Ultimate H50 Mod Guide for Noobs - Page 12

I'm currently working on a closed loop with a 380 Radiator, this project has taken quite awhile to get rid of bubbles in the line and I'm just now about to be done, however I have noticed that my H50 pump is rather loud, Is this a safe indication that I still have more bleeding to do or is this normal with a modified loop? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

If I manage to get this done I will share my long drawn out and more than slightly frustrating process on how to fill a loop with no res or fill-port.

@Xulos:

Read the OP, all available and important information can be found there.

EDIT:
Previously I accidentally said I was working with a "380" Rad and meant to say a "280" Rad.

When you have both barbs in front of you with the H50 sitting on its contact surface, the one from the right is intake and the left one is the outlet.

Hey does anybody know what the internal composition of the H50 contact plate is? Is it copper or aluminum? I want to bet it's Copper, I don't want to chance Galvanic corrosion so that's why I'm asking. The radiator I'm going to use is copper inside and I don't want to mix metals for obvious reasons.

Alright so guys and gals I finally completed my mod after several months of putting it off and have gotten decent results. The H50 pump can handle a 280rad just fine albeit with two downsides. The H50 pump can barely push enough water through this rad to keep temps at a good level, and thus doesn't really net me amazing results.

Specifications:
The CPU: AMD Phenom 1600T x6 @ 4.0Ghz / 1.55v (960T Unlocked)
Ambient Room: 22c
Ambient Case: 25c~28c
Fans Push: 2x Scythe "Slipstream" 120mm w/120-140converter
Fans Pull: 2x Rosewill "Hyperborea" 140 mm (2.76 mm H2O)
Fan Speeds: Maxed

Temperatures:
On Stock HS:
Idle Temp: 51c~53c
Max Load: Didn't even attempt this for good reason

H50 w/280rad:
Idle Temp: 32c~35c
Max Load: 50c~52c

Test #2: (Ambient Room: 18c) (Ambient Case: 22c)
Idle Temp: 31c
Max Load: 48c

Roughly a 10~15c difference between room and Idle temps during all the tests I did.

As you can see the results aren't as good as they could be seeing that I only have a single CPU on a 280 rad, IMHO this due to the low power of the H50 pump. I must also mention that it took me over 10 hours to bleed the pump with a T connection as all the pump would manage to do even if I shook it violently during operation is just produce fizz. To bleed my loop properly all I did is directly connect the "OUT" to the "IN" port with the T-Connector being on the line above the pump and flick the pump on with my external 12v PSU I got from a handy HDD transfer kit and monitor the RPMs with a basic fan controller. At first the thing was loud and obnoxious but eventually began spitting out fizz at a constant rate. I found that if I just let it sit there for 20 minutes then shook it violently again the pump would see a massive surge in RPM from around 1400RPM to around 3200RPM and then start settling down whilst pumping equally obnoxious amounts of fizz. I left the pump running all night and when I woke up no matter how hard I shook that pump the rpm stayed constant at around 1350~1430rpm and no fizzing whatsoever.

A video of the fizzing in action:


As for the rad I purchased 4 gallons of distilled water and filled my kitchen sink and worked all the bubbles out of the rad before I connected the lines to the pump. I then proceeded to install both a killcoil and a silver bullet in the t connection after everything was connected and running that way I won't have any issues with algae in the line for a long time if ever.

Inb4picsoritdidnthappen:






Things left to do:
Rotate the rad where the barbs are inside the computer and remove excess tubing to reduce pump resistance and possibly improve temps.

So I bought an H50 off ebay because it was cheap, never used and only missing a fan (which I have plenty of).

I was thinking this radiator:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14237/ex-rad-291/XSPC_RS240_Dual_120mm_Low_Profile_Radiator_Rev_2.html?tl=g30c95s160

+ A second pump
+ Reservoir
In addition to the original radiator.

I figure that I can mount the original radiator to the back fan grill and the second radiator at the bottom. What makes this cool better than the standard H50? The bigger radiator in the OP did a 10 degree difference on the hottest core, which is nice, but would the addition of the second pump help any after the bleeding process, or should I start with just a second pump and reservoir and add another radiator later? It seems like with all the issues moving water, the pump/res might be the first thing I want to purchase.

In that case, I might just go with a 240 radiator, res and a pump. I picked up this H50 for $25, so if I can keep costs down without sacrificing quality of parts I might be able to get something together that can outperform an H100 whilst being cheaper.