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Waterchiller build - Page 8

post #71 of 130
Yeah they, Ace, got both the copper coupling and barbs in 3/8, 1/2 and 5/8 so you should find what you need alright. And Ace doesn't have a problem with exchange, here anyway. The local Redneck Heaven, HD, although 4 times the size of Ace, doesn't have as good a selection of metal barbs(and I live in hicksville too). Thanks for the encouragement on the water chiller build, cuz once I get this going I'm taking it to chill also:

  
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post #72 of 130
Thread Starter 
Is that an Apogee block in the setup? If it is, that is going to be a tough sucker to insulate. Looking good though, did you make a drop coil for your evap? (looking at that metal bucket, wondering what's inside) Good Luck on your build, if you have any q's, post in here.

btw, nice jar of zip ties
    
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post #73 of 130
No, ROTF*****, the metal bucket would be my spendy DIY Folgers res.
Note, chrome paint ain't made for polyvinyl, and my revision res has a top inlet & bottom outlet with better designed barb fittings. Yes that's an Apogee block.
But due to procrastination and arthritis, I have yet to lap the chipset/HSF of either the GPU/North bridge.................so, I'm still on air

Zip ties were 650 for $4.98 at HD. What water block would you recomend for chiller setup? BTW, having tried all loop component positions for best temps, after discovering that nylon thread tape has a short life, I used some guitar jack heat shrink on the heater cores metal barbs and found a better leak proof solution
  
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post #74 of 130
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dryadsoul
No, ROTF*****, the metal bucket would be my spendy DIY Folgers res.
Note, chrome paint ain't made for polyvinyl, and my revision res has a top inlet & bottom outlet with better designed barb fittings. Yes that's an Apogee block.
But due to procrastination and arthritis, I have yet to lap the chipset/HSF of either the GPU/North bridge.................so, I'm still on air

Zip ties were 650 for $4.98 at HD. What water block would you recomend for chiller setup? BTW, having tried all loop component positions for best temps, after discovering that nylon thread tape has a short life, I used some guitar jack heat shrink on the heater cores metal barbs and found a better leak proof solution
An apogee block will probably crack at -20F, basically they wern't made for the cold. They are also very hard to insulate around the connectors, it's fairly hard to insulate basic blocks for starters. The simpler the design, the better, meaning, less insulation work and probably less chance of cracking. You don't want any plastic type block (TDX ect) which would break instantly.

Depending on your tubing size, you could try the DD RBX with the brass top only (anything other than brass will crack).. Look around and see what you can find, I bought the Swiftech MCW6000-775 block (LGA775 3/8" tubing block) which is probably one of the easiest to install. Your version would be either Swiftech MCW6002-64 or the Swiftech MCW6000-64 for the 3/8" tubing. They are hard to find, I bought mine basically NIB from a guy on another forum site. Keep your eyes open, and you will find something.

unfortunatly, the D-Tek custom blocks, like this are now discontinued, which would be your best bet.
    
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post #75 of 130
Is it safe to assume that if the D-Tek works than any Acetal (Delrin) top block should work? Or should I suck up to Fstfrddy now and get in line for his next all metal block(just being rhetorical)

BTW I'm running ½" tubing and only went with the Apogee due to budget, cuz I really wanted a Silverprop. But starting to think a basic square metal top would be the best bet.
  
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post #76 of 130
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dryadsoul
Is it safe to assume that if the D-Tek works than any Acetal (Delrin) top block should work? Or should I suck up to Fstfreddy now and get in line for his next all metal block(just being rhetorical)
Yes, it's safe to assume that, though insulating that Apogee isn't going to be fun, trust me.
    
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post #77 of 130
Maybe with a custom bolt down adapter and metal barbs??
Thinkin' it's better to go with a basic square metal top block though.
Only went with the Apogee outta thrift, first WC build and all.
  
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post #78 of 130
dryadsoul, if you want to get rid of that apogee I might be interested.
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post #79 of 130
Only if you can suck up to Fstfrddy for me first
But, seriously, I'll keep ya in mind. I've had it since February 7th and it still
hasn't seen any CPU action You got any metal tops to trade????
  
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post #80 of 130
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dryadsoul
Only if you can suck up to Fstfrddy for me first
But, seriously, I'll keep ya in mind. I've had it since February 7th and it still
hasn't seen any CPU action You got any metal tops to trade????

no, I don't. lol, I'm trying to put together a wc setup... all I have so far is a gpu block, pump, some fluid and some fans. . I'm not sure when fstfrddy will be making another block, but if you talk to him you can probably be on his list to get one. in the meantime you should prob try to find a different alaternative as they take a while to make
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