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Waterchiller build - Page 2

post #11 of 130
Quote:
Originally Posted by hvacgaspiping
Hey Wowza,

If you don`t want to scramble the compressor, you need to be careful about letting the frostback get past the accumulator and into the compressor. That`s the job for the accumulator (that little black expanded bulb in the suction line returning to the compressor). Running that compressor with no heat load on it, ie without heat transfer of the water, is extremely hard on it. It would only take a half dozen or so times of your name written in frost to knock out the compressor. Also, do NOT remove any fins from the condenser; I gave that advice in an earlier thread about the evaporator that another guy was going to immerse in his reservoir. I see you removed the fan blade that was going to the evaporator; good move, `will cut down on the air noise. You`re on the right track. You can get some Armaflex (brand) sheet closed cell rubber insulation at most refrigeration supply houses. Even though these places are wholesale, I think they will still sell this to you, as that would be no threat to the tradesmen competition wise. `Same goes for the Armaflex pipe insulation, which comes in varying thicknesses and I.D.s. If you`re going to run your refrigerant piping any distance over 20 feet, you need to vapor seal each joint of pipe insulation. Black duct tape will be good enough, unless you want to use spray on contact glue. A better evaporator to immerse in the water was shown in the earlier thread, which consisted of a specially coiled copper tube specifically made for this type of setup. But to do this you need to be prepared to do some refrigeration work, which would take the right tools and materials (freon-22, refrigerant scale, torch, vacuum pump, copper couplings,refrigerant access taps w./schrader valves, 15% silv-floss, and the skills and know to use them). If you have any more questions relating to this topic, ie refrigeration and chillers, let 38 years of experience give you a hand.
Can't complain about that, good work mate!!
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post #12 of 130
Thread Starter 
@ Tuchan, I read that at XS, they painted and polished their setup, mainly for looks.. Didn't do anything to their preofrmance

@ hvacgaspiping, Thanks for the thoughts, I was planning on insulating the compressor pipes that should let me deal with the condensation problem somewhat. I wasn't planning on removing fans from the condenser, that is more or less suscide.

I ran by ace to pickup my cooler that I am planning on putting the evap in, but they didn't have it in yet. They will by tommrow. There isn't much I can do right now untill the pipes come along with that cooler.
    
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post #13 of 130
Very nice work man, I bet that presler will really excel when its cooled right down. I just hope you have another air conditioner running in your room because that chiller is going to expel loads of hot air! Make sure to condensation proof everything real good aswell, but I'm sure you know all about this already. Good luck.
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post #14 of 130
Hey Wowza,

Why not set that chiller outside and make it a split system. What I`m talking about is setting the compressor/condenser unit outside and pipe the refrigerant lines through a wall/window to the evaporator inside your house where it sits in the reservoir. The only other control you`ll need for the outside unit is a condenser fan cycling control for cold weather operation. This control would connect to the refrigerant liquid line (smaller refrigerant line to the evaporator) via of an access tee with a schrader tap. This control would keep the refrigerant pressures at the correct level for proper operation when it`s cold outside. When the weather warms up it would just keep the fan run normally, instead of cycling on and off. You just have to make sure that you have the glycol mix concentrated enough for winter time, in case the pump quit or got shut off accidentally.
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post #15 of 130
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by hvacgaspiping
Hey Wowza,

Why not set that chiller outside and make it a split system. What I`m talking about is setting the compressor/condenser unit outside and pipe the refrigerant lines through a wall/window to the evaporator inside your house where it sits in the reservoir. The only other control you`ll need for the outside unit is a condenser fan cycling control for cold weather operation. This control would connect to the refrigerant liquid line (smaller refrigerant line to the evaporator) via of an access tee with a schrader tap. This control would keep the refrigerant pressures at the correct level for proper operation when it`s cold outside. When the weather warms up it would just keep the fan run normally, instead of cycling on and off. You just have to make sure that you have the glycol mix concentrated enough for winter time, in case the pump quit or got shut off accidentally.
My parents wouldn't let me do any house remodeling in the process of this build Idealy that is what I would do, use a full setup with the compressor + conden. outside and the evap inside. I would probably go LN2 before I did that though. Also, the coldest it gets on a chilly night is 40F, usually not nearly that cold. What do you recommend for insulating the compressor again? Could I use the pipe wrap or would I need something else?

Btw, I will give you all an update tonight
    
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post #16 of 130
hey man, nice. if you haven't already read i'm making a waterchiller too. its a good project and not too expensive
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post #17 of 130
You don`t need to insulate the compressor itself, just the suction line and accumulator connecting to the compressor. The compressor shouldn`t get cold enough during normal operation to cause condensation. If something weird happens to cause it to get cold enough to have condensation form on it, then there is some improper operating condition. If this is worrying you, then you can cover the area where the suction line enters (maybe a 2" to 3" diameter area) it with closed cell rubber insulation (Armaflex). You have to be careful here, so as not to cover too much area. If you do, it could cause the compressor to run too hot and also present a fire hazard with the insulation getting too warm.
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post #18 of 130
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by hvacgaspiping
You don`t need to insulate the compressor itself, just the suction line and accumulator connecting to the compressor. The compressor shouldn`t get cold enough during normal operation to cause condensation. If something weird happens to cause it to get cold enough to have condensation form on it, then there is some improper operating condition. If this is worrying you, then you can cover the area where the suction line enters (maybe a 2" to 3" diameter area) it with closed cell rubber insulation (Armaflex). You have to be careful here, so as not to cover too much area. If you do, it could cause the compressor to run too hot and also present a fire hazard with the insulation getting too warm.
Ok, thanks for the tips, I was wondering if I should get that accumulator wrapped up.

Humm I got some more pics to post, just got in my chiller today. Tommrow I am going to cruise around to find some De-icer. Hope I can get something for low enough temps.. I'll attach a few pix in a second


    
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post #19 of 130
well you could get some plumbing antifreeze. The great thing about the plumbing antifreeze is that its non-toxic unlike normal antifreeze. Its also good for down to -50C and i dont think you will go much past -30.
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post #20 of 130
Thread Starter 
Thanks, but any kind of Antifreeze will be too thick for any pump below 0C.

Ok I got my tubing today after waiting a week and a half for UPS to deliver it at their own leisure. Later, I am going to cut into the cooler and custom fit in the tubes. That is my next project. Over the weekend, I went searching for De-icer, though unfortunatly I couldn't find any. All that was in stock was the "summer blend" which isn't good past 0c. I hope I can get it instores to I don't have to pay the ripoff price for shipping.

    
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