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CoolIt ECO A.L.C. Modding (Complete) - Page 2

post #11 of 23
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bukva View Post
maybe you could add vga block to the loop to se how it cops with higher heat source
It already doesn't cope with my i7 at load . What i was trying to do was to see how a dual radiator effected temperatures. Unfortunately I'm currently plagued with a defective motherboard so modifiede temps will not come soon, but I do intend to proceed with the modification. I'll be forced to fall back to a celeron for a week or two .
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post #12 of 23
I know this thread is quite "old" but I was wondering: what happened to your CoolIT ECO?

I see you are using a Megahalems now
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post #13 of 23
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by CLoNi View Post
I know this thread is quite "old" but I was wondering: what happened to your CoolIT ECO?

I see you are using a Megahalems now
Put off the mod because the tubing I used was porous. The stuff I ordered comes tomorrow, which = the continuation of this .
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post #14 of 23
Considering trying this mod with my eco alc, mounting the 240mm in the top of my CM Elite 430.
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post #15 of 23
Thread Starter 
Lack of update for a while, I know, but I had other issues to work out first. I received my parts today and managed to finish up. 1x Swiftech MCRES rev2, two 1/4" ID fittings, and some Tygon non-porous tubing.

Finding a location for the reservoir


After the tubing was cut and fitted, prepped for filling.


Filling was a little bit difficult. The ECO has a weak pump, so I basically had to gravity feed it while the reservoir wasn't sealed shut. Once I had the loop mostly filled with fluid, I filled the reservoir to the max and sealed it shut. Then I let it run for a few minutes. All the air was gone from the tubing and pump, but there were still pockets of it in the radiator because of the arrangement of fins. After about 5 minutes of rotating the radiator and allowing the bubbles to leave and enter the reservoir, the loop was completely air free.


I had to keep the reservoir upright in order to keep air from entering the tubing and getting stuck in the radiator while installing it. I think it turned out pretty good in the end. It now runs at a max of 73C during LinX on the hottest core, 62C on the lowest. During folding the numbers are 72 and 60 respectively. 60 is very low, it has to do with either the IHS being warped badly or between the core and IHS. I probably will lap it to get better temperatures across the cores rather than on one core. The radiator is a Black Ice Pro 240 with two Scythe GentleTyphoon AP-15s. It runs decently cooler than a Megahalems with a deafening Panaflo on it, which maxed out at 76C. Final result, quieter and cooler .


The original unmodified ECO ran up to 76C with the i7 at STOCK. These other temperatures were all done at 4GHz.
Edited by LemonSlice - 7/29/10 at 6:12pm
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post #16 of 23
hy whats the inner and outer diameter of your tubes in mm??
post #17 of 23
Hi, Ive been tossing around some idea's for my eco alc.

Let me run this by you guys,

What if I toss the Rad completely. And run the line straight to a Large aquarium 4'x3'x2'.

If my theory is correct the aquarium will be able to dissipate any heat with the water surface area X volume.

I would mount the intake at the bottom of the aquarium and the output near the top. With the rad no longer restricting flow my temps should improve quite a bit.

it would no longer be a closed loop, but i imagine i wont have any problems with evaporation since i will be dealing with so much water.
    
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post #18 of 23
problem with that is that if its an open top aquarium, you'll have sediments and other crap entering the loop messing up the pump
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post #19 of 23
I could run a simple aquarium filter for that. Any sediment will settle on the bottom, we arent talking alot of flow with this pump, I can mount it a couple inches from the bottom and probably not have any issues.


Some aquarium filters would actually be large enough to mount a radiator inside the filter reservoir if i want the loop to remain closed. But i think the radiator would just hinder the flow and not provide as much cooling as a
LARGE reservoir would.

My main concern is keeping the tubing as short as possible.

Another option is buying a 1366 cpu water block, without a pump.

The reason for not having a pump would be to create a gravity fed water cooling system.

To do this i would have to drill a hole in the side/bottom of a medium size to large aquarium. The weight of the water would create LOTS of flow, better flow then any pump you would buy. and then simply feed the water back in the reservoir.

I am reluctant to do this with the aquarium i currently have, it is HUGE and drilling a hole would pretty much ruin it. I think this could work with an aquarium much smaller.

If i could actually perfect the design.. figure out how much water volume i need for cooling and pressure purposes if done correctly really would be awesome. Never have to worry about a pump dying.
Edited by MadOblivion - 1/16/11 at 10:44pm
    
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post #20 of 23
ITS ALIVE, forget about that whole aquarium thing lol. I have a question about your eco setup. Why did you not include the original 120mm rad in the loop? Was it a space issue? And do you think if you included into your loop with the 240 it would of improved temps any?
    
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