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Ultimate H50 Mod Guide for Noobs

post #1 of 154
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Introduction
After seeing other guides for the H50 mod, I wanted to try it for myself. However, most other guides are pretty bare and leave a lot of the procedure up to common sense and guessing. While sufficient for people who have worked with water cooling before, they lack information that a first-time water cooler needs. For these people, I bring them: The Ultimate H50 Mod Guide for Noobs

Step-by-step directions, plenty of pictures, and a troubleshooting section should answer all of your questions. In this guide, I'll be showing you how to replace the stock radiator and fan with a bigger radiator, reservoir, and upgraded fans. To goal or reason for doing this is to achieve better cooling and thus lower cpu temps.
_______________

Update 6/15: Minor spelling and layout fixes
Update 6/17: Added FAQs and reworded a few steps
Update 6/27: Added "Pump Status" clock, Terminology section, Index, and updated titles.
_______________

Index
Introduction............................................... Post #1, top
Parts and Materials.................................... Post #1, middle to bottom
Procedure.................................................. Post #2, all
Getting Ready........................................... very top
Barbs............................................. ......... top
Fans.............................................. ......... 1/4 down
Disassembling..................................... ..... middle
Assembling........................................ ...... bottom
Leak Testing and Bleeding.......................... very bottom

Temperature Results................................. Post #3, middle
Terminology............................................... Post #3, bottom
Troubleshooting and FAQs......................... Post #3, bottom
_______________

Parts and Materials:
In addition to the list of materials below, this guide assumes you have some common tools, like a cresent wrench or socket set, pliers, philips-head screwdriver, flat-head screwdriver, a funnel, and a sharp blade, such as a box knife or razor blade... and a Corsair H50 unit, of course

- x4 1/4" barbs with G 1/4 BSPP threading (or just 2 if using a fillport)
http://www.dangerden.com/store/dange...-fittings.html

- x1 "double" (240mm) radiator (or a second "single" radiator in addition to the stock Corsair one)
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swmcqupo2x.html

- x2 120mm fans (or 4 if you want a push/pull setup)*
http://www.dangerden.com/store/yate-...-d12sh-12.html

- x1 reservoir or fillport (reservoir is recommended, especially for first-time water coolers)
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swmcmire2re.html

- x10 feet of 1/4" ID tubing (you probably won't need more than 6, but it's cheap and good to have extra)
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/dupvctu1id3o.html

- x8 1 1/4" screws (longer screws will require washers)
Fans and rads usually come with some. Local hardware store if you don't have enough.

- x1 liter of distilled water (Or more... it's only a few bucks for a gallon)
Local grocery store.

- Some of your favorite algee/bacterial additive (PT Nuke, iodine, Silver KillCoil, etc)
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/peptpcobi1.html


Optional items:
- x8 or more washers or rubber spacers. Necessary if using longer screws or to combat fan vibration.
- Any pre-mixed coolant or water dyes if you desire.**
- If using the stock Corsair rad and another "single" rad (instead of one "double"), you'll need an additive/coolant to combat galvanic corrosion.***
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/febafbcobl.html
- metal worm-drive clamps, zip ties, plastic snap clamps, etc to help secure tubing to barbs.
I put this under optional because it's not easy to find hose clamps small enough for 1/4" tubing.
- Fan shrouds if you desire.


* The fans I linked to are rated at 40dBa. This means they are not considered quiet by most people (but they aren't loud either). If you want fans with similar performance but quieter, I suggest Scythe Gental Typhoons.
** Most regular and UV-reactive water dyes usually leave a "residue" or "film" on everything it touches. This can lead to reduced performance and pump life.
*** While the pump and most aftermarket radiators are made of copper, the stock Corsair radiator is made of aluminum. If using the Corsair rad and another "single" rad together, you will need an additive or coolant to prevent the corrosion. Google "galvanic corrosion" or "Mixed-metal corrosion" to learn more.
Edited by MrLinky - 6/27/10 at 6:01pm
     
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post #2 of 154
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Procedure:
Getting Ready:
First things first: disconnect your H50 and prepare a table or something to work on. If you have extra thermal paste, you can wipe the bottom of the H50 off so it doesn't leave smudges everywhere it sits.

^ a pic of the H50, in case you didn't know what you're looking for.
_______________

Barbs:
Okay, now lets do the easy stuff: attaching the barbs to the radiator and reservoir.




Pretty straight forward. Below is a zoomed-in pic of the barbs on the reservoir; the top barb is fully screwed in, while the bottom is only finger tight... finger tight has a good chance of leaking, so you'll want to use a socket or cresent wrench to tighen them 1/2 to 3/4s of a turn after finger tight. Same rule applies for the radiator.

_______________

Fans:
Next, let's put the fans on the radiator. Below is a pic of the radiator with both fans. If you needed washers, put them between the screw head and fan. If you needed rubber spacers, put them between the fan and radiator.

^With most fans, like the Yate Loons, the side of the fan with the sticker on the center hub is the direction the air is being blown in. Pictured above is the "Push" configuration. In the event you have the type of case where the radiator mounts to one side of the panel/roof, and the fans for the radiator on the other side, skip this step.
_______________

Disassembling:
That was it for the easy stuff. Grab your razor or box knife and lets gut an H50! Cut the black tubing anwhere you want... the red line is where I cut it:



Let it drain out into a sink. You don't have to save it in a glass like I did (I just wanted to see what was inside). Cut the other hose before moving on.



Hmm, looks like water, but certainly doesn't smell or taste like it!



Okay, okay, enough horseplay. Next we'll take the H50's asthetic cover off to finish removing the black tubing. To do this you need to remove the two longer screws on the bottom:

^ Notice how one is longer than the other? There are two long screws and a thousand short ones. We only need to remove the long ones.


The red circles indicate where the two longer screws reside. You'll notice I removed about half of the short screws before I realized only the long ones need to come off.




Pictured below is the H50 (cover removed) showing the black tubing completly removed leaving the plastic barb intact (left), and the black tubing still attached (right). Using your razor or box knife, you'll need to cut the black tubing in half vertically (red line) from the bottom to the top (yellow line). VERY IMPORTANT: Be carful NOT to cut/nick/break/damage the plastic barbs underneath... if you do, there's a very good chance it'll leak.



Good work doctor, the operation was a success! Put the cover back on the pump and reattach all screws.
_______________

Planning and Layout:
The next big step is to plan out your loop and cut the tubing accordingly. Do note that you are assembleing the loop outside of the case... don't bother attaching/bolting anything down yet (unless needed to estimate tube length). As this part is very dependent on your case and layout, I cannot provide exact pictures or instructions. Instead, here are the guidelines:
- If possible, mount the reservoir higher than the radiator and pump.
- Avoid sharp bends that kink the tubing
- Loop order should be as follows: Reservoir to Pump (1), Pump to Radiator (2) and Radiator back to Reservoir (3).

Here's some examples of possible layouts done in paint... with a touchpad :





Last tidbit of info for planning your loop: It's important you hook the correct tube to the correct barb on the pump and reservior. Refer to the pics below for proper ports and flow direction.


_______________

Assembling:
Once you've got it all figured out, go ahead and put the loop together. Again, you're not fastening/putting anything into the case yet, just connecting the tubing to the components. Below are pics of the tubing attached to the components and a zoomed-out pic of the completed loop:




^ Above is the completed loop (minus the pump cover, d'oh!)
_______________

Leak Testing and Bleeding:
Now time to fill it with water and test for leaks. Grab a funnel or turkey baster and fill the reservoir up. While filling the reservoir, hold it higher than the pump and radiator so the water flows down the tubes and fills them. If done correctly, you will have filled the reservoir up 3 or more times before the pump and radiator are mostly full and don't accept more liquid.



The next step is to turn the pump on. Doing this accomplishes two things: it mildly pressurizes the loop, so any leaks will become apparent... and two, it helps push any trapped air in the pump and radiator to the reservoir (this second part is called Bleeding). If you didn't already guess it, you'll need to hold the reservoir higher than the other components to help bleed the excess air out.

Now you may be wondering "Wait, how to I power the pump?" There are several ways, and you decide which is best for you.
- Installing the stock Intel heatsink on the cpu, connect the pump to a fan header, and turn the pc on
- Use the "Paperclip" trick to turn the PSU on without a motherboard (http://aphnetworks.com/lounge/turn_o...aperclip_trick)
- Try your luck and leak test + bleed your loop INSIDE your case and attached to the motherboard. The risk with this method is pretty obvious so I won't spell it out for you.
- An AC to Molex power supply (with a molex to 3-pin adapter) could power the pump without a mobo: http://www.dangerden.com/store/ac-to...ly-5-amps.html


Now you have your loop running at full speed and haven't had any leaks (or have fixed any you've found). Bleeding the air out is a long process, but very necessary: Even one bubble trapped in your radiator will noticabley reduce your H50's cooling capability.
Bleeding a loop is much like holding down a posessed person during an exorcism. You'll want hold the reservoir high while violently shaking and rotating the pump and radiator. A good 5 to 10 minutes of this should get most of the air out.
Edited by MrLinky - 6/27/10 at 5:26pm
     
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post #3 of 154
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Completion:
Ah, victory at last! With your loop filled, bled, and leak-free, you can finally install it on your computer. If too much thermal paste came off the bottom of the H50 while working with it, you should clean it and the cpu off and reapply some more. If you do not have any more, I recommend you pick up a tube of OCZ Freeze. It's amazing stuff. Here's a pic of my modified H50 loop installed on my Folding rig:

^ It's a mess, I know. I'm ordering parts to make an acrylic tech bench for it soon!
_______________

Temperature Results:
I did a before-and-after run to see how effective a bigger radiator and better fans are. The test was a ~30 minute run of Prime95 Small FFTs.
Before (stock H50, single stock Corsair fan, 80F/26.6C ambients):



After (H50 w/ 240mm Swiftech rad, 2x Yate Loons Hi Speed in Push, 80F/26.6C ambients):


Pretty good improvement! This mod took 10C off the peak and averaged core temps.
_______________

Toubleshooting:
- "Uh, is the pump supposed to make this ugly grinding/gurgeling noise"?
Initially yes, that's normal. It's what happens when there is air trapped inside the pump. It should quickly become silent as the air is pushed out and replaced by water. If the noise lasts more than a minute, power off and shake the unit to expel the bubbles.

- "The pump is running normally, but the water is barely moving or not at all".
Most likely a big air bubble trapped in the radiator somewhere. Shake the radiator and rotate it so the highest point is the line leading to the reservoir to expel the air. Also check for kinks in the loop.

- "My load temps are nearly the same or higher than before the mod"!
Again, most likely you have air trapped in the loop somewhere... even if the water appears to be moving at full speed. If you're absolutly 110% positive there is no air in the loop, make sure the fan header you have the pump plugged into is set to 100% and not a "smart fan" type setting. Also, reappling the thermal paste and remounting couldn't hurt.


Other FAQs:
- "This will void my warrenty, right"?
Correct. The second you cut the tubing, neither Corsair or Asetek is responsible nor obligated to provide any help or warrenty repair/replacement.

- "Should I be concerned about pump life/longevity now that its under more stress than before"?
The short answer: no (at least i'm not, anyways). Keep in mind the H50, and subsequently this popular mod, are relatively new so only time will tell.* (More on pump lifespan at the end)

- "Can I use parts other than what you've suggested"?
You sure can. The parts I choose have the best balance of price, performance, and user-friendliness, but you're free to use something else. You will want to make sure everything is compatable however, meaning fans that are thicker or thinner than 1 inch (25mm) will require different length screws, the threading on the rad and res have to match the barbs, and so on.

- "You didn't use anything to secure the tubing to the barbs? Doesn't that put you at risk for leaks?
It most certianly does. Unsecured tubing greatly increases the chance of leaks or the tubing slipping off. However, as mentioned before, 3/8" OD tubing is unusually small, meaning conventional hose clamps small enough are rare to non-existant. Zip-ties, although better than nothing, are the last choice in my book. But I was pleased by how snug the tubes fit over the barbs so I personally decided not to use anything.

- "I'm not sure where I can put the reservoir because I don't know how/what I can mount it to."
Every case and layout will be different from the next so there is no "normal" or "defualt" spot. The reservoir (Swiftech MICRO) comes with a lot of univeral mounting hardware and instructions, so it shouldn't be too hard to mount where you want to. For... 'creative' spots, you might need to drill or use aditional materials.

* Additonal info about pump lifespan (Click to show)

Asetek originally had a 120mm and 240mm version of the H50, dubbed the LCLC (low-cost liquid cooling). Corsair saw the potential of the LCLCs, and after tweaking the design a little, sold it with the Corsair name stamped on it. Considering Asetek sold LCLCs with a 240mm rad from the factory, and that the H50 looks remarkably like it, i'm assuming the basic design can still handle the larger rad.

I'll keep this guide updated and report any changes in performance or health

_______________

Terminology and Slang:
Bleeding: Drawing the air out of the tubing and components
Double: A 240mm wide radiator (you can attach two 120mm fans side-by-side)
Loop: A name for the entire water cooling system
Mod: Meaning to modify or alter something physically
Rad: Short for Radiator
Res: Short for Reservoir
Single: A 120mm wide radiator (you can only fit one 120mm fan on each side)
_______________

My modified H50 as been running 24/7 since 6/12/10 with no issues
Edited by MrLinky - 6/27/10 at 6:32pm
     
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post #4 of 154
Awesome guide!
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post #5 of 154
nicely done very detailed.
im thinking of going water.
post #6 of 154
Could this setup work?


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

I want to use an extra pump including the h50 pump, is that possible with this kind of setup?

Reservoir and Pump: http://www.gammods.com.au/store/inde...oducts_id=2546

EDIT: What have you used to tighten your tubes to the barbs?
Edited by BubbleFighter - 6/14/10 at 4:08am
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post #7 of 154
Great guide + rep! I am so doing this when I get paid
    
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post #8 of 154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BubbleFighter View Post
I want to use an extra pump including the h50 pump, is that possible with this kind of setup?

Reservoir and Pump: http://www.gammods.com.au/store/inde...oducts_id=2546

EDIT: What have you used to tighten your tubes to the barbs?
Those reservoir+pump combos can be a little tricky to bleed the air out of but once its up and running it should work just fine.

I personally didn't use any hose clamps with mine, mainly because they're so hard to find for tubing this small. Zip-ties, although they'd be my last choice to secure tubing to barbs with, are better than nothing.
     
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post #9 of 154
Is there a way of taking off the pump shroud without breaking the loop? I want to spray paint the hoses red.
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post #10 of 154
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by KruperTrooper View Post
Is there a way of taking off the pump shroud without breaking the loop? I want to spray paint the hoses red.
Sure is. The cover or shroud for the H50 actually has two "flaps" in front of the tube/barb area. Check out this close up to see what I mean:

^See the seam? After unscrewing the two longer screws holding the cover on, push one side in and pull the other out... you should be able to slip the tubes through the opening on at a time.
LL
     
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