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Expert advice on P4P800-E before I do it. - Page 3

post #21 of 35
Anytime one achieves a stable 4.0GHz on an i865pe socket 478 it is a matter of congratulations as not only do all the components have to be working very well in concert there needs to be some decent abilty in tweaking to get it there. Usually that is the realm of w/c or more extreme cooling methods.

The droop mod certainly helps. Have you installed MOSFET cooling or does the Big Typhoon do a decent enough job by itself?

R
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post #22 of 35
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ropey
Anytime one achieves a stable 4.0GHz on an i865pe socket 478 it is a matter of congratulations as not only do all the components have to be working very well in concert there needs to be some decent abilty in tweaking to get it there. Usually that is the realm of w/c or more extreme cooling methods.

The droop mod certainly helps. Have you installed MOSFET cooling or does the Big Typhoon do a decent enough job by itself?

R

No additional mosfet cooling or anything else, just me and my big typhoon. Even with it's stock fan I was cooler than with my xp90c, but I did add a more powerful fan to it, and it made it even cooler. I do have good case flow though too. I cut out a 120mm for a side fan, gives the ram, cpu, and northbridge and all that nice fresh air. I also cut out a 120mm top blowhole with a low cfm fan, just so any trapped heat can get out, my case temp is usually 30 or under whether under load or not. Case temp doesn't change much even under load for hours, so that's a good sign I guess.

I think the biggest key here to hitting 4.0 for me, coupled with the vcore mod, was the typhoon. It runs several degrees cooler than my xp90c did, and I haven't even lapped this one yet. I'm deciding if I even will lap it, not sure if I need it. I may though, just cause curiosity will nag at me until I know if I'd get better temps from it lol. Lapping did drop my temps on previous heatsinks and my cpu, by a couple or few degrees. Anyway I'd highly recommend the typhoon to anyone.

@gunner14, if you do it, post back how it worked out . Beautifully for me, vcore droop is almost non existent now.
    
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post #23 of 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by RoscoeMcGurk
Yes that's correct, you chose one or the other, the green ones or the red ones. The left red and left green are electrically the same point, same with the right. You can test this with a meter even if you want, I did and there's continuity so I can confirm the pic is right. I guess you probably could do something like the red one on the left, and the green one on the right if you wanted. Basically one leg on the left, one on the right, whichever way you do it.


btw had to bump up to 1.4375 vcore, but stable at 4ghz woot. 43C full load

Ok thanks for all that , I have everything except the VR. I should be able to pick up a vr at radioshack

Couple more questions, do I need a potentiometer ? . and what does that do exactly? Also, what are those 2 red dots for?

I can see how easily you can kill your board here those points are very close indeed. There is one good thing for me though, I've only had this board for 3 wks (30 day return period) so I can still return it if I mess up some how. I mean these boards are "deffective" so to speak they don't accept the voltages we give them.

I see you had to bring your voltage up a bit but I think you're still doing great, this mod probably unlocked a ton of potential right there.

I actually had a p4c-800 for a couple days had to return it because of dead pci slots. I've heard some people say thats a better board but I think the p4e is a better deal. I think its a newer board as well too.

Don't think I'm gonna do the ram mod, I can get up to 2.85 and I really don't wanna void the warranty with anything higher. 250 FSB is enough for me !!


Gosh, can't believe i have to take of the big typhoon that'll probably take longer than the mod !!
post #24 of 35
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by gunner14
Ok thanks for all that , I have everything except the VR. I should be able to pick up a vr at radioshack

Couple more questions, do I need a potentiometer ? . and what does that do exactly? Also, what are those 2 red dots for?

I can see how easily you can kill your board here those points are very close indeed. There is one good thing for me though, I've only had this board for 3 wks (30 day return period) so I can still return it if I mess up some how. I mean these boards are "deffective" so to speak they don't accept the voltages we give them.
Actually man, by even doing this mod, you are already voiding the hell outta your warranty, the second you touch your soldering iron to it, be aware of that. Same with lapping and alot of other things people do around here. That's why I said it's at your own risk, because of course if you do anything like that no warranty applies, even if it's new. That would be like buying a vcr, putting a sandwich in it, then try to claim warranty, no way . The "you break it, you buy it" policy applies to any of this kind of stuff. And I wouldn't call the vcore droop a "defect" exactly, plenty of people get pretty damn good overclocks with it. With stock speeds, I could never imagine it causing trouble for anyone, so Asus has fulfilled their obligation to the consumer completely. It's just not a great thing for us overclockers. It's a little disappointing to OC'ers, cause Asus pays quite alot of attention to overclocking usually, and they should've made a little better cpu voltage regulation setup. The vcore droop isn't as bad of a thing as maybe you think.

A potentiometer is a VR (variable resistor), sorry woulda made that clear but I thought you knew maybe. Not sure what you mean by the red dots, on the pic? As I already said it's just the points you need to solder to, the two red ones, or the two green ones. Beyond that I'm not sure what you're asking, I thought I was pretty clear on it. Good luck if you decide to do it, and like I said it does not guarantee you a better overclock, it may not help at all.
    
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post #25 of 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by RoscoeMcGurk
Actually man, by even doing this mod, you are already voiding the hell outta your warranty, the second you touch your soldering iron to it, be aware of that. Same with lapping and alot of other things people do around here. That's why I said it's at your own risk, because of course if you do anything like that no warranty applies, even if it's new. That would be like buying a vcr, putting a sandwich in it, then try to claim warranty, no way . The "you break it, you buy it" policy applies to any of this kind of stuff. And I wouldn't call the vcore droop a "defect" exactly, plenty of people get pretty damn good overclocks with it. With stock speeds, I could never imagine it causing trouble for anyone, so Asus has fulfilled their obligation to the consumer completely. It's just not a great thing for us overclockers. It's a little disappointing to OC'ers, cause Asus pays quite alot of attention to overclocking usually, and they should've made a little better cpu voltage regulation setup. The vcore droop isn't as bad of a thing as maybe you think.

A potentiometer is a VR (variable resistor), sorry woulda made that clear but I thought you knew maybe. Not sure what you mean by the red dots, on the pic? As I already said it's just the points you need to solder to, the two red ones, or the two green ones. Beyond that I'm not sure what you're asking, I thought I was pretty clear on it. Good luck if you decide to do it, and like I said it does not guarantee you a better overclock, it may not help at all.
I'm gonna do it today, I'm a lil iffy about doing it myself because the points are so tiny. Luckily I know the perfect guy to do soldering so gonna give him a call.

I'm pretty sure that this will help me, idle I get 1.55v at full load it drops to 1.43. Thats just ridiculous.

Oh and about the warranty, I didn't mean RMA. I just bought it from the store recently so I could easily return it and get another one just saying its defective. They have a nice return policy and wouldn't really care to even check the board.

Lol, I thought the pot and vr were different.

Hopefully I'll have some good news by later today.
post #26 of 35
First the bad....

Tried to do the mod, actually got an engineer/professor at a local community college to do the soldering for me. We chose the points on the board not on the sides of the component. The soldering was tough as those points are just tiny. We tested for continuity or lack thereof. I actually tried to boot up before I put on the resistor. Posted but it kept shutting off before I could even get into the bios.Tried resetting rechecking still nothing. Tried to put on the resistors but then it wouldn't even post. After that I pretty much gave up. Sux cuz I think this would really have helped me soar past 4.0 ghz.

The good news...

I just exchanged the board for another just like it at the store. Just finished putting it back in. Back up and running as before....it was nice not having to install any drivers Since its the identical board.

My cpu is running about 2-3 degrees warmer than before I but I guess I have to wait for th AS5 to settle.

All in all it sux that I didn't get the mod to work so the only thing I really lost was my saturday afternoon.
post #27 of 35
Thread Starter 
Hmmm, ya I don't know man. I know that's the spots, I did it on the sides of the component, the two red spots. I visually verified that the pic is correct also with my own mobo. He must have shorted one of the spots to the component next to it with solder or something, or shorted the two spots together, or killed a component by touching it with the iron, that's the only explanation. Back when I did the mod I was able to find more about this mod for this board, and I know that's where you solder it to.

You need a very very tiny solder tip, or it would be easy to damage something. Sorry it didn't work out, I know that's the right spot though. Worked beatifully for me, right now I get about 1.43 idle to 1.41-1.43 under 100% load.
    
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post #28 of 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by RoscoeMcGurk
Hmmm, ya I don't know man. I know that's the spots, I did it on the sides of the component, the two red spots. I visually verified that the pic is correct also with my own mobo. He must have shorted one of the spots to the component next to it with solder or something, or shorted the two spots together, or killed a component by touching it with the iron, that's the only explanation. Back when I did the mod I was able to find more about this mod for this board, and I know that's where you solder it to.

You need a very very tiny solder tip, or it would be easy to damage something. Sorry it didn't work out, I know that's the right spot though. Worked beatifully for me, right now I get about 1.43 idle to 1.41-1.43 under 100% load.

I really dunno what happend to be honest since we thought we had the spots done really good. Guess they we're probably touching but we just couldn't tell. Now I think about it doing the sides of the component might actually have been a better bet than those 2 points.

You must have great vision and really steady hands because this was one of the more difficult soldering jobs I've seen. Sux that I couldn't get it but atleast I"m still stable at 4.0, albeit with a much higher voltage. Maybe I'll give it a go later on once I've had the board for a bit.

What are your temps like btw?
post #29 of 35
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by gunner14
What are your temps like btw?
About 36-37 idle, and 42-43 full load. And here's another guy in this http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...4c800-e-4.html thread who used the green points on the pic and it worked for him, so ya you guys must have not got something quite right. Good luck if you ever try it again, your right it's not the easiest soldering job, very small, very close. The only reason it wasn't hard at all for me is cause I've done quite a bit of soldering. Not only are those connections close and small, but with such small components you have to be real careful with that iron. A bit too long with it could easily kill something, especially if you have a hot running iron.

Along those lines, if you ever do it again and decide to do it on the component instead, another word of caution. Those components are surface mounted, meaning if your iron sits there too long and you push or something, you could actually slide it out of it's position on the mobo, of course making your board an unhappy camper. Just be gentle yet quick as possible without damaging anything, that's key.
    
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post #30 of 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by RoscoeMcGurk
Along those lines, if you ever do it again and decide to do it on the component instead, another word of caution. Those components are surface mounted, meaning if your iron sits there too long and you push or something, you could actually slide it out of it's position on the mobo, of course making your board an unhappy camper. Just be gentle yet quick as possible without damaging anything, that's key.
Your temps are excellent then, nowhere close to 50!!

Kinda inevitable that I think about having another go at it. That guys hands were a bit shaky so I wonder if i could do a better job myself. Probably won't do it myself though. One more guy I know who's probably a better bet.

One thing for sure, if i mess up again I won't be able to exchange again.

I guess as a last option, would you be willing to do the job for me ? I'd have to ship it to ya and back, but I'd provide whatever u need. No risks for you of course.
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