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**Official ASUS P5Q PRO Turbo/PRO/Turbo Owners Club** (All ASUS P45 Mobo Owners Welcome!) - Page 526

Poll Results: Do you prefer the new OCN?

 
  • 35% (32)
    Yes!
  • 15% (14)
    No!
  • 14% (13)
    Yes and No!
  • 34% (31)
    Don't give a damn about it! (LOL)
90 Total Votes  
post #5251 of 6459
Ok, you awesome people. Here's my BIOS settings, one by one. This allows me to get INTO Windows at 4.35GHz (my previously stable OC for 3 years on this chip with lesser cooling) but it's not stable.
Unstable 4.35GHz BIOS (Click to show)

Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual
CPU Ratio Setting: 10.0
FSB Strap to North Bridge: AUTO
FSB Frequency: 433
PCIE Frequency: 100

DRAM Frequency: DDR2-866MHz
DRAM Command Rate: 2N
DRAM CMD Skew on Channel A: AUTO
DRAM CMD Skew on Channel B: AUTO
DRAM CLK Skew on Channel A: AUTO
DRAM CLK Skew on Channel B: AUTO
DRAM Timing Control: Manual
CAS# Latency: 4
RAS# to CAS# Delay: 4
RAS# PRE Time: 4
RAS# ACT Time: 12
RAS# to RAS# Delay: AUTO
REF Cycle Time: AUTO
WRITE Recovery Time: AUTO
READ to PRE Time: AUTO

READ to WRITE Delay (S/D): AUTO
WRITE to READ Delay (S): AUTO
WRITE to READ Delay (D): AUTO
READ to READ Delay (S): AUTO
READ to READ Delay (D): AUTO
WRITE to WRITE Delay (S): AUTO
WRITE to WRITE Delay (D): AUTO

WRITE to PRE Delay: AUTO
READ to PRE Delay: AUTO
PRE to PRE Delay: AUTO
ALL PRE to ACT Delay: AUTO
ALL PRE to REF Delay: AUTO

DRAM Static Read Control: Disabled
Ai Clock Twister: Lighter
Ai Transaction Booster: Manual
Common Performance Level: 10
Pull in of CHA XXX: ENABLED (all)

CPU Voltage: 1.27500v (1.26v actual)
CPU PLL Voltage: 1.52v
North Bridge Voltage: 1.31v (1.34v actual)
DRAM Voltage: 2.10v (2.18v actual)
FSB Termination Voltage: 1.30v (1.23v actual)
South Bridge Voltage: AUTO
SB 1.5v Voltage: AUTO
Loadline Calibration: Enabled
CPU GTL Voltage Ref: 0.63x
NB GTL Voltage Ref: 0.63x
DRAM Controller Voltage REF: AUTO
DRAM Channel A Voltage REF: AUTO
DRAM Channel B Voltage REF: AUTO

CPU Spread Spectrum: Disabled
PCIE Spread Spectrum: Disabled


Whew!

Although I can boot into Windows with these settings, it isn't stable. Will edit with temps in a second.
The over 4GHz efforts and failures... (Click to show)
EDIT: Hah. And that's why I posted before stress testing. I went BSOD as soon as I turned on P95's workers. So I've now bumped to 1.28125v on the CPU and will try again. Currently idling, however, at 41 degrees. TOO DANG HOT!

EDIT 2: Ok, so that went BSOD as soon as I started P95 as well. So now I've bumped the BIOS setting one more notch and P95 doesn't cause a BSOD anymore. However, one worker dies within 3 seconds, and the other worker keeps working, but the core reaches a temp of 77 before I stop it after 90 seconds.

Frankly, I don't think more volts is what is needed here. It seems to help, but somehow, the setup is running much hotter than it did before. With a very mild overclock of 3.8GHz or so, and a 433 FSB, I don't have to bump the voltage on the VCore at all, and the temps max at 63, and hover around 59, stable. Juicing up the CPU here only seems to make everything get really hot, really fast.

I'm delivering 1.27v (actual) to the CPU right now which makes it cook under load, it fails P95 in seconds, and meh. Something just doesn't seem right in all that.

EDIT 3: And I've just loaded up my stable 400x10 setup, which has bios settings of 1.2250v CPU, 1.5v PLL, 1.31v NB, 2.1v DRAM, and 1.3v FSB. PC Probe reports 1.21v CPU, 1.34v NB, 2.18v DRAM, and 1.23v FSB. Under load, this is currently hovering between 69 and 71 70 and 73 degrees (still seems a little toasty) and maxing at 74 75 76 so far. (Keeps going up as I write this.) Which makes it a wall I've never before encountered. In other words, the H100 is not doing as well as the V60 I had before.

Here's a few pics of the machine...

450
450
450450
450
450

And with that, I welcome any further thoughts. smile.gif Thank you so much!
Edited by RedStapler - 2/19/12 at 2:11am
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post #5252 of 6459
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedStapler View Post

Love for everyone offering assistance. smile.gif xoxox.

Okay, so I can go ahead and push the FSB voltage (which is likely to increase temps) but I'd point out that I've been able to run 433 x 6 with these voltages for 6 hours of P95 large in place FFT's totally solidly, so I assume that means the FSB is not causing me any problems. I'm happy to give it a shot though.

I'm using an NZXT 5 Channel fan controller, 30W per channel. Channel 1 is my 2 front fans, #2 is the bottom fan, 3 and 4 are the ultra kaze intakes at the top, pushing fresh through the rad, and 5 is the rear fan. All fans are running at 100%. I have no unused fan ports, but will be upgrading the rear, bottom and front fans sometime soon, however, not as a solution to this issue.

The pump controller has two connectors for the three wires coming out of it. Two are connected to a standard molex, and provide the power to the pump. The single remaining lead coming out of the pump controller is connected to a 3 pin connector which, as far as I can tell, is to make sure my motherboard will boot up instead of thinking I have no CPU cooler installed. I have connected both to their respective inputs. PC Probe reports that the CPU fan (the only fan the Mobo knows anything about, and which is actually the pump motor) is running at 2177rpm, which I have read is the appropriate standard for the H100 pump - 2100-2200 rpm. Because it gets its power off a molex, it's at 100% or 0%, right? Also, without the one wire plugged into the CPU_FAN header, the Mobo tells me to go to hell until I install a CPU fan.

@OCMan Well, originally I'd had the fans set up to pull case air across the rad and out the case, but found that reversing the airflow dropped temps about 7 degrees or so. Fresh air is apparently very welcome for the rad. Also, the Ultra Kaze fans are 38mm and there's about 27.5mm of space between my NB heatsink and the bottom side of the rad/fan mounting plate at the top of the case. The fans, in other words, HAVE to go in the top.

Since you're asking for some pics of my BIOS, I'm going to go ahead and pull my girl out from under the desk, and take some pics and post them here in a few, along with a report of every BIOS setting.

Thanks again everyone. +rep rep rep. biggrin.gif


I see the benefit why Corsair recommend users to do the cool air in method since their H-50 intro.

 

But by doing so, more hot air is trapped in the chassis... so make sure the hot air is also going out from the back in order to lower the overall temp inside the chassis. wink.gif

 

It would help the overall system stability if the chassis ventilation is sufficient and the direction of cool air in hot out is done right. rolleyes.gif

 

Sorry, just to make certain that the fans for the H-100 are installed above the rad if you're doing cool air in... (a little against physics principles though) when the rad is installed to the top side. tongue.gif

     
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post #5253 of 6459
Quote:
Originally Posted by ocman View Post


I see the benefit why Corsair recommend users to do the cool air in method since their H-50 intro.

 

But by doing so, more hot air is trapped in the chassis... so make sure the hot air is also going out from the back in order to lower the overall temp inside the chassis. " rel="http://files.overclock.net/images/smilies/wink.gif">wink.gif

 

It would help the overall system stability if the chassis ventilation is sufficient and the direction of cool air in hot out is done right. rolleyes.gif

 

Sorry, just to make certain that the fans for the H-100 are installed above the rad if you're doing cool air in... (a little against physics principles though) when the rad is installed to the top side. tongue.gif


Hi OC Man! Yeah, my front and bottom fans exhaust. My top and rear fans intake.

Hot air definitely is being removed from the case, and exhausted out the front. I took pics so you can see how the rad/fans are installed. thumb.gif
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post #5254 of 6459
So... yeah... not to pester, but any chance that the BIOS settings I typed up in here are leading anyone to any insights as to why I'm approaching 80 degrees on a fracking 4.0GHz OC? It is, in my opinion, totally inappropriate. There's no reason I should be going up ten degrees just adjusting my OC from 3.9 to 4.0 GHz but that's what's happening. So my guts say it's gotta be a setting I'm screwing up, but hopefully someone else will be able to shed some light. It's either that, or my H100 is failing me for some reason.

I'm afraid the next step will be lapping the processor, but since I never had to do that before to achieve a stable, safe 4.35GHz OC it seems absurd that I should have to do so now. Also, I have zero interest in actually doing that and am more likely to give up and leave it at a stupidly hot 4.0. I had hoped the pics and BIOS settings would lead someone here to a EUREKA moment. If not, I'll try reseating it in a couple days when I am not so angry about it and have had a chance to go out and buy a TIM that's worth a poop.

The real trouble is that I'm stuck here, because I will NEVER put this H100 cooler on a new Ivy Bridge chip if I can't demonstrate that it's actually capable of doing its job properly, which at this moment it most definitely is not doing. If that's not may fault, I hope I figure that out asap so I can RMA it or take a shotgun to it, or whatever. At the very least, it's not doing me any favors for the 100 bucks I spent on it, and I'd like to get my money back if it's going to be worthless.

The stapler is definitely getting overly frustrated about this, so there's going to have to be a cooling off period for both me and the chip, I think. mad.gif

Maybe I need an H100 for my mood...
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post #5255 of 6459
definitely remount the cpu block. even if you think you mounted it right the previous time, there's still a chance the block is not 100% contacting the CPU. i'm willing to bet that's happened to most OCNers at some point!

as for the BIOS, LLC sometimes causes lockups with a loooow vCore and it seems you have LLC on and vCore way too low for that. Hopefully the H100 is not indeed defective and remounting fixes it, then you can crank the vCore up as high as it goes. Wolfdale chips are incredibly hard to abuse. There is a great thread on ... xtremesystems? I think... about some guy trying to kill a Wolfdale with too high vFSB for a long period of time and failed, and I've put my CPU through a lot of stuff too (and it's lapped smile.gif)

anyway, you can crank up the vCore. Even on an E8600 you should be into 1.3V range at that freq.

I would also try to set RAM timings back to default and starting again from Auto on all the voltage settings but the vCore, but that's just what I would do. The BIOS seems pretty much identical to the P5Qs so I'm just suggesting steps I've taken when I had similar problems.
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post #5256 of 6459
Quote:
Originally Posted by Petrol View Post

definitely remount the cpu block. even if you think you mounted it right the previous time, there's still a chance the block is not 100% contacting the CPU. i'm willing to bet that's happened to most OCNers at some point!
as for the BIOS, LLC sometimes causes lockups with a loooow vCore and it seems you have LLC on and vCore way too low for that. Hopefully the H100 is not indeed defective and remounting fixes it, then you can crank the vCore up as high as it goes. Wolfdale chips are incredibly hard to abuse. There is a great thread on ... xtremesystems? I think... about some guy trying to kill a Wolfdale with too high vFSB for a long period of time and failed, and I've put my CPU through a lot of stuff too (and it's lapped smile.gif)
anyway, you can crank up the vCore. Even on an E8600 you should be into 1.3V range at that freq.
I would also try to set RAM timings back to default and starting again from Auto on all the voltage settings but the vCore, but that's just what I would do. The BIOS seems pretty much identical to the P5Qs so I'm just suggesting steps I've taken when I had similar problems.

THanks for the assist, petrol. I'm going to order a good TIM and when it gets here I'll try reseating.

I'll try turning off LLC, but if I push the volts to 1.3 on the vCore in BIOS, my temps are dangerous. If I push the volts to 1.3 ACTUAL on the vCore, my BIOS setting will be closer to 1.3875 and again, temps are not even remotely safe.

Also, I've already once started from scratch on this OC. Unless I'm really too stupid to follow the directions I've been following step by step, which I'll admit I may well be, then I don't need to start from scratch a second time, and doing so without any guidance about what I may need to do differently this time will only bring me right back here, so yeah.

The ram timings and voltage are per spec for 800MHz and like I say, this ram OC'ed to 867 with 4.4.4.12 timings for 3 years rock solid stable. I can do large FFT in place stress testing and be totally stable at 433x6 with the NB/FSB at current values. Doesn't that mean the failures are on the CPU, not the FSB/Ram?

Thanks again. +repping and all that.
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post #5257 of 6459
Setup and pictures looks fine to me. smile.gif

The only question I have on the BIOS is that you have DRAM Command rate set at 2N. I thought usually DDR2 is to run with 2T? confused.gif I could be wrong though, and I don't think it has anything to do with the high temperatures you're seeing.

And I think I understand how your H100 is plugged in with the various power connectors. My H70 is set up a little different. Corsair says to plug the fans on the radiator into the CPU_FAN, and there's a single fan header for the pump that they say to put into an AUX_FAN port and set to 100%, for the H70. But everything you've said sounds fine to me for the H100.

So, I suppose the best bet would be go with Petrol's suggestion of remounting the CPU block. I know everyone says to mount to "finger-tip tight," but I like to go just slightly more, just to make sure everything is "snug". wink.gif Also, make sure to double-check each bolt after you've tightened all four, as the first one or two could have loosened when tightening down the others, if that makes sense.

And lastly, I really like the look of your case! thumb.gif That EVGA 580 looks like a beast of a card! (Three PCI-e power connectors! eek.gif)
post #5258 of 6459
Thread Starter 

EDIT: If you are to choose again for a cpu cooler without spending more than a $100. Get Noctua NH-D14 instead. biggrin.gif

 

Like I've suggested in your thread... if you want, try install your ASUS V60 again with the current BIOS settings... and see if it does better or worse in temps. wink.gif

 

Checked your post in the other thread... biggrin.gif


Edited by ocman - 2/19/12 at 12:01pm
     
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post #5259 of 6459
Quote:
Originally Posted by jetpak12 View Post

Setup and pictures looks fine to me. smile.gif
The only question I have on the BIOS is that you have DRAM Command rate set at 2N. I thought usually DDR2 is to run with 2T? confused.gif I could be wrong though, and I don't think it has anything to do with the high temperatures you're seeing.
And I think I understand how your H100 is plugged in with the various power connectors. My H70 is set up a little different. Corsair says to plug the fans on the radiator into the CPU_FAN, and there's a single fan header for the pump that they say to put into an AUX_FAN port and set to 100%, for the H70. But everything you've said sounds fine to me for the H100.
So, I suppose the best bet would be go with Petrol's suggestion of remounting the CPU block. I know everyone says to mount to "finger-tip tight," but I like to go just slightly more, just to make sure everything is "snug". wink.gif Also, make sure to double-check each bolt after you've tightened all four, as the first one or two could have loosened when tightening down the others, if that makes sense.
And lastly, I really like the look of your case! thumb.gif That EVGA 580 looks like a beast of a card! (Three PCI-e power connectors! eek.gif)

Yes, the fingertip-good-n-tight is sort of what I shoot for as well, and having some familiarity with not only changing out CPU's and coolers but also car tires for a couple decades now, I know about the importance of the cross pattern tightening methodology and totally get that it's done to ensure level, even tightening. That's not to say I didn't screw it up when I was doing it; once I have the IC Diamond 7 in hand I can try reseating it and we may well discover that this resolves the majority of my issues. I don't talk about it much, but I actually do make mistakes from time to time. tongue.gif I also make a point to not tighten any of the screws all the way the first time, but instead I sort of make 2 or 3 rounds of the cross-pattern, tightening a little bit each time, again trying to ensure it goes down evenly, and making sure they all register as the proper tightness, but like I've already acknowledged, things happen.

More than one person has said now that the settings don't look amiss really. So I *think* I'm going to end up hanging back (and having a zen breathing moment or two) while waiting for the goo. Meanwhile I'll probably hunt down a good fan replacement for the v60 cooler, get down to the hardware store for 600-2500 grit sandpapers, and get ready to lap this b!tch when I have new goo.

THANK YOU not only for the help, but also the compliment on my setup. Made me smile about my beloved beast for the first time this morning.

I really want some of those lovely individually jacketed UV reactive cables but I haven't yet found them, and have other fiscal priorities for the build first. (Bling will be the last thing I spend on, obviously.) The EVGA Classified card is sort of a shock when you first see it. But I have to tell you, Batman Arkham City at 1900x1200 with every setting at max and an average of 26 FPS is pretty staggering. Paired with the Samsung 830 SSD, the game rarely, if ever, has any kind of noticable stutter. The only time, really, is when it's saving, which I attribute to the fact that my save games are on an antique 180GB HDD, not the SSD. I need to get stable and cool again so I can play. frown.gif
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post #5260 of 6459
Quote:
Originally Posted by ocman View Post

If you are to choose again for a cpu cooler with spending more than a $100. Get Noctua NH-D14 instead. biggrin.gif

 

Like I've suggested in your thread... if you want, try install your ASUS V60 again with the current BIOS settings... and see if it does better or worse in temps. " rel="http://files.overclock.net/images/smilies/wink.gif">wink.gif

 

Checked your post in the other thread... biggrin.gif


I'll look at the Noctua if I end up changing again, but I hope to not have to do that. I find the H100's appearance to be elegant and appealing, and it shows off my pretty board, while the Noctua is... damn near all you see, and it's not at all pretty. Kinda angry looking. Not that that's a bad thing. I like angry looking PC's, but I had gotten excited about the cleaner look. I could be convinced. smile.gif
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