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**Official ASUS P5Q PRO Turbo/PRO/Turbo Owners Club** (All ASUS P45 Mobo Owners Welcome!) - Page 527

Poll Results: Do you prefer the new OCN?

 
  • 35% (32)
    Yes!
  • 15% (14)
    No!
  • 14% (13)
    Yes and No!
  • 34% (31)
    Don't give a damn about it! (LOL)
90 Total Votes  
post #5261 of 6493
Thread Starter 

Oh I missed checking the pictures you have uploaded here RedStapler... Awesome looking components you got there. But I noticed your case fan at the back is pull air in instead of pull air out.

 

Also, try power off the system and unplug the power cord, then dust clean the whole system with a can of compress gas or air from Falcon or something. It's a little dusty which leads to overheat and stability problem. wink.gif

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by RedStapler View Post

I'll look at the Noctua if I end up changing again, but I hope to not have to do that. I find the H100's appearance to be elegant and appealing, and it shows off my pretty board, while the Noctua is... damn near all you see, and it's not at all pretty. Kinda angry looking. Not that that's a bad thing. I like angry looking PC's, but I had gotten excited about the cleaner look. I could be convinced. smile.gif


Troubleshoot it and make a decision soon before it's too late to get a refund or exchange... wink.gif

 

Since water cooling closed loop products are getting cheaper and cheap... have you also consider getting XSPC Rasa 750 RX360 WaterCooling Kit?

 

Btw, during a computer store opening day a few months ago last year, H-100 was on sale for under $80 CAD... I put both H100 and  Antec Kuhler 920 (for under $60) back on the shelf... didn't buy them... and then 15 minutes later, they are all gone. doh.gif


Edited by ocman - 2/19/12 at 12:49pm
     
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post #5262 of 6493
Quote:
Originally Posted by ocman View Post

Oh I missed checking the pictures you have uploaded here RedStapler... Awesome looking components you got there. But I noticed your case fan at the back is pull air in instead of pull air out.

 

Also, try power off the system and unplug the power cord, then dust clean the whole system with a can of compress gas or air from Falcon or something. It's a little dusty which leads to overheat and stability problem. " rel="http://files.overclock.net/images/smilies/wink.gif">wink.gif


Actually it's pretty clean in there though a good can of air would help make it spotless.

Yes, the rear fan is on intake, along with the two rad fans. I have REVERSED air flow from the usual direction. I thought I'd posted this before but I've had a lot of posts that I got half way through and lost due to BSOD or something. The top and rear fans are on intake. The bottom and front fans are on exhaust. This way I have positive case pressure and a flow from one corner to the opposite corner of the case. If I turn the rear fan back to normal, and have it exhaust, then my system's only intake fans would be the two over the rad.

Is that what you are meaning to suggest I try? If you think it's a good idea, I'll give it a shot but as I was researching case airflow design I understood it to be most important to ensure that I was moving air in from one corner over to the opposite corner and out. The benefit I could imagine to reversing the rear fan now would be that it would pull air that's brought in across the rad (which is hot) out of the case faster than pulling it all the way to the front, after crossing the back of the HUUUGE, OC'ed video card, and over my HDD's and SSD.

I wonder if the fact that the card is basically as wide as the interior space is basically making it really hard to move air from one corner to the opposite corner, and if I might be better treating the spaces above and below the video card as two separate "chambers" with their own intake and exhaust? I would have to flip the bottom fan so it's on intake again, and flip the rear so it's on exhaust again. That's an interesting possibility... anybody have any thoughts on that one?

edit: saw your post about the return on the cooler. Not sure how long I have to return something to Fry's, but I'll check it out. Surely at least 14 days. Good advice to check it out. I got it on sale here for 90 USD which I thought was a great price.
Edited by RedStapler - 2/19/12 at 12:27pm
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post #5263 of 6493
Gah. P95 failed at 11hrs 45mins on my 400x10 OC.

Not only is it too hot, it's NOT stable. Harumph. Well. I am getting very short on ideas here beyond waiting for good TIM and a reseat.
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post #5264 of 6493
I have tested in Crysis 2 benchmark 2500K @ 4.2GHz vs my previous setup Q9550 @ 3.9GHz..


Q9550 @ 3.9GHz: Avg FPS= 78

crysis23900mhzwithddr3a.jpg


2500K @ 4.2GHz: Avg FPS= 86

crysis2with2500k42ghz.jpg


CHEERS..
     
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post #5265 of 6493
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedStapler View Post

Gah. P95 failed at 11hrs 45mins on my 400x10 OC.

Not only is it too hot, it's NOT stable. Harumph. Well. I am getting very short on ideas here beyond waiting for good TIM and a reseat.


That's so close to hit the minimum 12hrs... meaning you are close to stable only require minor tweaking other than containing the temps. wink.gif

 

Mind post your current BIOS settings?

 

@ KingT Good stuff! wink.gif Try do a 3.9GHz vs 3.9GHz comparison also just to be fair. thumbsupsmiley.png

 

P.S.: I often edit my post many times... please check my last post again RedStapler!

 

P.P.S.: My Post 1888!!!


Edited by ocman - 2/19/12 at 12:52pm
     
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I can repost my BIOS settings in a minute here, sure, but I'm finding some VERY interesting results right now, just by turning off LLC... I seem to have dropped about 6 degrees from my temps at 100% load on my 400x10 OC. Maxing at 70, hovering at 65. I've bumped up the FSB and NB voltages a little bit but confirmed that simply disabling LLC drops the load temps. It's an improvement! I'm not exceeding 71 right now for 400x10, and that's with higher voltages than before when I was cooking at 77, but with LLC off. Strange. Strange.
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post #5267 of 6493
Thread Starter 

Quote:

Originally Posted by RedStapler View Post

I can repost my BIOS settings in a minute here, sure, but I'm finding some VERY interesting results right now, just by turning off LLC... I seem to have dropped about 6 degrees from my temps at 100% load on my 400x10 OC. Maxing at 70, hovering at 65. I've bumped up the FSB and NB voltages a little bit but confirmed that simply disabling LLC drops the load temps. It's an improvement! I'm not exceeding 71 right now for 400x10, and that's with higher voltages than before when I was cooking at 77, but with LLC off. Strange. Strange.


Good trial and error!

 

LLC mainly minimize VDroop... or VCore drop.

 

By turning it off... you are basically letting the voltage to drop more... Less voltage ---> less heat produced. biggrin.gif


Edited by ocman - 2/19/12 at 4:42pm
     
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post #5268 of 6493
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedStapler View Post

Yes, the fingertip-good-n-tight is sort of what I shoot for as well, and having some familiarity with not only changing out CPU's and coolers but also car tires for a couple decades now, I know about the importance of the cross pattern tightening methodology and totally get that it's done to ensure level, even tightening. That's not to say I didn't screw it up when I was doing it; once I have the IC Diamond 7 in hand I can try reseating it and we may well discover that this resolves the majority of my issues. I don't talk about it much, but I actually do make mistakes from time to time. tongue.gif I also make a point to not tighten any of the screws all the way the first time, but instead I sort of make 2 or 3 rounds of the cross-pattern, tightening a little bit each time, again trying to ensure it goes down evenly, and making sure they all register as the proper tightness, but like I've already acknowledged, things happen.

More than one person has said now that the settings don't look amiss really. So I *think* I'm going to end up hanging back (and having a zen breathing moment or two) while waiting for the goo. Meanwhile I'll probably hunt down a good fan replacement for the v60 cooler, get down to the hardware store for 600-2500 grit sandpapers, and get ready to lap this b!tch when I have new goo.

THANK YOU not only for the help, but also the compliment on my setup. Made me smile about my beloved beast for the first time this morning.

I really want some of those lovely individually jacketed UV reactive cables but I haven't yet found them, and have other fiscal priorities for the build first. (Bling will be the last thing I spend on, obviously.) The EVGA Classified card is sort of a shock when you first see it. But I have to tell you, Batman Arkham City at 1900x1200 with every setting at max and an average of 26 FPS is pretty staggering. Paired with the Samsung 830 SSD, the game rarely, if ever, has any kind of noticable stutter. The only time, really, is when it's saving, which I attribute to the fact that my save games are on an antique 180GB HDD, not the SSD. I need to get stable and cool again so I can play. frown.gif

Haha, when I was writing my post, I was thinking about tire changing as well. I was about to mention the analogy, except I didn't think it was a good one, seeing as how you want your lug nuts much tighter. wink.gif

And I actually just finished running some Batman AC benches for a comparison between a Q9550 I got recently and my current E8500 (yes, ocman, I'm still working on it tongue.gif). For me, 1920x1080 gives me an average of 63 44 fps with everything set on high, tessellation normal, and PhysX off. At 5760x1080, I get an average of 23 19 with the same settings. This is with my 6970.

I'm glad you're starting to get some headway, it does indeed sound like you're at least almost stable. smile.gif

EDIT: Fixed incorrect FPS values.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ocman View Post

Since water cooling closed loop products are getting cheaper and cheap... have you also consider getting XSPC Rasa 750 RX360 WaterCooling Kit?

I'm actually going to buy a Rasa 750 RX360 kit myself, it seems to be the best for what you get. I already have a waterblock for my 6970, just need to buy the Rasa kit. thumb.gif

@ KingT

Benches look good, I wish I had Crysis 2 to run my comparisons with. I'll just have to stick with the original. smile.gif Did your min FPS increase much? I've heard that a faster CPU leads to increased min FPS, while a faster GPU can lead to increased max FPS.
Edited by jetpak12 - 2/19/12 at 4:29pm
post #5269 of 6493
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jetpak12 View Post

And I actually just finished running some Batman AC benches for a comparison between a Q9550 I got recently and my current E8500 (yes, ocman, I'm still working on it tongue.gif). For me, 1920x1080 gives me an average of 63 fps with everything set on high, tessellation normal, and PhysX off. At 5760x1080, I get an average of 23 with the same settings. This is with my 6970.

I'm actually going to buy a Rasa 750 RX360 kit myself, it seems to be the best for what you get. I already have a waterblock for my 6970, just need to buy the Rasa kit. thumb.gif
 


Great jetpak12! I'm eager to see the performance differences while you still have both systems! applaud.gif

 

I'm interested in getting one too... but that's more like in 2015... and by then, I would probably be getting XSPC Rasa "RX720 or even RX1080" WaterCooling Kit instead... tongue.gif

 

@ KingT With 1155 platform, you got USB3 and SATA6 and other goodies too...  I'm envying... rolleyes.gif

 

P.S.: I'll be buying ASUS U3S6 addon card this coming week... rolleyes.gif Let's hope job interview goes smooth too biggrin.gif


Edited by ocman - 2/19/12 at 4:21pm
     
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post #5270 of 6493
@jetpak12 smile.gif I'm getting that avg fps with both tessellation and physx set on high. If I turn off physx my FPS will double. wheee.gif
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(15 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i7 2600k ASRock Z77 Extreme-4M NVIDIA GeForce GTX 580 Corsair  
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
Samsung 840 SSD Seagate Barracuda ST3000DM001 Seagate ST4000DM000 Asus Multi DVD Burner 
CoolingOSMonitorMonitor
Corsair H100 Windows 7 Ultimate x64 Planar PXL 2430 MW Sceptre 46" LCD TV 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
IBM Model M Antec TPQ 1000 NZXT Tempest 410 Elite Black Logitech Performance MX 
Mouse PadOther
FUNC Industries Ceton InfiniTV 4 PCIe 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core 2 Duo E8600 Maximus II Formula Radeon HD 4870 G.Skill Pi Series 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Western Digital Caviar Black Asus Lightscribe DVD Burner Asus v-60 Windows 7 Ultimate x64 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Viewsonic VX2235wm (22" Widescreen) Microsoft Sidewinder X6 OCZ 750w Antec 300 
MouseMouse PadAudio
Razer Diamondback Alienware (Func) Supreme FX X-Fi (MoBo Paired) 
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