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Frozen CPU Pelter Picture

post #1 of 19
Thread Starter 
http://www.frozencpu.com/exp-04.html


Does this have a cold plate in it, or will I need to buy a cold plate seprately. Secondly, I dont think this comes with the psu correct? where would I go about getting that specific wattage psu for a pelter, and how hard is it to wire and such?
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post #2 of 19
No. It is just the peltier. You will need something to put in between the CPU and it.
    
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post #3 of 19
If you have a stacker case there's a special wire connector to wire up two PSU's. Or if you dont have that, You need two wires and you stick one end of the two wires into two of the 24 pin connectors for the psu that goes to your mobo *not sure which* and then you take the other ends of the wire and stick them into the other powersupply. When you press your on button, The current should jump over to the other power supply aswell turning it on. If you need something cheap with around 34-36 amps I suggest looking at a fortron. Theres a faq on connecting the PSU's somewhere
    
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post #4 of 19
Thread Starter 
I already have a waterblock, so I would be putting my waterblock ontop of that, ontop of a coldplate, ontop of my cpu? Is this correct?


I also have seen small psu's designed just for pelters.
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post #5 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chopes
I already have a waterblock, so I would be putting my waterblock ontop of that, ontop of a coldplate, ontop of my cpu? Is this correct?


I also have seen small psu's designed just for pelters.
Well that peltier you posted has a massive draw! Somewhere around 36 amps I doubt a small psu will be able to handle that, I assume those are just for the smaller pelts. .. Wait A sec I'm trying to find that guide on sticking together two psu's





EDIT: Heres how you can jump one, Doesn't make it start with your other psu though

http://www.overclock.net/faqs/15751-...-supplies.html

I cant seem to find that faq..I read it recently





EDIT:::

http://www.overclock.net/faqs/19851-...-together.html




FOUND IT!
    
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post #6 of 19
That TEC requires 24volts You would have to run the two PSUs in series. But i think you would be better off buying an external meanwell.

http://www.trcelectronics.com/Meanwell/sp-500-24.shtml will be cheaper than the suggested 2 Meanwell S-320-12 in series. But still not cheap.
You can if you want buy two not so expensive PC psus and run the 12volt rail in series to get 24v. Maybe two antec neo 350hes. They actually have 45amps on the 12 volt rails.
    
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post #7 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chopes
I already have a waterblock, so I would be putting my waterblock ontop of that, ontop of a coldplate, ontop of my cpu? Is this correct?


I also have seen small psu's designed just for pelters.
With thermal paste in-between you would go. cpu. coldplate, TEC waterblock.
This all has to be clamped down very tight to make it work properly. When you think it is tight then you give it another turn. As long as the backing plate can take it then you should be fine. If you see the mobo bending too much then the backing plate can't take it. When I was using a TEC I had a steel backing plate running over the top of the insulation and worked fine. The plastic ones should be OK depending on if they can take the cold as plastic can go brittle when cold. Snap!! I also used one of these to run the extra power supply needed.
http://www.pccasegear.com.au/prod2100.htm
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post #8 of 19
A computer PSU will not be able to handle the load from a TEC like that, you need something industrial. You can usually find some cheap PSUs on eBay, I bought a 24V PSU for a 172W TEC a while ago for less than $50!

Also how do you plan to cool that sucker? A 437W TEC will produce around 600W of heat itself, add the heat of a processor let's say 100W to be conservative and that's a lot of heat your radiator has to remove...
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post #9 of 19
Ok a few things to clear up here...

The order is like this:

WATERBLOCK
HOTSIDE
COLDSIDE
CPU

You'll need to use arctic ceramique for this because the as5 doesnt like negative temperatures. You can mix a little as5 into the ceramique though if you want.

You only need ONE meanwell PSU. Meanwell PSU's are 24V standard. Grab one meanwell PSU and use it for the pelt only.

With your current setup of a heatercore and the copper pipe contraption, you should be able to handle the heat from the pelt but I dont know if you're going to want your videocard cooled with the pelt water as its going to be pretty hot when it flows out of the apogee. If you want to cool the videocard with the same water then the best loops would flow like this:

PUMP > CPU > HEATERCORE > GPU > COPPER PIPE > RES > PUMP

Honestly though, I'd replace the copper pipe with another heatercore and use 4 100CFM fans on each heatercore.

This will allow for a very good cooling setup, but it will be pretty expensive to get all the parts needed! You also need to condensation proof your board for that pelt which means insulating the board and using dielectric grease in the socket. You wont need to insulate the tubes, which is a bonus.

If I were you I'd just grab a dominator pro waterblock off ebay with a meanwell PSU because the dominator pro uses the same peltier you showed and it will work great plus its all done for you.
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post #10 of 19
Sorry bigval. But meanwell is a medical power supply manufacturer. With 100s of PSUs. Not all of them are 24v. Not even most of them. The one i listed is 24volts. The ones most commonly found on PC cooling sites are the S-320-12 which basically means it is a 320 watt 12volt PSU. they usually recomend you run them in series to get 24 volts. I think it would be better to just use a 24 volt psu.
    
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