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Painting Acetal Pump Top - Tips?

post #1 of 6
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I plan on purchasing a top for my MCP655, the one below or the Bitspower one.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=24823

Now, for what I'm trying to do, I'd actually like the block to be white, similar to this model.

http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/shop/pu...te-acetal.html

I've never really painted before, so I'm just wondering if this surface would be easy to paint white? I want the finish to be similar to the link above and white tubing (that smooth look). Will that be attainable painting it myself? I assume I'll need to do some sanding, etc., so if someone could let me know the best way to get the finish I'm looking for, I'd appreciate it.

Thanks
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THE RiG
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post #2 of 6
Delrin (Polyoxymethylene, Acetal & any of a thousand different names) plastic, is a difficult plastic to paint. Well not difficult to paint, difficult to keep paint on. It is designed to be stain resistant, and therefore dosen't like to "hold" paint. This plastic has been used for quite some time in the model train industry, due to its strenght and flexability.

Let me state that there are about 50 grades of "Acetal Plastic Resin", so YMMV.

There have been successes in getting paint to hold to this plastic. It is not that dissimilar in adhesision properties to many of the plastics used in the automotive industry.

After a scuffing with fine sandpaper to create fine scratches in the plastic to help develop a mechanical bond, the use of a clear "flexible plastic adhesion promoter" primer (available in areosol cans at most automotive stores), is used to prime the Delrin, before the application of a flexible paint (ie Krylon paint for plastics).

There is a very definate "recoat" window, to paint the first "tack" coat of paint over the adhesion promoter, so follow the direction on the can carefully. The adhesion promoter should never be sanded. If you sand the white paint between coats, make sure you do not sand through the adhesion promoter, or you may see paint failure down the road.
Edited by xandypx - 8/23/10 at 11:04am
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post #3 of 6
Good explanation, you are absolutely right. Proper use of specialized products are key for these type materials.

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post #4 of 6
One thing I would watch out for is that you either don't paint or sand down all the contact points on the block. Once painted, the thickness of the paint could be enough to prevent your block from sealing properly, in which case you'll get leaks in your loop!
post #5 of 6
Quote:
One thing I would watch out for is that you either don't paint or sand down all the contact points on the block. Once painted, the thickness of the paint could be enough to prevent your block from sealing properly, in which case you'll get leaks in your loop!

What im assuming would be done is masking off the rear piece that the pump/o-ring attaches to. Also filling the in/out ports. Besides, the back will be covered/threaded on by the dress-kit, so that doesnt even have to be painted. Id make sure that every hole and opening is sealed so no paint may be introduced to the innards where water flows.
Do your research, or if you have the money buy a used acetal top (maybe not a 655) to practice different methods on
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Mini worker
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Blaue Liebe
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post #6 of 6
Be sure to plug your connection holes too. Get paint in there and you'll be cursing the universe's very existance.
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