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Waterchiller build - Page 7

post #61 of 130
Quick question: Why the Water Wetter? Just for the anti-corrosion proerties of it? Because at the temps you are looking for, it's not going to do much for you. It will, however, do a great job at stinking up your water and coating everything it touches in a film. I know because I use it in my water setup. I get great temps and no corrosion, but don't let that crap dry. Wipe it up/rinse it off in a hurry cause the dried film it leaves behind is messy. In concentrate form it will stain like a mofo, so be careful while pouring.

Other than that I CAN'T WAIT TO SEE THIS THING IN ACTION MAN!! Awesome project!

EDIT: I use 8 capfulls of Water Wetter per gallon of water. Keeps the stink down and isn't so messy.
post #62 of 130
Friggin double post. Please delete this one. I love my ISP here at work...
post #63 of 130
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skipper
I have followed your work WOWZA, and I think it looks really good and promising.

I have a Q about a waterchiller idea, that I have been fumbeling with in my head. I know this is kind of your treath, but I think it falls under it.
Here goes:

I asume you use a really powerfull A/C unit, because you want your fluid to remain at a constant very cool temp. Could this be done with a smaller compressor, say one from an old freezer, if combined with a larger amount of fluid to absorb the heat?

I guess that what I really need to know is, what are the relation between the A/C units BTU output, and the heatoutput from the CPU.

Reason I would like to go that way is, that I could make a system that don't say no more than a fridge then.

Well .. keep up the good work.

Regards
Skipper
Thanks skip, to answer your Q's, I don't use a very big A/C unit (5000BTU's), most available are 10k+. Actually in this case, the bigger isn't usually better. If you have more BTU's, the de-icer (or whatever you use) will take longer to get cold than a smaller one. Yes, it will support a bigger setup and more cooling, but the tradeoff is fairly big. 5k BTU A/C unit is usually on the upper end of a chiller build to start. If you use a smaller compressor, then use less liquid, because it has a smaller cooling capacity. Depending on the HP rateing on the compressor, almost anything would work. But the preformance would vary by a lot.

The relation between the CPU output and the A/C output depends on what coolent you are using and the overall efficiency of the evaporator. I know a few people have actually used the chiller from school water fountains and actually reached some subzero temps idleing, load they were higher, which puts an A/C unit ontop.

@ Ren- I use waterwetter for the anti-corrosion properties, basically there is 4 different metals that I count that the fluid is running through. If I use 5-10% of the waterwetter in the mixture, it will help out a lot. It won't do anything for my temps, basically I bought this because it's cheaper than HydrX and is widely available in most autoparts shops. It will only help temps in the 70+C for cars and such.
    
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post #64 of 130
Thanks WOWZA. I'l have to work it trough then.

Oh! And so sorry for misspelling your name. Didn't mean to offend you. Just a schmuck on a keyboard.
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post #65 of 130
Thread Starter 
Oh no worries skipper, I really didn't see it till you pointed it out

ok small update,
Remember when I started up the A/C unit the first time, and there was frost growing on the accumulator lines? (to refresh your memory, here is the pic) Well, that is very hard on the accumulator and hurts your temps, so we insulate it so it won't sweat anymore. I started with a layer of pipe wrap, then added a layer of the cork tape (same stuff we used on the mobo) and then a final layer of pipe tape. That should do the trick. Next I am waiting on my pump which might come tommrow or monday, then I can get to insualting the tubing and stuff like that.
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post #66 of 130
Was the suction line not insualted when you get the unit?

The suction line is the line that the suction accumulator is on, the suction accumulator is there to allow any liquid refrigerant to boil off before it goes back to the compressor, good news is it's doing it's job, the frost stop's about 5mm away from the compressor from what i see.

If you do get liquid return then it will damage the compressor.

with the added load on the unit (once it's chilling a liquid) you won't/shouldn't get any frost on the suction accumulator.

Your temp's atm will be quite badly afffected because the suction line is not insulated, i'd advise going out and getting some armaflex/rubatex pipe insulation.
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post #67 of 130
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by PetrolHead
Was the suction line not insualted when you get the unit?

The suction line is the line that the suction accumulator is on, the suction accumulator is there to allow any liquid refrigerant to boil off before it goes back to the compressor, good news is it's doing it's job, the frost stop's about 5mm away from the compressor from what i see.

If you do get liquid return then it will damage the compressor.

with the added load on the unit (once it's chilling a liquid) you won't/shouldn't get any frost on the suction accumulator.

Your temp's atm will be quite badly afffected because the suction line is not insulated, i'd advise going out and getting some armaflex/rubatex pipe insulation.
It wasn't insulated when I first got it. I guess it wasn't made for chillers. Thanks for the tips

Ok, now everybody,
Please go back and read the 1st post of this thread! I forgot to mention somebody.
    
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post #68 of 130
Thread Starter 
Ok, well I got my Danner Mag-Drive 5 today from Lando (thanks dude), 500GPM The only downside is the 1/2" Threads, which is a slight problem since I am using 3/8" ID tubing (5/8" OD)... Does anybody know of some good, non-plastic barbs that I could buy? Thanks

Edit: Found the adapter I need here
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post #69 of 130
Most good size Ace stores have great Lawn/Pump sections with brass fittings in both female/male for like $2.50...............and you meant 500GPH I hope?
  
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post #70 of 130
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dryadsoul
Most good size Ace stores have great Lawn/Pump sections with brass fittings in both female/male for like $2.50...............and you meant 500GPH I hope?
Yea, I am probably going to swing by ACE or a home depot tommrow and see what I can find. I know I am going to need a coupling and some threaded barbs and probably some teflon tape to play it safe.

Oh, gosh, 500 GPM would be one hella of a pump, heh.
    
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