, I did it on a p4p800 and an SE and the mod was exactly the same. But the E deluxe is a different pcb layout than all the previous p4p800's, so the circuitry around the chip for the vmod is all different, and so are the solder points then of course.

I remember I had to look around when I did the mod, but I finally found pics of the solder points. I had a hard time finding it, but I found a pic for you I attached. Found it on a French forum through google, alot of the other links that had to do with this mod are dead now, so that's the only place I could find a pic.

This pic is correct though, I researched it before when I did the mod, at multiple sites, and this is exactly where I soldered it. Worked like a charm . Just follow directions easily found on the net about how to do it, but these are the points you need to use for the E deluxe. But careful these connections are extremely close and small, and you need to be very cautious of other components nearby also. It would be easy to destroy your board if you're not careful, especially if you don't know how to solder. Very small solder tip and a steady hand would be very useful for this as well. So would a multimeter to test continuity after, so you can make sure you didn't bridge the two points with solder, since they're so close.


----This chip is located right next to the cpu socket btw, on the opposite side from your ram. Depending on your heatsink you may have to remove it, to make soldering easier and/or possible.

You can use the two red spots, or the 2 green spots. The left red one is the same connection as the left green one, the right connects to the right. I chose to use the red points on the sides of the component, either will work. I used a potentiometer set to 29k, one leg to each of the red points and there ya go. (Potentiometers have 3 legs, from end leg to end leg is full value, 50k for a 50k pot. Then from middle leg to one end you get whatever you set it to, 28 or 29k in this case, then from the middle leg to the other end you get the rest, 50k - 28k = 22k.) You will need a meter to do this mod correctly. But I guess you could just buy a 28k resistor and solder it on and not have to have a meter, though I'd still recommend it.
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
I7 920 D0 @4GHz Asus P6X58D-E evga gtx260 896mb core216 superclocked 6GB Kingston HyperX 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
4x WDRaptor 74G Raid0 BenQ DW1655 Win7 Home Premium 64bit Samsung 226BW 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech G15 Seasonic S12 600W Antec Nine Hundred Logitech G7 
Mouse Pad
S&S Steel 
  hide details  
Reply
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
I7 920 D0 @4GHz Asus P6X58D-E evga gtx260 896mb core216 superclocked 6GB Kingston HyperX 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
4x WDRaptor 74G Raid0 BenQ DW1655 Win7 Home Premium 64bit Samsung 226BW 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech G15 Seasonic S12 600W Antec Nine Hundred Logitech G7 
Mouse Pad
S&S Steel 
  hide details  
Reply
post #18 of 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by RoscoeMcGurk
edit--- One thing I'm sure helping me too is the vcore mod, my droop is almost non existent, usually something like 1.41-1.42 idle to 1.4 load). I don't think it fixed my problem here really cause I did it months ago and haven't been able to hit 4GHz, but I think it helps when running lower vcore since it doesn't go really below 1.4. Someone without the mod may go from like 1.41 idle to maybe 1.34 or even lower under load, killing the oc I guess.

Thats awesome that you got over 4ghz. Weird what happend though since all you did is reset the bios !!! Hehe I'm tempted to go reset mine now and try it out tooooo !!!

I guess those mods are whats allowing you to get 4ghz at such a low voltage.

I'd need to brush up on my soldering before I attempt one of these mods but well done to you.
post #19 of 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by RoscoeMcGurk

You can use the two red spots, or the 2 green spots. The left red one is the same connection as the left green one, the right connects to the right. I chose to use the red points on the sides of the component, either will work. I used a potentiometer set to 29k, one leg to each of the red points and there ya go. (Potentiometers have 3 legs, from end leg to end leg is full value, 50k for a 50k pot. Then from middle leg to one end you get whatever you set it to, 28 or 29k in this case, then from the middle leg to the other end you get the rest, 50k - 28k = 22k.) You will need a meter to do this mod correctly. But I guess you could just buy a 28k resistor and solder it on and not have to have a meter, though I'd still recommend it.
I'm interested in doing this mod, let me make sure I understand you correctly. I pick 2 points (either the 2 green or the 2 red). Then I solder on my 2 wires (with my 28k vr) to the 2 points I chose. Am I correct?

Did you do any other mods to this board ? It really sucks having to run such a high voltage so I really wanna get that down. Do you have any pics of your board so I can see it after the mod.

P.S. I've done soldering on a few xboxes but never on pc hardware so I wanna make sure I do this right.
post #20 of 35
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by gunner14
I'm interested in doing this mod, let me make sure I understand you correctly. I pick 2 points (either the 2 green or the 2 red). Then I solder on my 2 wires (with my 28k vr) to the 2 points I chose. Am I correct?

Yes that's correct, you chose one or the other, the green ones or the red ones. The left red and left green are electrically the same point, same with the right. You can test this with a meter even if you want, I did and there's continuity so I can confirm the pic is right. I guess you probably could do something like the red one on the left, and the green one on the right if you wanted. Basically one leg on the left, one on the right, whichever way you do it.

I don't have a digital camera so no pics. You can find plenty of pics around of this mod on a p4p800 or p4c800, the only difference here is where you put them. If you've looked, you'll notice that all the circuitry around this chip is different than those other boards, the pic I attached is for the p4p800e deluxe only. Other pics around like in the forum here are for all the other p4p800 series boards. Like I said just follow directions easily found for these other boards, then just change where you solder the points. Get a couple pieces of thin, preferably single strand wire. First solder the wires onto the legs of the potentiometer. Then use a meter to adjust it to 28-29k. What I did then was put a pen mark on the 28k mark, then you can play with it later and know where to put it back to. Then take a deep breath, and solder it on to those two points. But like I said careful, these spots are extremely tiny, and closer than they look in the pic, you'll see. If you've soldered before that's good, cause this isn't the easiest solder work.


As I said too, the chip in the pic is very near your cpu socket, you don't have to remove anything to find it. Just observe orientation of the chip in the pic (the writing on it), then you'll be able to find this spot quite easily. You'll probably have to take off your heatsink and take you mobo out of the case, just makes it much easier, I wouldn't try it without doing that. Then just take some electrical tape or tie straps or something, and fasten the potentiometer somewhere safe and out of the way once you're done. Be careful though to not move your wires around much, such tiny solder points can be broken quite easily if you push the wire around too much. I did that on my p4p800, then had to redo the mod again. Of course this is all at your own risk, I know some people have destroyed their boards doing these mods. Also, there is no guarantee that this will increase your OC, but if the droop is whats stopping you it will help.

I did also do the vdimm mod to get a little more juice to the ram. You can find pics on the net for this one too, it's a chip located below the ram slots for this one. I'll try and find you a pic for that one. Now I can get over 3v if I needed it. I use about 2.9 on mine, more than I could get without the mod. This mod could help your OC too on the ram side, but it's not as important as the vcore mod IMO, the vcore droop on these Asus boards is nasty. I did the vdimm mod cause I already had my board out and figured what the hell, maybe it will help. If you have ram that's known to oc well at 2.9 or a little higher though, this mod could work well for you. One caution is that once you do it, you're lowest possible setting is alot higher than it used to be. I think it was like 2.85 or something and can't go lower, so if you have ram that can't take that much or over, don't do it.

btw had to bump up to 1.4375 vcore, but stable at 4ghz woot. 43C full load
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
I7 920 D0 @4GHz Asus P6X58D-E evga gtx260 896mb core216 superclocked 6GB Kingston HyperX 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
4x WDRaptor 74G Raid0 BenQ DW1655 Win7 Home Premium 64bit Samsung 226BW 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech G15 Seasonic S12 600W Antec Nine Hundred Logitech G7 
Mouse Pad
S&S Steel 
  hide details  
Reply
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
I7 920 D0 @4GHz Asus P6X58D-E evga gtx260 896mb core216 superclocked 6GB Kingston HyperX 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
4x WDRaptor 74G Raid0 BenQ DW1655 Win7 Home Premium 64bit Samsung 226BW 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech G15 Seasonic S12 600W Antec Nine Hundred Logitech G7 
Mouse Pad
S&S Steel 
  hide details  
Reply
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Intel Motherboards
Overclock.net › Forums › Intel › Intel Motherboards › Expert advice on P4P800-E before I do it.