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Shin-Etsu G-751 question - Page 3

post #21 of 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by GsxR1000Ryda View Post
Ok, well I canceled my order for the G751 and ordered this instead: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/89..._-_5_Gram.html

Like i said earlier, ill keep you guys posted once I test the new paste.
    
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post #22 of 33
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboHertz View Post
So i notice are machines are kind of similar, besides cpu & mobo of course. Out of curiosity, How did you apply you're TIM to your h50? And also, how do you have your h50 setup on your scout?
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post #23 of 33
It's at the back with the stock fan and a Scythe Slipstream, putting on the paste, put a dab in the middle and tighten the cooler, do NOT use the spread method (air bubbles) also don't use the stock case fans because they are 5v and less powerful than 12v fans. Buy 2 AP-15's for that baby
    
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post #24 of 33
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboHertz View Post
It's at the back with the stock fan and a Scythe Slipstream, putting on the paste, put a dab in the middle and tighten the cooler, do NOT use the spread method (air bubbles) also don't use the stock case fans because they are 5v and less powerful than 12v fans. Buy 2 AP-15's for that baby
Are you running the fans as intake or exhaust?
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post #25 of 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboHertz View Post
The Shin-Etsu thats already on the H50 is better than the G-751, it's Shin-Etsu X23-7783D, the only thing better would be Indigo Xtreme.
^ Yes ^
That's what I'm using, the G-751 isn't even on the comparison chart.

Here's where I got mine from.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/89...?tl=g8c127s846
Edited by letsgetiton - 6/11/10 at 3:15pm
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post #26 of 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by GsxR1000Ryda View Post
Are you running the fans as intake or exhaust?
Intake.
    
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post #27 of 33
Thread Starter 
Ok , I e-mailed Shin-etsu regarding paste application and this what they sent back to me. Maybe It's just me, but seems kind of confusing. Maybe someone here at OCN can makes some sense to this.

Quote:
Concerning how to apply it: 1) SilkscreeningHigh Production) This is typically accomplished by using some type of metal screen(perhaps 100 - 140mesh size) that is affixed to an apparatus. The intended part is then placed under the apparatus and the grease is smeared across the grid. This in turn transfers a grease pillow to the heatsink's surface. 2) Pattern PrintingHigh to Medium Production) This approach is similar to silkscreening but instead of a screen, it's a pattern that is cut out of a sheet of metal. The material would be applied the same, by transferring the material thru the holes in the metal to the heatsink. 3) Lab PrepLow Production and Evaluation) Finally, the approach that has the least amount of set up is either the dollop, dot pattern or using tape to box out an area and then smearing the material with a straight edge and then removing the tape for a finish pattern.

***The key is to provide a uniform layer of grease and to minimize the amount of air entrapment.***

Our X23 materials typically incorporate an "application chemical" that is designed to flash out of the material once it is exposed to an open environment. The key point, concerning the application chemical, is to allow it to flash out before the evaluation phase. This can be done by applying the material and allowing the applied material to sit exposed overnight. In a production setting the heat of the processor will flash the application chemical out of the assembly, or the application chemical will flash out of the material during transit from your contract manufacture to your assembly facility. If the application chemical isn't allowed to flash out the material during the evaluation phase, the material will not be able to perform at its optimum level.
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post #28 of 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by GsxR1000Ryda View Post
Ok , I e-mailed Shin-etsu regarding paste application and this what they sent back to me. Maybe It's just me, but seems kind of confusing. Maybe someone here at OCN can makes some sense to this.
Sounds obvious and straightforward.

Silkscreen, stencil (easiest for home users to do), or spray the TIM onto the surface, then they heat it for a while, or let it sit overnight, so the volatiles that let the compound be spread easily can evaporate. This is important because the stuff that makes TIMs fluid has universally crappy thermal conductivity.

What's the problem?
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post #29 of 33
Yea just like blameless said, he explained the instructions correctly, what part do you not understand?
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post #30 of 33
Basically, make an open masking tape square on the base of your heatsink, squirt some TIM on it, then take a razor blade and use that to spread the TIM evenly into the square. Remove tape and you've got yourself a thin, square, flat, layer of TIM with no air bubbles.

Let the heatsink sit for a while, but don't let crap get on the base, then mount it to your CPU.
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