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[Complete] 2' x 3' Custom CNC Router from 80/20 Aluminum Extrusion - Page 8

post #71 of 116
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dgates80;12065517 
Hiya! Your worklog is proving to be a HUGE help in my FLA-100 build that I am doing right now! THANSKS!

Thanks for taking the time to register and letting me know know that my work log is helping you with your build! I really appreciate it. Good luck with your new FLA-100!
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post #72 of 116
Nice job on the router.

Thinking about getting the same 3 motor kit as yous for my lathe do you think they would have enough power hooked up direct? Most retro fit kits use a belt and pulley system and are 3 times the money. The handles turn really easy and I rarely cut over .010 at a time. Hard for me to judged the oz torque on the handles.

Do you think you could stop the motor shaft with you hand?
Know this may not be your area just thought I would start here.
    
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post #73 of 116
I've got to give you credit for tackling this. This has got to be one brutal project to undertake.
post #74 of 116
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by FannBlade;12998727 
Nice job on the router.

Thinking about getting the same 3 motor kit as yous for my lathe do you think they would have enough power hooked up direct? Most retro fit kits use a belt and pulley system and are 3 times the money. The handles turn really easy and I rarely cut over .010 at a time. Hard for me to judged the oz torque on the handles.

Do you think you could stop the motor shaft with you hand?
Know this may not be your area just thought I would start here.

I do not feel qualified to give a definitive answer to your question, so my best advice would be to contact Nate and/or ask around cnczone. Nate can be busy at times and may take a while to respond if that is the case, but he is very helpful and should be able to give you a friendly and knowledgeable response.

That said, I'd imagine these motors should work with your machine mounted direct without a pulley. I have no way of measuring the holding torque for the motor to verify the claimed 380 oz-in or generate any sort of torque curve, nor do I dare try to stop the motor from turning with my hand as my fingers would likely get crushed if I tried to grab the leadscrew while the machine was running.

Once you have enough torque to turn the leadscrews and jog the axis, any additional torque will go towards creating your cutting force(it is also important for acceleration). If you don't have enough torque for your desired feed rate, the stepper motor will miss steps which means your cutting will be inaccurate unless you lower the feed rate such that the motors are capable of producing the required cutting force.

In short, I think the motors will work but I have no idea what kind of feed rates you would be able to use for production. Once again my best advice to you is to get a second opinion and either crunch the numbers yourself or find someone you trust to crunch the numbers for you.
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post #75 of 116
Thank you for the detailed reply. I can adj feed rate accordingly.
I'll send Nate an e-mail and see what he thinks. I too think it will be enough torque, but like you said I'll ask around, You know somebody out there has tried it.
You a nice job on your router, also checked out your build logs...VERY NICE!

Thanks for your help.
    
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post #76 of 116
Quote:
Originally Posted by FannBlade;12998727 
Nice job on the router.

Thinking about getting the same 3 motor kit as yous for my lathe do you think they would have enough power hooked up direct? Most retro fit kits use a belt and pulley system and are 3 times the money. The handles turn really easy and I rarely cut over .010 at a time. Hard for me to judged the oz torque on the handles.

Do you think you could stop the motor shaft with you hand?
Know this may not be your area just thought I would start here.

Does you lathe have dovetailed ways? If so, how tightly are they adjusted? I don't think it will be a problem with the dovetailed ways, but I have seen some machine that are adjusted almost too tight in the quest for better accuracy. If you can turn the screws by hand easily, I think you will have no problem with the torque on the motors.

As far as the pulley system is concerned, I would recommend doing it with my motors if you can. The issue is that whenever you turn a screw and drive the nut one direction, a force equal to the amount of force it takes to move the nut is applied in the opposite direction. If the motor is direct connect that force will be transmitted to the shaft and you will wear out your motors faster. My kits solve the problem by putting a dual set of thrust bearings on the shaft so they take all the load instead of the motor. For the lathe, if you don't have a setup like that it might be more beneficial to run a pulley system with my motors. Can you take a couple of pictures of the screws and their mounting bearings and post them here?

As far as turning the motor shafts by hand, when the motors are disconnected from power you can turn them fairly easily. When you apply power to the motors, they will instantly lock up and you won't be able to turn them by hand without using a long lever. Also not that my motors don't have a double shaft on them so it's not possible to mount the hand cranks on the other side.

Let me know if you have any more questions.

Regards,

Nate
post #77 of 116
Thanks Nate
I have the gibs pretty loose and move easily I only need to maintain +/- .005.
I'm looking into some pulleys and cog belts for the reason you mentioned, so I can still you the lathe manually. Do you think a 2 to 1 ratio would be about right? I do plan on making an idler pulley just encase I need to change the gearing a little.
That's a pretty sweet motor kit you have and plan on building my system around it.
Since I have a lathe mill combo it will give me the best of both worlds. Looks like I will be able to build it for under a $1000 with your software.

Thank you for taking the time to reply....be prepared I will have tons of question!
    
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post #78 of 116
Quote:
Originally Posted by FannBlade;13035866 
Thanks Nate
I have the gibs pretty loose and move easily I only need to maintain +/- .005.
I'm looking into some pulleys and cog belts for the reason you mentioned, so I can still you the lathe manually. Do you think a 2 to 1 ratio would be about right? I do plan on making an idler pulley just encase I need to change the gearing a little.
That's a pretty sweet motor kit you have and plan on building my system around it.
Since I have a lathe mill combo it will give me the best of both worlds. Looks like I will be able to build it for under a $1000 with your software.

Thank you for taking the time to reply....be prepared I will have tons of question!

The pulley ratio depends on how many turns per inch your leadscrews are. My kits have screws that are 2 turns per inch which give a resolution of .00025" per step. If you have a 2+ turns per inch leadscrew, I recommend 1 to 1 or 2 to 1. If you have less than 2 turns per inch, you want to go 2 to 1 to 4 to 1. The idler pulley is a great idea, though the simpler solution may just be to mill the motor mounting holes as slots.

Regards,

Nate
post #79 of 116
I'm getting reading to start me build. How did the aluminum bars work out for you instead of the steel rails? Also anything youed change?
Thanks
post #80 of 116
Thread Starter 
Don't bother with aluminum rails. Either buy yours from Nate or make them from steel. Aluminum is too soft and it will wear down slowly since the steel bearings are much harder. I regret going with aluminum and will be buying steel replacement rails as soon as I can justify spending more money on my router.

If I were to start over I would change the frame design to allow greater travel along the longest axis. Nate's official design can fit a 2' x 3' piece of material on the table, but the travel on the 3' axis is actually about 33-34" so you won't be able to use the entire sheetl. Not the end of the world but it would be nice not to leave a 3 inch wide strip of waste material after every run.

Keep in mind that if you extend the table, you will need a slightly longer leadscrew for that axis. The standard length rails might be long enough but I would check that first. The most important thing is to increase the distance between the legs. On my machine the rails are long enough for more than 36" travel but the gantry will hit the legs under the table long before reaching the end of the rails.

Aside from that, you need to find a way to keep the rails as clean as possible. While I have not done it yet myself, I would highly recommend that you consider getting a dust shoe and vacuum system. The cardboard skirts I made for the longest axis works fairly well, but the other two axes still get pretty dirty after an hour or so of cutting.

Finally, my router is way too low to the ground. Put yours on a table or tweak the frame design so that you can work without having to bend over. Your back will thank you.
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