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[Official] Scythe GentleTyphoon club - Page 266

post #2651 of 3068
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dyaems View Post

Is the dye similar to Rit-dye?

No, I do not believe so. The iDye that fast_fate used appears to be specifically made for polyester. I have tried dyeing my 6ZPs with Rit, but to no avail:

Created with GIMP

Even though other people have had success dyeing plastic using Rit (if interested, look here, here, and here), it seems that Rit is designed primarily for natural fibers as opposed to synthetic. Its failure to dye the GTs may be attributed to the qualities of the plastic that Nidec uses to manufacturer its fans or an incorrect ratio of water to Rit used in my dyeing process (1½ bottles of Rit to ~0.75 quarts of tap water kept at 160 - 180 °F for an hour). Either way, the use of a dye carrier as lowfat recommended is more than likely the key factor in producing quality results with whatever dye you were to use.
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post #2652 of 3068
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nguruthos7 View Post

No, I do not believe so. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
The iDye that fast_fate used appears to be specifically made for polyester. I have tried dyeing my 6ZPs with Rit, but to no avail:

Created with GIMP

Even though other people have had success dyeing plastic using Rit (if interested, look here, here, and here), it seems that Rit is designed primarily for natural fibers as opposed to synthetic. Its failure to dye the GTs may be attributed to the qualities of the plastic that Nidec uses to manufacturer its fans or an incorrect ratio of water to Rit used in my dyeing process (1½ bottles of Rit to ~0.75 quarts of tap water kept at 160 - 180 °F for an hour). Either way, the use of a dye carrier as lowfat recommended is more than likely the key factor in producing quality results with whatever dye you were to use.

thanks. Maybe I'll just go back to spray paint or something when the time comes:D
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post #2653 of 3068
I have seen similar results before with black RIT dye in two other different communities (replica props, keyboards) with several types of plastic. Lots of people have tried and nobody has got anything but brown when dyeing plastic with "black" RIT dye.
I have had much better luck with a "permanent" marker on plastics. With a marker the ink is light and does not build much of a layer on top but it is difficult to not get streaks because the next stroke might dissolve the previous where they overlap.

According to Nidec's datasheet, the plastic used is SPS - Syndiotactic Polystyrene. From what I have found on the web, it is stronger and more resistant against heat and chemicals than regular polystyrene or polystyrene blends. I know from my own tests that ordinary polystyrene (blends) warps quite easily in a hot dye bath.
SPS was invented at another Japanese company: Idemitsu Kosan, so I find it probable that they would be Nidec's supplier. According to data on Idemitsu's web site, the plastic is somewhat receptive to various solvents but not to alcohol, salt or acid. This means that you should get a better result the more strong solvents there are in the paint or ink. Fabric dyes often rely on salts or acids to work. Water-based paint would be right out.
Edited by Findecanor - 5/14/15 at 3:55pm
post #2654 of 3068
Quote:
Originally Posted by Findecanor View Post

I have seen similar results before with black RIT dye in two other different communities (replica props, keyboards) with several types of plastic. Lots of people have tried and nobody has got anything but brown when dyeing plastic with "black" RIT dye.
I have had much better luck with a "permanent" marker on plastics. With a marker the ink is light and does not build much of a layer on top but it is difficult to not get streaks because the next stroke might dissolve the previous where they overlap.

According to Nidec's datasheet, the plastic used is SPS - Syndiotactic Polystyrene. From what I have found on the web, it is stronger and more resistant against heat and chemicals than regular polystyrene or polystyrene blends. I know from my own tests that ordinary polystyrene (blends) warps quite easily in a hot dye bath.
SPS was invented at another Japanese company: Idemitsu Kosan, so I find it probable that they would be Nidec's supplier. According to data on Idemitsu's web site, the plastic is somewhat receptive to various solvents but not to alcohol, salt or acid. This means that you should get a better result the more strong solvents there are in the paint or ink. Fabric dyes often rely on salts or acids to work. Water-based paint would be right out.

Interesting! Thanks for the information +rep
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post #2655 of 3068
From the data sheets it shows that organic solvent based dyes is your best bet, or though I am not sure if there is such a dye exist.
Edited by WHIMington - 5/17/15 at 5:51pm
post #2656 of 3068
Quote:
Originally Posted by Findecanor View Post

I have seen similar results before with black RIT dye in two other different communities (replica props, keyboards) with several types of plastic. Lots of people have tried and nobody has got anything but brown when dyeing plastic with "black" RIT dye.
I have had much better luck with a "permanent" marker on plastics. With a marker the ink is light and does not build much of a layer on top but it is difficult to not get streaks because the next stroke might dissolve the previous where they overlap.

According to Nidec's datasheet, the plastic used is SPS - Syndiotactic Polystyrene. From what I have found on the web, it is stronger and more resistant against heat and chemicals than regular polystyrene or polystyrene blends. I know from my own tests that ordinary polystyrene (blends) warps quite easily in a hot dye bath.
SPS was invented at another Japanese company: Idemitsu Kosan, so I find it probable that they would be Nidec's supplier. According to data on Idemitsu's web site, the plastic is somewhat receptive to various solvents but not to alcohol, salt or acid. This means that you should get a better result the more strong solvents there are in the paint or ink. Fabric dyes often rely on salts or acids to work. Water-based paint would be right out.

That makes perfect sense to me. Had very good results with thinner based paint (1:1 proportion of paint to thinner) giving a uniform and very thin cover to the blades and frame using an airbrush. A lot thinner and smoother that plastic dip. The grey frame black blade is thinner based paint. The white frame black blade is plastic paint.

2458262
2458263
post #2657 of 3068
still happy with my GTs biggrin.gif


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post #2658 of 3068
Quote:
Originally Posted by Findecanor View Post

I have had much better luck with a "permanent" marker on plastics...the plastic is somewhat receptive to various solvents...

That is because the main components of permanent markers are a solvent/carrier (i.e. an alcohol or "old-school" marker's toulene and xylene) and water-insoluble ink/pigment –Rit is water-soluble and is part acid dye ("receptive to various solvents but not to alcohol, salt or acid...").

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gabrielzm View Post

That makes perfect sense to me. Had very good results with thinner based paint (1:1 proportion of paint to thinner) giving a uniform and very thin cover to the blades and frame using an airbrush.

Same as before. Solvents are a key component of paint thinners, some of which can also be found in permanent markers, specifically toulene and xylene; You have your colorant in the paint, the carrier in the solvent, and binding polymer in the airbrush paint's resin or in the acrylic if you are using acrylic paint. NTIM, but there are also polymers (resins) in permanent markers, although I do not know their names.

Quote:
Originally Posted by WHIMington View Post

From the data sheets it shows that organic solvent based dyes is your best bet, or though I am not sure if there is such a dye exist.

I don't know if such a dye does exist but two products would solve for this when used together: 1) a solvent/disperse dye and 2) a (organic) carrier. This brings me back to what I said before, "the use of a dye carrier... is more than likely the key factor in producing quality results".

Edit: Here is the property table for XAREC SPS, the plastic that we presume GTs are made of and that Findecanor first pointed out.
Edited by Nguruthos7 - 5/20/15 at 12:43am
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post #2659 of 3068
Did I hear right? Mayhems selling GTs after summer?
post #2660 of 3068
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dazmode View Post

No, it is not correct. We will make PWM version as well. It will be announced as time is due for that. I cannot provide any further details at this time.

Sign me up for 5 or more PWMs when they are to be produced! Thanks for helping the community have access to customized GTs. thumb.gif
    
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