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**Official ASUS P5Q PRO Turbo/PRO/Turbo Owners Club** (All ASUS P45 Mobo Owners Welcome!) - Page 528

Poll Results: Do you prefer the new OCN?

 
  • 35% (32)
    Yes!
  • 15% (14)
    No!
  • 14% (13)
    Yes and No!
  • 34% (31)
    Don't give a damn about it! (LOL)
90 Total Votes  
post #5271 of 6481
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedStapler View Post

@jetpak12 smile.gif I'm getting that avg fps with both tessellation and physx set on high. If I turn off physx my FPS will double. wheee.gif

Sounds about right then. smile.gif And I apologize, but I made a mistake, it was 63 max fps, 44 average. doh.gif

Tessellation isn't a strong point of the AMD cards, so I left it at normal for the benches. I also have a GTX460 for PhysX. Averaged 23 fps with PhysX on CPU, 32 fps on the 460.

Also, 19 average on three screens, and 18 with PhysX (about the same between PhysX on CPU/GPU, here it seems that the 6970 is the bottleneck).

I also just finished up some Metro 2033 benches. The PhysX is basically non-existent in this game lol.
post #5272 of 6481
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedStapler View Post

Actually it's pretty clean in there though a good can of air would help make it spotless.

Yes, the rear fan is on intake, along with the two rad fans. I have REVERSED air flow from the usual direction. I thought I'd posted this before but I've had a lot of posts that I got half way through and lost due to BSOD or something. The top and rear fans are on intake. The bottom and front fans are on exhaust. This way I have positive case pressure and a flow from one corner to the opposite corner of the case. If I turn the rear fan back to normal, and have it exhaust, then my system's only intake fans would be the two over the rad.

Is that what you are meaning to suggest I try? If you think it's a good idea, I'll give it a shot but as I was researching case airflow design I understood it to be most important to ensure that I was moving air in from one corner over to the opposite corner and out. The benefit I could imagine to reversing the rear fan now would be that it would pull air that's brought in across the rad (which is hot) out of the case faster than pulling it all the way to the front, after crossing the back of the HUUUGE, OC'ed video card, and over my HDD's and SSD.

I wonder if the fact that the card is basically as wide as the interior space is basically making it really hard to move air from one corner to the opposite corner, and if I might be better treating the spaces above and below the video card as two separate "chambers" with their own intake and exhaust? I would have to flip the bottom fan so it's on intake again, and flip the rear so it's on exhaust again. That's an interesting possibility... anybody have any thoughts on that one?

edit: saw your post about the return on the cooler. Not sure how long I have to return something to Fry's, but I'll check it out. Surely at least 14 days. Good advice to check it out. I got it on sale here for 90 USD which I thought was a great price.


Just in case... biggrin.gif

 

Well, the way I'm accustomed in doing is to have top and back (and maybe upper side slot) for exhaust of hot air... while lower side slot, front, and bottom for intake of cool air. wink.gif

 

If there's just one side slot for fan, use it as intake. thumbsupsmiley.png This should work for most of the systems. thinking.gif

     
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post #5273 of 6481
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedStapler View Post

Yes, the fingertip-good-n-tight is sort of what I shoot for as well, and having some familiarity with not only changing out CPU's and coolers but also car tires for a couple decades now, I know about the importance of the cross pattern tightening methodology and totally get that it's done to ensure level, even tightening. That's not to say I didn't screw it up when I was doing it; once I have the IC Diamond 7 in hand I can try reseating it and we may well discover that this resolves the majority of my issues. I don't talk about it much, but I actually do make mistakes from time to time. tongue.gif I also make a point to not tighten any of the screws all the way the first time, but instead I sort of make 2 or 3 rounds of the cross-pattern, tightening a little bit each time, again trying to ensure it goes down evenly, and making sure they all register as the proper tightness, but like I've already acknowledged, things happen.
More than one person has said now that the settings don't look amiss really. So I *think* I'm going to end up hanging back (and having a zen breathing moment or two) while waiting for the goo. Meanwhile I'll probably hunt down a good fan replacement for the v60 cooler, get down to the hardware store for 600-2500 grit sandpapers, and get ready to lap this b!tch when I have new goo.
THANK YOU not only for the help, but also the compliment on my setup. Made me smile about my beloved beast for the first time this morning.
I really want some of those lovely individually jacketed UV reactive cables but I haven't yet found them, and have other fiscal priorities for the build first. (Bling will be the last thing I spend on, obviously.) The EVGA Classified card is sort of a shock when you first see it. But I have to tell you, Batman Arkham City at 1900x1200 with every setting at max and an average of 26 FPS is pretty staggering. Paired with the Samsung 830 SSD, the game rarely, if ever, has any kind of noticable stutter. The only time, really, is when it's saving, which I attribute to the fact that my save games are on an antique 180GB HDD, not the SSD. I need to get stable and cool again so I can play. frown.gif

thanks for the rep thumb.gif I have plenty of experience with seating blocks and car wheels too (by hand, no impact wrench!) so I also thought there was no way I could screw up seating a block but it has indeed happened. The block sat in a funny way that it seemed completely flat on the IHS and wouldn't allow further tightening. I guess some small detail was askew and it made the mount screwy. Who knows, the point is that it sometimes just happens regardless of how carefully we approach it, and it's the likeliest explanation for such a huge unexplained temperature rise. Is there any reason you can't remount now, reusing the TIM already between the block and CPU? Reusing TIM is awesome (providing it's not the cheap stuff that cures), I get my best temps with TIM that's been worn so thin it's barely visible on the CPU smile.gif

If you can start with a more coarse grit sandpaper than 600 that would really save you some time. I started at around there and it took me literally hours to get the job done. The plating is thick and getting most of it off with a coarse grit before getting close to the copper where it needs a lighter touch will save you at least a half hour.

Oh yeah, I meant to comment on your case also. Looks great!
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post #5274 of 6481
Quote:
Originally Posted by ocman View Post

 

Well, the way I'm accustomed in doing is to have top and back (and maybe upper side slot) for exhaust of hot air... while lower side slot, front, and bottom for intake of cool air. " rel="http://files.overclock.net/images/smilies/wink.gif">wink.gif

 

If there's just one side slot for fan, use it as intake. thumbsupsmiley.png This should work for most of the systems. thinking.gif


Right. This is how I normally would have it set up, and it is also how I set it up originally. However. biggrin.gif I reversed it because drawing cool fresh air across the rad instead of warm case air dropped my temps 7-8 degrees. thumb.gif
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post #5275 of 6481
Quote:
Originally Posted by Petrol View Post

thanks for the rep thumb.gif I have plenty of experience with seating blocks and car wheels too (by hand, no impact wrench!) so I also thought there was no way I could screw up seating a block but it has indeed happened. The block sat in a funny way that it seemed completely flat on the IHS and wouldn't allow further tightening. I guess some small detail was askew and it made the mount screwy. Who knows, the point is that it sometimes just happens regardless of how carefully we approach it, and it's the likeliest explanation for such a huge unexplained temperature rise. Is there any reason you can't remount now, reusing the TIM already between the block and CPU? Reusing TIM is awesome (providing it's not the cheap stuff that cures), I get my best temps with TIM that's been worn so thin it's barely visible on the CPU smile.gif
If you can start with a more coarse grit sandpaper than 600 that would really save you some time. I started at around there and it took me literally hours to get the job done. The plating is thick and getting most of it off with a coarse grit before getting close to the copper where it needs a lighter touch will save you at least a half hour.
Oh yeah, I meant to comment on your case also. Looks great!

Thank you... I think the case could look better, but I really took my time with making sure the wiring was very neat. It could use a little clean up, but until I finalize things it's not worth stressing over.

Regarding reusing TIM: I have never heard anyone say anything other than to use a fresh application of TIM and never to reuse it. Maybe with the shin etsu that comes preapplied it would be okay, but I feel like it's probably better to just wait for the other stuff, no? I'm almost assuredly going to lap the thing, but I doubt I'll do that before establishing at least equivalent performance as compared to the v-60. Otherwise, something's wrong, and taking the time to LAP would only obfuscate the problem.

If I was going to tinker with reusing the existing TIM, what would be the way? Just spread it smoothly around the block/cpu surface? Should I clean it off one of them? I guess I dont want to use my finger for that.
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post #5276 of 6481
People probably say not to reuse TIM because some of them cure from all the heat cycling and is not so effective reused. I've found AS5 and MX-4 to give even better performance with reuse, but that is because everyone tends to apply too much TIM as it's really hard to apply the bare minimum you need to fill the gaps. TIM inhibits thermal transfer technically, but it's necessary to fill the gaps caused by scratches and uneven surfaces on the IHS or cooler base and provide the most surface area contact. I like to start by applying a very little bit in the middle of the CPU then twisting the cooler on top so it spreads out very thin and mounting a few times to make sure the TIM is spread across the whole chip. It doesn't have to be evenly because mounting it will create equal pressure to spread the TIM where it needs to go anyway.
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post #5277 of 6481
Quote:
Originally Posted by Petrol View Post

People probably say not to reuse TIM because some of them cure from all the heat cycling and is not so effective reused. I've found AS5 and MX-4 to give even better performance with reuse, but that is because everyone tends to apply too much TIM as it's really hard to apply the bare minimum you need to fill the gaps. TIM inhibits thermal transfer technically, but it's necessary to fill the gaps caused by scratches and uneven surfaces on the IHS or cooler base and provide the most surface area contact. I like to start by applying a very little bit in the middle of the CPU then twisting the cooler on top so it spreads out very thin and mounting a few times to make sure the TIM is spread across the whole chip. It doesn't have to be evenly because mounting it will create equal pressure to spread the TIM where it needs to go anyway.

Well, tomorrow, when I'm home alone, after I get some housework done, I will give this a try. I will pull the block off and reseat it without any new goo at all, and just see what happens. I'm pretty defeated/worn out on these issues today but there's really not much to do but press on. rolleyes.gif
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post #5278 of 6481
you don't have much to lose! don't forget that in a pinch, toothpaste can double as TIM smile.gif
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Core2 Duo E7400 Asus P5Q Hyper-X  Sandisk 
OSPower
Fedora 22 Thermaltake 650W 
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post #5279 of 6481
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Petrol View Post

you don't have much to lose! don't forget that in a pinch, toothpaste can double as TIM smile.gif
 


Rep'd specool.gif

     
CPUCPUMotherboardGraphics
Intel Core 2 Quad Q9650 E0 Batch# L846B998 (4GH... Intel Pentium Dual Core E5200 R0 @ 4GHz with 1.... ASUS P5Q PRO Turbo (This is the replacement for... EVGA 512-P3-N987-TR GeForce 9800 GT HDMI 512MB ... 
GraphicsGraphicsRAMRAM
DIAMOND All in Wonder Premium Graphics with HDT... SAPPHIRE HD 6950 2GB OC GDDR5 (Partially burned... 2 X 2GB OCZ XTC Platinum PC2-8500 DDR2 (OCZ2P10... 2 X 2GB Kingston HyperX PC2-8500 DDR2 (KHX8500D... 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
2 X Seagate Barracuda 7200 1.5 TB 7200RPM SATA ... Seagate Expansion 1.5 TB USB 2.0 Desktop Extern... Western Digital My Passport 1TB USB 3.0 portabl... Seagate FreeAgent Go 880GB USB 2.0 Portable Drive 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Beyond Micro 250GB External Drive USB 2.0 (Maxt... ADATA S102 Pro 32GB Superior Series USB 3.0 Fla... Corsair Flash Voyager GTR CMFVYA32GBGT2 32GB US... Patriot x-mini 8GB USB 2.0 Flash Drive 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Intel® SSD 520 Series 240GB 2.5in SATA 6Gb/s 25... Intel® SSD 320 Series SSDSA2CW080G3K5 2.5" 80GB... WD MyBook Live 2TB external hard drive Hitachi XL Desk 3TB 3.5" USB 2.0 External Hard ... 
Optical DriveOptical DriveOptical DriveCooling
LG BH10LS30 Blu-Ray Writer 10X BD-R 16X DVD-RW ... 2 X ASUS DRW-24B1ST (not in use) 2 X Samsung SH-S223C (retired) Corsair H-50 (partially burned and trashed) 
CoolingCoolingOSMonitor
Cooler Master Hyper 212+ (sold) 6 X Cooler Master Green LED Silent Fan 120mm (R... Windows 7 SP1 64bit 28" HANNSPREE ST289MUB LCD HDTV 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Microsoft Digital Media Keyboard 3000 Corsair HX Series CMPSU-620HX 620W (partially f... NZXT Gamma Classic Mid-Tower (trashed) Microsoft Comfort 4500 Wired Mouse (Red) 
Mouse PadAudioAudioAudio
Steelseries QcK Pro Gaming (3.2cm x 2.7cm) mous... Integrated 7.1 Altec Lansing VS3251 5.1 Surround Sound System Sennheiser HD518 Headphone 
AudioAudioOtherOther
Shure SRH840 Kingston HyperX Cloud Stereo Headset with Micro... ASUS U3S6 Expansion Card Samsung CLP-300 Colour Laser Printer 
OtherOtherOtherOther
HP OfficeJet 5510 All in one Printer 3.5" Rosewill All in one card reader + 3 USB po... Elephant USB 2.0 Sim Card & Memory Card Reader SD/SDHC cards 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Celeron D 340J @ 3.23 GHz MachSpeed Matrix P4M800 Asus A9250 128MB AGP 8X 2 x 1GB Patriot DDR400 Memory 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOptical DriveCooling
320GB Seagate 7200RPM HDD LG 16X DVD Rewriter LG 52X CD Rewriter Masscool CPU HSF 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows XP + Windows 7 55" SONY BRAVIA EX710 Series LED HDTV Logitech's (White) Included 400W 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Power Up Blue 2526 Quantum Series ATX Mid-Tower Verbatim's (up to 2000 dpi with blue light) a thin one (got it for free) onboard 
AudioOther
cheap 5.1 sound card 3.5" Japanese brand name card reader + floppy d... 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Celeron M 370 C0 @ 2GHz (oc'ed) Dell's B120 (Chipset: Intel i915GMS/i910GML) Intel Graphics Media Accelerator 900 2 X 1GB OCZ PC2 5300 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
40GB 5400RPM / Toshiba MK4032GAX Combo Drive: 24x/10x/24x CD-RW and 8x DVD-ROM Dell Inspiron B120 WinXP SP3 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
14.1" WXGA TFT Display with 1280 x 800 resolution Dell Inspiron B120 Dell Inspiron B120 Dell Inspiron B120 
MouseAudioOtherOther
Microsoft Explorer Mini Mouse with BlueTrack Te... SigmaTel Sound Card Dell Wireless 1390 WLAN ExpressCard/34 802.11b/g 56Kbps modem and 10/100 Mbps Integrated Network... 
Other
Ports: 3x USB 2.0, VGA out, 1x ExpressCard/54 (... 
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CPUCPUMotherboardGraphics
Intel Core 2 Quad Q9650 E0 Batch# L846B998 (4GH... Intel Pentium Dual Core E5200 R0 @ 4GHz with 1.... ASUS P5Q PRO Turbo (This is the replacement for... EVGA 512-P3-N987-TR GeForce 9800 GT HDMI 512MB ... 
GraphicsGraphicsRAMRAM
DIAMOND All in Wonder Premium Graphics with HDT... SAPPHIRE HD 6950 2GB OC GDDR5 (Partially burned... 2 X 2GB OCZ XTC Platinum PC2-8500 DDR2 (OCZ2P10... 2 X 2GB Kingston HyperX PC2-8500 DDR2 (KHX8500D... 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
2 X Seagate Barracuda 7200 1.5 TB 7200RPM SATA ... Seagate Expansion 1.5 TB USB 2.0 Desktop Extern... Western Digital My Passport 1TB USB 3.0 portabl... Seagate FreeAgent Go 880GB USB 2.0 Portable Drive 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Beyond Micro 250GB External Drive USB 2.0 (Maxt... ADATA S102 Pro 32GB Superior Series USB 3.0 Fla... Corsair Flash Voyager GTR CMFVYA32GBGT2 32GB US... Patriot x-mini 8GB USB 2.0 Flash Drive 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Intel® SSD 520 Series 240GB 2.5in SATA 6Gb/s 25... Intel® SSD 320 Series SSDSA2CW080G3K5 2.5" 80GB... WD MyBook Live 2TB external hard drive Hitachi XL Desk 3TB 3.5" USB 2.0 External Hard ... 
Optical DriveOptical DriveOptical DriveCooling
LG BH10LS30 Blu-Ray Writer 10X BD-R 16X DVD-RW ... 2 X ASUS DRW-24B1ST (not in use) 2 X Samsung SH-S223C (retired) Corsair H-50 (partially burned and trashed) 
CoolingCoolingOSMonitor
Cooler Master Hyper 212+ (sold) 6 X Cooler Master Green LED Silent Fan 120mm (R... Windows 7 SP1 64bit 28" HANNSPREE ST289MUB LCD HDTV 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Microsoft Digital Media Keyboard 3000 Corsair HX Series CMPSU-620HX 620W (partially f... NZXT Gamma Classic Mid-Tower (trashed) Microsoft Comfort 4500 Wired Mouse (Red) 
Mouse PadAudioAudioAudio
Steelseries QcK Pro Gaming (3.2cm x 2.7cm) mous... Integrated 7.1 Altec Lansing VS3251 5.1 Surround Sound System Sennheiser HD518 Headphone 
AudioAudioOtherOther
Shure SRH840 Kingston HyperX Cloud Stereo Headset with Micro... ASUS U3S6 Expansion Card Samsung CLP-300 Colour Laser Printer 
OtherOtherOtherOther
HP OfficeJet 5510 All in one Printer 3.5" Rosewill All in one card reader + 3 USB po... Elephant USB 2.0 Sim Card & Memory Card Reader SD/SDHC cards 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Celeron D 340J @ 3.23 GHz MachSpeed Matrix P4M800 Asus A9250 128MB AGP 8X 2 x 1GB Patriot DDR400 Memory 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOptical DriveCooling
320GB Seagate 7200RPM HDD LG 16X DVD Rewriter LG 52X CD Rewriter Masscool CPU HSF 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows XP + Windows 7 55" SONY BRAVIA EX710 Series LED HDTV Logitech's (White) Included 400W 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Power Up Blue 2526 Quantum Series ATX Mid-Tower Verbatim's (up to 2000 dpi with blue light) a thin one (got it for free) onboard 
AudioOther
cheap 5.1 sound card 3.5" Japanese brand name card reader + floppy d... 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Celeron M 370 C0 @ 2GHz (oc'ed) Dell's B120 (Chipset: Intel i915GMS/i910GML) Intel Graphics Media Accelerator 900 2 X 1GB OCZ PC2 5300 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
40GB 5400RPM / Toshiba MK4032GAX Combo Drive: 24x/10x/24x CD-RW and 8x DVD-ROM Dell Inspiron B120 WinXP SP3 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
14.1" WXGA TFT Display with 1280 x 800 resolution Dell Inspiron B120 Dell Inspiron B120 Dell Inspiron B120 
MouseAudioOtherOther
Microsoft Explorer Mini Mouse with BlueTrack Te... SigmaTel Sound Card Dell Wireless 1390 WLAN ExpressCard/34 802.11b/g 56Kbps modem and 10/100 Mbps Integrated Network... 
Other
Ports: 3x USB 2.0, VGA out, 1x ExpressCard/54 (... 
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post #5280 of 6481
Quote:
Originally Posted by Petrol View Post

you don't have much to lose! don't forget that in a pinch, toothpaste can double as TIM smile.gif

Mayonnaise actually works better. wink.gif

But toothpaste isn't too bad either, as long as you don't use chocolate. tongue.gif
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