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air vs liquid in higher ambient temps. - Page 3

post #21 of 29
yeah, the base of my bt wasn't exactly flat either, but I got 99% of it out by lapping it
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post #22 of 29
Thread Starter 
On that topic, I am going to go get my BT this weekend probably, I have never lapped before and all I've got around the house is a dremel. I don't have any precision measurement tools (to check for flatness). Is it ok to just do it visually or would I be better off just leaving well enough alone? Also, a good lapping FAQ/tutorial would rock.
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post #23 of 29
You need at least 1000 grit sand paper, and a piece of glass 12inch square, put your sand paper on the glass, and take your time and move in a figure 8 paturn, use a marker and put an X on the bottom of the heat sink. Once you make the mark disapear then your lapped.
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post #24 of 29
Thread Starter 
Sweet, that sounds easy and painless enough, should i repolish the sink after I lap it?
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post #25 of 29
see...i've lapped plenty of things....i go to autozone...get assorted high grit sandpaper....it contains 220, 400, 800, and 1000 grits. I also buy 2000 grit and i have a big tube of rubbing compound (but toothpaste works well too).

The best way to do this is wet sanding. Get yourself a piece of glass smaller than the length of the sandpaper. Wrap the sandpaper (started with your smallest grit count) around the glass and tape it VERY WELL(there is no such thing as too much tape). Put about a teaspoon of water on the sandpaper, and a drop of dish detergent. You can do it in a figure eight pattern or you can do it back and forth, turning it 90 degrees every 25-30 seconds, it's really a matter of preferance, but i've found that both ways work equally well.

Do each set of sandpaper for about 5 minutes apiece, or, if you eally want to make sure uyou did it righ, 7, but try not to do it too long, as your hands/arms will get weaker and apply uneaven pressure. After each set of sand paper, make sure to wipe off the abse of the heatsink to remove any copper/silver/aluminum dust and repeat all the way up the grits. You can hand polish with the 2k grit, as it really wont alter the flatness at all, and after the 2k, use rubbing compound or toothpaste for that mirror finish, and there you have it. up to 10C lower temps with 15 USD and a bit of elbow grease.
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post #26 of 29
Hey BysOn,

What you just described goes against the laws of physics. The only way to COOL air leaving your rig, or to cool air within your heat exchanging device, is with some sort of evaporating process which removes the incoming heat and discharges it somewhere else. Although air density will affect the heat exchange process itself, the heat which has been exchanged from one body must be transferred to another body. If it ends up back into the room (ambient), then in reality that heat just gets fed back into your rig. This is why evaporation cools an object, because that heat is transferred to another medium other than the device from which it has been originally removed. Granted, the concentration of heat from your processor chip has been reduced to a safe level, but that heat has simply been dissipated throughout the room in which your rig is located. You can still make a case for the air in the room being the body in which heat has been exchanged, and on that principle alone you would be correct. But, you would never be able to cool BELOW what the room (ambient) temp. is without some sort of evaporative process.
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post #27 of 29
Thread Starter 
Thanks a million HardwaterH4ck3r; now all I have to do is find a place on Okinawa that I can get 1000+ grit sandpaper. The best I can get on base is 200 (and I'm pretty sure that would only make things worse).
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post #28 of 29
I went thru the same thing, And I though of it like this,

I'm always going to leave my computer on, so with water cooling I'd always be afraid as to when I left it on, because it could potentially leak.

Also, A lot of strange people use my computer, How am I to know they wont screw up some gasket or something and my whole computer fries?

The last point that made me stick to water cooling is, it seems easy, but setting it up and maintaining it is just way to meticulous. All the water coolers from what I've seen are pretty computer-ly inclined. I'd stick to a thermaltake big typhoon.





Just remember to lap your heatsink aswell as apply some good thermal compound to give best results with any type of cooling
    
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post #29 of 29
Thread Starter 
Well I just installed my TTBT and now my idle temp is ambient+1 (down 4C) and my LOAD temp is 37C (down 8-10C)! Can't wait 'till my zf700cu gets here
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