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[Complete] 2' x 3' Custom CNC Router from 80/20 Aluminum Extrusion - Page 9

post #81 of 116
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpz;13767189 
Don't bother with aluminum rails. Either buy yours from Nate or make them from steel. Aluminum is too soft and it will wear down slowly since the steel bearings are much harder. I regret going with aluminum and will be buying steel replacement rails as soon as I can justify spending more money on my router.

If I were to start over I would change the frame design to allow greater travel along the longest axis. Nate's official design can fit a 2' x 3' piece of material on the table, but the travel on the 3' axis is actually about 33-34" so you won't be able to use the entire sheetl. Not the end of the world but it would be nice not to leave a 3 inch wide strip of waste material after every run.

Keep in mind that if you extend the table, you will need a slightly longer leadscrew for that axis. The standard length rails might be long enough but I would check that first. The most important thing is to increase the distance between the legs. On my machine the rails are long enough for more than 36" travel but the gantry will hit the legs under the table long before reaching the end of the rails.

Aside from that, you need to find a way to keep the rails as clean as possible. While I have not done it yet myself, I would highly recommend that you consider getting a dust shoe and vacuum system. The cardboard skirts I made for the longest axis works fairly well, but the other two axes still get pretty dirty after an hour or so of cutting.

Finally, my router is way too low to the ground. Put yours on a table or tweak the frame design so that you can work without having to bend over. Your back will thank you.

Agree on all points. Especially the dust shoe and vacuum system. Note, it's expensive, but Kent (http://www.kentcnc.net/nc/category/65-dust-shoes-accessories.aspx) makes a really nice dust shoe...

Regards,

Nate
post #82 of 116
I want to make one really bad. I'm subbing so I can refer to this.
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Trinity
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post #83 of 116
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpz;13767189 
If I were to start over I would change the frame design to allow greater travel along the longest axis. Nate's official design can fit a 2' x 3' piece of material on the table, but the travel on the 3' axis is actually about 33-34" so you won't be able to use the entire sheetl. Not the end of the world but it would be nice not to leave a 3 inch wide strip of waste material after every run.

I was thinking 50x 26 Frame size.
post #84 of 116
Quote:
Originally Posted by shinji2k;10761246 
i should have never subscribed to this thread sad-smiley-002.gif.

There must be someone in central ohio that has a cnc setup and needs a new best friend cheers.gif.

+1
post #85 of 116
crowat
Drive around your industrial neighborhoods. You'd be amazed on how many machine, tool&die, metal working outfits with CNCs you shall find.
These are often real ol'school shops, who still understand to work for a case of beer! or 20 bucks in the coffee till.
     
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post #86 of 116
At work, I'm currently in charge of getting a 7"x7" Zen Toolworks machine up and running for PCB milling and other small tasks. It is sure a blast and I can only imagine how much fun I would have with this large of a surface and capabilities...
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post #87 of 116
Should I make one? I could make whatever I want but it's not as precise as laser (looking at FTW PC) but I can engrave stuff. Hmm...
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post #88 of 116
Forget this post, I accidentally posted in the wrong topic as i have multiple OCN tabs:S
Sorry!

-Rexel
Edited by Rexel - 6/8/11 at 3:00pm
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post #89 of 116
@jpz,

how much total did it cost you to build the fla100 excluding the electronics?

Thanks!
post #90 of 116
JPZ,

I found a link to this thread from CNC Zone. I am building a FLA-300, and found your thread very useful.

I was wondering if I could get a DXF or SKP version of the files you used to make the acrylic case. I don't have VCarve, so can't use those files.

Thanks,
Tom
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