Overclock.net › Forums › Case Mods & Cases › Builds & Case Mods › Case Mods › Case Mod Work Logs › [Complete] 2' x 3' Custom CNC Router from 80/20 Aluminum Extrusion
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

[Complete] 2' x 3' Custom CNC Router from 80/20 Aluminum Extrusion

post #1 of 116
Thread Starter 
Hi OCN! I'm back!





I am currently in the process of setting up my new 2' x 3' CNC router. This machine was constructed according to the designs of Ahren Johnson and Nate Lowrie, using their custom machined parts. These two outstanding gentlemen teamed up to form Fine Line Automation(FLA). You can find the open source plans for the the 2' x 3' router at www.finelineautomation.com, which is the same place that sells kits and parts for replicating their CNC router.

Also, I'd like to give a special shout out to Cattle Rustler- I'm testing out his build log creator software and so far all is going well!

I will be keeping a (somewhat) brief log of my experience assembling and testing my machine while also attempting to provide assembly instructions as the plans from FLA are somewhat lacking in this regard. If you download the open source plans, you will find a well organized Bill of Materials, some PDFs detailing how the 80/20 must be machined if you are processing your own 80/20, and finally a 3D E-Drawing. Essentially, you're given a list of parts and a picture of what it's all supposed to look like when you're done.

I decided to cut, drill, and tap my own 80/20 frame which I purchased from the 80/20 surplus e-bay store. I also bought aluminum bars from McMaster-Carr to make my own rails instead of buying the steel rails from FLA. Unless you have a drill press and you are a skilled machinist, I would highly recommend buying the 8020 and steel rails from FLA. I spent the past week processing 8020 and making the rails. It was a lot of work and involved much frustration. In the end I was able to make do with a hand held drill and a few clever drill jigs constructed from scrap aluminum, utilizing squares and lots of clamps. I saved around $400 in materials but that really wasn't enough to make up for time and frustration.

Ok, that's enough of an introduction! On with the build!

Specs:
Sturdy 80/20 Aluminum Frame Sporting a 2' x 3' Workable Area
Hitachi M12VC 2-1/4-Horsepower Variable Speed Router
Custom Router Mount for Hitachi M12VC by K2CNC
Gecko G540 Stepper Motor Controller
3x 380 oz-in Nema 23 Stepper Motors
350W 48V Power Supply
Custom Machined Mounts, Bearing Blocks, and Carriages from FLA

I began by laying out the 80/20 base frame for the table, which I constructed upside down. First I took twelve 5/16" 18 BHCS (0.625" long) and screwed them half way into the ends of the horizontal pieces. There are two bolts in each circled end:


Next you will need four economy T-nuts, two 2" long carriage bolts, and two 5/16" 18 BHCS. It is important that you gather all the parts that need to slide into the 24" cross beams from the ends. This has to be done now, or you will find yourself disassembling the entire frame in about an hour or so once you realize your mistake:


Slide the carriage bolts into the rear 24" cross beam. We won't need these until later, but it will be impossible to get them into the 8020 channel after the main frame has been bolted together:


Note the location of the carriage bolts, front and center:


Slide two T-nuts into the outward-facing channel of the front 24" cross beam. These will be used for mounting the stepper motor:


The same two T-nuts are circled in this picture for reference:


Slide the T-nuts and BHCS into the central 24" cross beam. I found it is much easier to do it this way than to try to screw the bolts into the nuts after the nuts have been put in place:


Slide the 14" 8020 beam over the BHCS you just put in place, forming a T like so:


Then use a hex key and the access holes drilled in the 14" 8020 beam to tighten the screws. Tighten just enough so the pieces do not come apart on their own but leave it loose enough so there is still some play:


Take two more 5/16" 18 BHCS (0.625" long) and screw them part way into the other end of the 14" beam:


Slide the front 24" beam over the bolts you just screwed into the end of the 14" beam and use the access holes in the front beam to tighten the bolts:


Next you want to slide the 45" side beams over the center cross beam. This is the before picture:


This is after. Do not slide it in all the way yet because we still need to install the feet.


Take your four 6" pieces of 8020 (or whatever you are using for legs) and screw two 5/16" 18 (0.625" long) BHCS into one end of each leg:


Then slide the legs into position:


All four legs in place:


Now you can slide the two outer cross beams into the side rails. At this point you are going to want tighten every single bolt holding the frame together. It would probably be a good idea to check everything with a square. Resist the temptation to flip the frame over and tighten the bolts holding the legs in place.


For the next step you need the 40.5" threaded Acme rod, one anti-backlash nut, a bearing block with bearing, bearing block cover, four washers, two needle thrust bearings, a 3.25" long 1/2" steel rod, a 1/2" shaft coupler, 1/2" clamp collar, four nylon lock nuts, two 1/4" 20 x 0.625" SHCS, two 2" carriage bolts, and a 1/2" to 1/4" anti-backlash shaft coupler:


Insert the 1/2" steel rod in the bearing block. There should be roughly equal lengths protruding from both sides of the bearing block:


Next place the bearing block cover plate over the steel rod and secure it with the two 1/4"-20 SHCS:


Place a washer on top of the bearing plate:


Add a needle thrust bearing on top of that:


...another washer...


and finally the 1/2" shaft coupler.


Flip the piece around and add another washer-needle thrust bearing-washer sandwich to the other side of the bearing block:


secure it with a 1/2" clamp collar:


and top it off with a 1/2" to 1/4" anti-backlash shaft coupler:


Find another bearing block, cover, and two more 1/4"-20 SHCS:


Install the cover on the bearing block:


Thread the anti-backlash nut a few inches along the 40.5" Acme rod:


Slide the two carriage bolts into the 14" 8020 beam:


Slip the bearing block with the shaft couplers over the carriage bolts, slide it to the front of the frame:


The 1/4" end of the 1/4" to 1/2" shaft coupler should line up with the outer face of the front 8020 cross piece:


Install the two nylon locking nuts(hand tight for now) and insert the threaded Acme rod into the 1/2" shaft coupler:


Everything should look like this:


Take your second bearing block and slip it over the other end of the Acme rod:



* This Worklog post was generated using WorklogCreator - Version: 1.0.1.7
* Free Download: http://www.mod2software.com/worklogc...logcreator.zip
Edited by jpz - 8/10/10 at 12:24pm
BlackBox
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Q6600 3.6ghz @ 1.35V Gigabyte X38-DS4 ATI 5870 4GB Corsair Dominator 1033Mhz 
Hard DriveOSMonitorKeyboard
Hitachi P7K500 320GB 64-bit Gentoo Linux / 64-bit Vista Ultimate Sceptre X24-WG 24" WUXGA Deck 82-key 
PowerCaseMouse
Corsair 750TX BlackBox (scratch built) Logitech G5 
  hide details  
Reply
BlackBox
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Q6600 3.6ghz @ 1.35V Gigabyte X38-DS4 ATI 5870 4GB Corsair Dominator 1033Mhz 
Hard DriveOSMonitorKeyboard
Hitachi P7K500 320GB 64-bit Gentoo Linux / 64-bit Vista Ultimate Sceptre X24-WG 24" WUXGA Deck 82-key 
PowerCaseMouse
Corsair 750TX BlackBox (scratch built) Logitech G5 
  hide details  
Reply
post #2 of 116
Thread Starter 
Then slip it over the carriage bolts and install the remaining two locknuts(again, only hand tight):


If you were to flip it over the tighten the legs, it would look like this. But don't do that yet!


Take your two 44" long rails and 22 3/4" long carriage bolts:


Slip the carriage bolts into the side beams:


It's rather difficult to get the rail to slip over the carriage bolts, so you want the bolts lined up as close as possible with the holes in the rail.


It's a lot easier to do this if you slide the feet towards the middle temporarily so you can place the rail closer to the carriage bolts when positioning them:


With a little coaxing, the rail should fall in place like so:


Notice the tight tolerances here! 5/16" bolts in 5/16" holes means very little room for error. I strongly recommend buying the precision machined rails from FLA instead of drilling your own.


Grab 22 locknuts and secure the rails:


Now you can flip the frame over and tighten the screws holding the legs in place:


For the next step you will need two extended rail carriages and accompanying bearings, bolts, and washers:


Place the bearings over the bolts first, then the washers:


Grab a wrench and fire up Bioshock tighten the bolts:


Slide one carriage onto each rail:


Next you will need four 2.5" carriage bolts, two 5/16" 18 x 2.5" SHCS, and two corner brackets, four T-nuts, and two 5/16"-18 x 0.625" BHCS:


Grab the 30" piece of 8020 and slip two T-nuts into one of the channels:


Slide two carriage bolts into each end of the 30" 8020 beam:


Pass the 30" beam under the frame, and lift one end so the carriage bolts pass through the carriage. Secure it with two lock nuts:


Once you've done one side, secure the other end of the 30" cross beam.


Take the BHCS and two remaining T-nuts and arrange them like so:


They slide in place like so:


Pass a 5/16"-18 x 2.5" SHCS through the corner bracket and carriage and secure it with a nut on top:


When you are done it should look like this. Grab two 5/16" 18 BHCS to secure the anti-backlash nut on the Acme rod to the 30" cross beam. Now would probably be a good time to do some alignment, but that can wait until later.


Take two 12" pieces of 1545 8020 and screw two 5/16"-18 x 0.625" BHCS into each end of each piece (8 BHCS in total):


Slip them onto the gantry and tighten with a hex key from below:


Next slide the 36" 3030 8020 on top to complete the gantry frame:


Now you need four more corner brackets, eight 5/16"-18 BHCS, and four T-nuts:


Install the corner brackets on the ends of the 1545 8020 pieces to add support to the gantry:


Next you will need 16 3/4" carriage bolts and the 29" x 6" rail:


Install it just like the previous two rails:


Next I did some alignment. Make sure the gantry is square and that all the bearings are making contact with the rails. Don't forget to adjust the set screws in the carriage blocks. Clamps are useful here:


Once the gantry is properly aligned, turn the acme screw by hand(or couple it to an electric drill) and move the gantry all the way forward and all the way backward on the rails. Once the gantry is all the way forward, tighten the bearing block coupler assembly underneath with a wrench. Move the gantry to the far end and tighten the nuts holding the bearing block in place at the far end too.

Make another coupler-bearing block assembly (same as the previous one) and get two 2" carriage bolts and two nuts:


Install the bearing block on the gantry. Do not tighten yet.


Grab another bearing block and cover, secure the cover with two 1/4"-20 SHCS, find two 2" carriage bolts, and two nuts:


Install the bearing block on the other side of the gantry(again, do not tighten yet):


Locate the 15" 8020 beam for the z-axis, and secure the 10" x 4" rail with six 3/4" carriage bolts and nuts. The extra holes there are from my failed first attempt at drilling the mount holes.


Find two more 5/16"-18 x 0.625" BHCS, two T-nuts, and another anti-backlash nut:



* This Worklog post was generated using WorklogCreator - Version: 1.0.1.7
* Free Download: http://www.mod2software.com/worklogc...logcreator.zip
Edited by jpz - 6/15/10 at 2:34pm
BlackBox
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Q6600 3.6ghz @ 1.35V Gigabyte X38-DS4 ATI 5870 4GB Corsair Dominator 1033Mhz 
Hard DriveOSMonitorKeyboard
Hitachi P7K500 320GB 64-bit Gentoo Linux / 64-bit Vista Ultimate Sceptre X24-WG 24" WUXGA Deck 82-key 
PowerCaseMouse
Corsair 750TX BlackBox (scratch built) Logitech G5 
  hide details  
Reply
BlackBox
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Q6600 3.6ghz @ 1.35V Gigabyte X38-DS4 ATI 5870 4GB Corsair Dominator 1033Mhz 
Hard DriveOSMonitorKeyboard
Hitachi P7K500 320GB 64-bit Gentoo Linux / 64-bit Vista Ultimate Sceptre X24-WG 24" WUXGA Deck 82-key 
PowerCaseMouse
Corsair 750TX BlackBox (scratch built) Logitech G5 
  hide details  
Reply
post #3 of 116
Thread Starter 
Slide the T-nuts into one end of the z-axis 8020 beam:


Bolt down the anti-backlash nut and thread the 31" Acme rod through the nut:


First pass the threaded rod through the bearing block:


Then slide the rod into the shaft couple on the other side:


You will need this x2. Assemble two carriages the same way you did the extended rail carriages, and get four 2.5" carriage bolts and four nuts.


First install the top carriage to the back of the Z-axis beam. Only make the nuts hand tight:


Next install the bottom carriage and align everything. Make sure the Z axis beam is perpendicular to the table, and that all bearings contact the rail.


Now you can tighten the nuts securing the bearing blocks. Move the z-axis 8020 beam side to side the same way you moved the gantry when securing those bearing blocks.

Once everything is secured and aligned, make a third shaft coupler / bearing block assembly and insert the 11.5" Acme rod. You will need two 2" carriage bolts and nuts.


Install the bearing block assembly for the z-axis on the top of the z-axis beam. Only hand tight, as usual. The shaft bottom shaft coupler will rest on the 10" x 4" rail:


Assemble the final two carriages, and bolt them to the Z-axis plate using two 3/8 x 2.5" SHCS for each carriage. Bolt the third anti-backlash nut to the Z-axis plate with two 5/16"-18 x 0.625" BHCS and install your router mount to the other side of the plate:




Roll the Z-axis assembly onto the Z-axis rail from below and thread the Acme rod through the nut in the back of the Z-axis plate:


Again, everything is being supported by the shaft coupler resting on the rail plate for the time being:


Find two 1.25" carriage bolts, two nuts, and the low profile bushing block:


Install it ( hand tight) to the base of the Z-axis:


Now you can turn the Z-axis shaft until the router mount is raised up all the way, lift the top bearing block so it no longer rests on the rail, and secure it with a wrench.


Then lower the router mount as until it reaches the bottom:


Tighten the nuts on the low profile bushing block. You should be able to reach them with a wrench.


That's about it for now... next up are the stepper motors:





* This Worklog post was generated using WorklogCreator - Version: 1.0.1.7
* Free Download: http://www.mod2software.com/worklogc...logcreator.zip
Edited by jpz - 6/15/10 at 2:33pm
BlackBox
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Q6600 3.6ghz @ 1.35V Gigabyte X38-DS4 ATI 5870 4GB Corsair Dominator 1033Mhz 
Hard DriveOSMonitorKeyboard
Hitachi P7K500 320GB 64-bit Gentoo Linux / 64-bit Vista Ultimate Sceptre X24-WG 24" WUXGA Deck 82-key 
PowerCaseMouse
Corsair 750TX BlackBox (scratch built) Logitech G5 
  hide details  
Reply
BlackBox
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Q6600 3.6ghz @ 1.35V Gigabyte X38-DS4 ATI 5870 4GB Corsair Dominator 1033Mhz 
Hard DriveOSMonitorKeyboard
Hitachi P7K500 320GB 64-bit Gentoo Linux / 64-bit Vista Ultimate Sceptre X24-WG 24" WUXGA Deck 82-key 
PowerCaseMouse
Corsair 750TX BlackBox (scratch built) Logitech G5 
  hide details  
Reply
post #4 of 116
that is ridiculously awesome and i have no idea why no one has commented!

i wants moar!!!!!
Hephae
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Q9550 Zotac 9300 mITX MSI 460GTX Cyclone 2x 2GB Team Xtreem 
Hard DriveOSKeyboardPower
500GB SG Momentus XT Win7 x64 Logitech Illuminated Seasonic X650 
CaseMouse
Hephae Razer Abyssus 
  hide details  
Reply
Hephae
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Q9550 Zotac 9300 mITX MSI 460GTX Cyclone 2x 2GB Team Xtreem 
Hard DriveOSKeyboardPower
500GB SG Momentus XT Win7 x64 Logitech Illuminated Seasonic X650 
CaseMouse
Hephae Razer Abyssus 
  hide details  
Reply
post #5 of 116
Only because I had'nt seen the post Very nice,wish I had one of those
/\n3uRy5|\/|
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD 965 B.E. @ 4Ghz 24/7 MSi 890GXM-G65 MSi Hawk R5770 Super Talent Project X CL7's 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
OCZ vertex 30Gb, 1Tb Spinpoint F3 short stroked external LG combo drive 7 Pro x64 Asus VW266H 25.5" 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Das Model S Professional Silent OCZ ModXstream 700w Lian Li T60-B Logitech G7 
Mouse Pad
Ratpadz GS 
  hide details  
Reply
/\n3uRy5|\/|
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD 965 B.E. @ 4Ghz 24/7 MSi 890GXM-G65 MSi Hawk R5770 Super Talent Project X CL7's 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
OCZ vertex 30Gb, 1Tb Spinpoint F3 short stroked external LG combo drive 7 Pro x64 Asus VW266H 25.5" 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Das Model S Professional Silent OCZ ModXstream 700w Lian Li T60-B Logitech G7 
Mouse Pad
Ratpadz GS 
  hide details  
Reply
post #6 of 116
If I had a few grand to spare I am certain this is what I would spend it on.
i7 monsta
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 920 [4.2GHz] [1.325V] ASUS P6T Deluxe V2 2x XFX 5870 [1000/1250] G.Skill 3x2GB 1600MHz 
Hard DriveOSMonitorKeyboard
X25-M 80GB, 320GB WD Scorpio Black Vista x64 2007FP-3007WFP-2007FP-1080p 32" OCN Ducky Brown 
PowerCaseMouse
Silverstone ST85F-P whiteOut G9 
  hide details  
Reply
i7 monsta
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 920 [4.2GHz] [1.325V] ASUS P6T Deluxe V2 2x XFX 5870 [1000/1250] G.Skill 3x2GB 1600MHz 
Hard DriveOSMonitorKeyboard
X25-M 80GB, 320GB WD Scorpio Black Vista x64 2007FP-3007WFP-2007FP-1080p 32" OCN Ducky Brown 
PowerCaseMouse
Silverstone ST85F-P whiteOut G9 
  hide details  
Reply
post #7 of 116
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by nafljhy View Post
that is ridiculously awesome and i have no idea why no one has commented!

i wants moar!!!!!
Thanks Nafljhy! I suppose the avalanche of pictures might be rather intimidating to anyone who does not have a fiber connection.

There will be more, don't worry. It might not be for a few days though, as there are some things that need to be taken care of first.

Quote:
Originally Posted by j0n3z3y View Post
Only because I had'nt seen the post Very nice,wish I had one of those
Well, now you've seen it! This is something I've been wanting to do for a few years. I'll be putting the machine right to use as soon as it is operational.

Quote:
Originally Posted by shinji2k View Post
If I had a few grand to spare I am certain this is what I would spend it on.
So you want a CNC router too? Perhaps with a little time and some careful saving you can build your own in the not-too-distant future. Believe me, it's worth the wait.
BlackBox
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Q6600 3.6ghz @ 1.35V Gigabyte X38-DS4 ATI 5870 4GB Corsair Dominator 1033Mhz 
Hard DriveOSMonitorKeyboard
Hitachi P7K500 320GB 64-bit Gentoo Linux / 64-bit Vista Ultimate Sceptre X24-WG 24" WUXGA Deck 82-key 
PowerCaseMouse
Corsair 750TX BlackBox (scratch built) Logitech G5 
  hide details  
Reply
BlackBox
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Q6600 3.6ghz @ 1.35V Gigabyte X38-DS4 ATI 5870 4GB Corsair Dominator 1033Mhz 
Hard DriveOSMonitorKeyboard
Hitachi P7K500 320GB 64-bit Gentoo Linux / 64-bit Vista Ultimate Sceptre X24-WG 24" WUXGA Deck 82-key 
PowerCaseMouse
Corsair 750TX BlackBox (scratch built) Logitech G5 
  hide details  
Reply
post #8 of 116
wow.
just wow.



glad youre liking the app - I have a new version to release soon
Chuckle2Tits
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Core i7 920 2.66 45nm D0 Foxconn BloodRage x58 EVGA GTX 285 6 GB Corsair Dom. DDR3 1600 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
1x300 GB WD Velociraptor Asus 16/48 DVD/CD ROM SATA Windows 7 Pro 64 bit Viewsonic VX2255wmb 22" LCD 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech USB wired Silverstone Decathalon 850 PolymorphiX (PMX_v1s) ms optical, wired 
Mouse Pad
ancient piece of crap :P 
  hide details  
Reply
Chuckle2Tits
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Core i7 920 2.66 45nm D0 Foxconn BloodRage x58 EVGA GTX 285 6 GB Corsair Dom. DDR3 1600 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
1x300 GB WD Velociraptor Asus 16/48 DVD/CD ROM SATA Windows 7 Pro 64 bit Viewsonic VX2255wmb 22" LCD 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech USB wired Silverstone Decathalon 850 PolymorphiX (PMX_v1s) ms optical, wired 
Mouse Pad
ancient piece of crap :P 
  hide details  
Reply
post #9 of 116
Thread Starter 
I must say it was pretty awesome adding 100 pictures in three fell swoops using drag and drop! That, and being able to see actual pictures as I write the log instead of urls makes everything some much faster and easier.

Might I ask what changes you are thinking of making for the next version of your app?
BlackBox
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Q6600 3.6ghz @ 1.35V Gigabyte X38-DS4 ATI 5870 4GB Corsair Dominator 1033Mhz 
Hard DriveOSMonitorKeyboard
Hitachi P7K500 320GB 64-bit Gentoo Linux / 64-bit Vista Ultimate Sceptre X24-WG 24" WUXGA Deck 82-key 
PowerCaseMouse
Corsair 750TX BlackBox (scratch built) Logitech G5 
  hide details  
Reply
BlackBox
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Q6600 3.6ghz @ 1.35V Gigabyte X38-DS4 ATI 5870 4GB Corsair Dominator 1033Mhz 
Hard DriveOSMonitorKeyboard
Hitachi P7K500 320GB 64-bit Gentoo Linux / 64-bit Vista Ultimate Sceptre X24-WG 24" WUXGA Deck 82-key 
PowerCaseMouse
Corsair 750TX BlackBox (scratch built) Logitech G5 
  hide details  
Reply
post #10 of 116
thanks mate
I have been using it for a few months (1018) it removes the batch launcher and some other various stuff in that menu and adds that previous functionality as part of the app code itself. Mostly things that I had in batch files to create worklog main folders, and internal worklog "days" folders and image management from a staging folder (from camera to staging) to the day folder. Probably not useful to most people unless they arrange their files and folders as I do

I did add a image deletion window where you can load your intended raw images from a dir, then go thru them, selecting the ones for deletion (for the final log, but not touching the raw backups - the system works if you snap multiple pics of the same intended image in case of blurs etc, which I do). I used to do that step separately, writing down the file names to delete, now its insanely quicker since its part of the UI and automated
Chuckle2Tits
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Core i7 920 2.66 45nm D0 Foxconn BloodRage x58 EVGA GTX 285 6 GB Corsair Dom. DDR3 1600 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
1x300 GB WD Velociraptor Asus 16/48 DVD/CD ROM SATA Windows 7 Pro 64 bit Viewsonic VX2255wmb 22" LCD 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech USB wired Silverstone Decathalon 850 PolymorphiX (PMX_v1s) ms optical, wired 
Mouse Pad
ancient piece of crap :P 
  hide details  
Reply
Chuckle2Tits
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Core i7 920 2.66 45nm D0 Foxconn BloodRage x58 EVGA GTX 285 6 GB Corsair Dom. DDR3 1600 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
1x300 GB WD Velociraptor Asus 16/48 DVD/CD ROM SATA Windows 7 Pro 64 bit Viewsonic VX2255wmb 22" LCD 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech USB wired Silverstone Decathalon 850 PolymorphiX (PMX_v1s) ms optical, wired 
Mouse Pad
ancient piece of crap :P 
  hide details  
Reply
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Case Mod Work Logs
Overclock.net › Forums › Case Mods & Cases › Builds & Case Mods › Case Mods › Case Mod Work Logs › [Complete] 2' x 3' Custom CNC Router from 80/20 Aluminum Extrusion