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Grr.. the 655 is just too beastly for a single bas res.

post #1 of 12
Thread Starter 
So i have a danger den single bay res.. and its frustrating.
the small amount of air that is impossible to bleed just gets recirculated over and over again.

ive gotten over that and its on its way out the door.
my question is, does anyone with the micro res and the 655 have that problem? (constantly recirculating air)
the micro res seems to be of good design, but i'm worried about the volume of water lost by switching from one type of res to the other.

also, my water turns green even with silver and pt nuke both in the loop...

whats up with that?
i hate algae.
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post #2 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by spectre023 View Post
So i have a danger den single bay res.. and its frustrating.
the small amount of air that is impossible to bleed just gets recirculated over and over again.

ive gotten over that and its on its way out the door.
my question is, does anyone with the micro res and the 655 have that problem? (constantly recirculating air)
the micro res seems to be of good design, but i'm worried about the volume of water lost by switching from one type of res to the other.

also, my water turns green even with silver and pt nuke both in the loop...

whats up with that?
i hate algae.
Not sure about the algae, but I rad the Micro Res V2 and the 655 for a few months together and didn't have an issue..are you sure you've bled the loop properly and the air that you think is recirculating is just more air being pushed out? How full is your res?
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post #3 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by spectre023 View Post

also, my water turns green even with silver and pt nuke both in the loop...

whats up with that?
i hate algae.
I have same problem here, and I can tell its not algae. I have two types of tubing in one loop and 1/2 tubing is crystal clear and other one is greenish. I think that greenish thing has something to do with type of material used to produce tubing.

I also have DD SB res and the way I was able to get rid of air is to bend whole case on left side so the water is filling more left side where pump is sucking water while I add more water in res. After the res was almost full close it and it should work.
Edited by DraganUS - 6/10/10 at 7:47pm
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post #4 of 12
Thread Starter 
hmm.
both answers thought about carefully.
i did try the tilting thing, but if you look into the res where the fillport is, you'll see that there is a little square piece of acrylic that the cap screws into that isnt sitting flush with the walls of the res... its the air thats trapped between the walls and that square piece thats impossible to get out :?

and yeah, my system is bled and the res is as full as i can possibly get it.. its just one quarter sized air bubble that i cant for the life of me get out.

edit: did microcenter stop carrying reservoirs or something?
theres only one listed online...
Edited by spectre023 - 6/10/10 at 7:58pm
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post #5 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by spectre023 View Post
hmm.
both answers thought about carefully.
i did try the tilting thing, but if you look into the res where the fillport is, you'll see that there is a little square piece of acrylic that the cap screws into that isnt sitting flush with the walls of the res... its the air thats trapped between the walls and that square piece thats impossible to get out :?

and yeah, my system is bled and the res is as full as i can possibly get it.. its just one quarter sized air bubble that i cant for the life of me get out.

edit: did microcenter stop carrying reservoirs or something?
theres only one listed online...
Make sure you select your store on top of the web page.
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post #6 of 12
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DraganUS View Post
Make sure you select your store on top of the web page.
i did... i guess the houston store is just out of pretty much all of them lol
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post #7 of 12
Bay res's are fail when it comes to bleeding especially single bay res's... You need to get a decent cylinder res, the taller the better as it will give the bubbles more room to float upwards and out of the reach of the pumps suction. I personally like EK resevoirs. Get the 250 or bigger, or equivalent size of whatever brand you like.

Make sure you are using distilled or some type of filtered water also. I am baffled by the green though... Maybe it's a combo of the silver/ptnuke that is causing it? Try using just one.
 
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post #8 of 12
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shrimpykins View Post
Bay res's are fail when it comes to bleeding especially single bay res's... You need to get a decent cylinder res, the taller the better as it will give the bubbles more room to float upwards and out of the reach of the pumps suction. I personally like EK resevoirs. Get the 250 or bigger, or equivalent size of whatever brand you like.

Make sure you are using distilled or some type of filtered water also. I am baffled by the green though... Maybe it's a combo of the silver/ptnuke that is causing it? Try using just one.
thats what confused me.. i had only silver, it turned green, so i added pt nuke.
at that point the algae died and the water turned brown. i cleaned and added more with both the silver and ptn, and it happened again.

straight distilled.

and i think you may be right about the cylinder res thing.. i just hoped i could find something to work, cause i really like the look of the bay res.
its an attention grabber lol.

"***... is that water?!"
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post #9 of 12
I've never had any form of algea build up and I keep my loops running for 6months + with no additives just a stand alone coolant.

I got sick of trying to bleed my EK bay reservoir so I bought a DDC XSPC Pump Res and that thing practically bleeds itself. The bubbles float to the top, the water level drops and I refill the little puppy

My temperatures never changed even though the volume of water had decreased. It did however decrease the audible note of trapped air circulating through my pump and so decreased the pump noise.

Personally I would never stray away from my pump reservoir now.
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post #10 of 12
Im running a 655 and a micro res, it does take a considerable time to remove the air bubbles cause it ends up being suck right back by the pump. I did try a trick, if the air bubble is big and slow enough ill try to catch it while on its way back to the res. Then shut it off right before it reaches the res, then allow it to float back up. As it stands took me 2 days worth of bleeding to get almost 98% of the tiny air bubbles out of the system. I ran a system with pt nuke no algae for an entire year, with minimal fluid loss. So im not sure whats causing the green color build up on your system.
Edited by DarkstarX10a - 6/11/10 at 10:05am
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