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TEC Waterblock with heatpipes? - Page 2

post #11 of 23
I'm thinking this might not work due to the properties of a heatpipe. The liquid evaps at a very low temp and recondenses only a few degrees less. Putting a tec on heatpipes would more than likely freeze the liquid in the pipes.
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post #12 of 23
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mastacator
Something like this?
Exactly what I'm thinking.

Quote:
Originally Posted by busa
I'm thinking this might not work due to the properties of a heatpipe. The liquid evaps at a very low temp and recondenses only a few degrees less. Putting a tec on heatpipes would more than likely freeze the liquid in the pipes.
That's what I'm worrying about. I've heard people say it's simply water and others say it's refrigerant (same stuff in phase change coolers/AC units). If it's refrigerant, than it "boils" at between -20C and -50. However, if it is water, than the subzero properties of a pelt would be completely useless in this configuration.
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post #13 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pinhead-227
Exactly what I'm thinking.
Yeah, with that type of setup you could use two 50x50mm pelts next to each other!! moving them up off the cpu die would allow you to use them like that, sort of in parallel.
That could be a heavy sink all that copper, would have to optimize the size of it. I designed that as a 2"x2" base plate, the "cold plate" is 3" above the base and is 4"x3" the water blocke is a dual inlet dual outlet at 5"x4"x3/4".


Quote:
Originally Posted by Pinhead-227
That's what I'm worrying about. I've heard people say it's simply water and others say it's refrigerant (same stuff in phase change coolers/AC units). If it's refrigerant, than it "boils" at between -20C and -50. However, if it is water, than the subzero properties of a pelt would be completely useless in this configuration.
I tend to believe the good heatpipes have a refrigerant type fluid, not just water. Could build your own heatpipe, with refrigerant from the local auto store whats that? R42 or something?
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post #14 of 23
Thread Starter 
Just to make it easier to discuss this topic, let's define some names for parts.

The bottom part that actually contacts the CPU, or the base, will be called the BASE PLATE.

The base of the actual waterblock is the COLD PLATE. It clamps the heatpipes to the cold side of the peltiers. It would have to actualy comprise of two plates, one in contact with the peltiers and one clamping the heatpipes to the peltiers. The pair of plates would then have to be clamped to the waterblock.

Optimally the connections would be covered with liquid metal, and everything is pure copper.

The heatpipes are still heat pipes and the waterblock is still a waterblock.
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post #15 of 23
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tuchan
That just might work but will the heat pipes transfer the cold down towards the cpu or do they only run in one direction.......
I just re-read through and found a problem... Cold isn't transfered. Technically, cold doesn't exist. Cold by definition is the abcense of heat and is relative to something else (in this case, if something "feels cold" that means it's temperature is lower than your body temperature). So the "cold" wouldn't be transfered down to the CPU, the heat is transfered to the coldplate. So the heat is still moving in the same direction, and because of this, the only problem with the heatpipes is the temperature difference, whether they'll work in subzero conditions or not.

The easiest way to test this is to stick a PC in a deep-freeze or outside when it's below 0C out. If the CPU temperature continues to drop to below freezing (or close to whatever temperature it is outside) than the heatpipe cooler will work with the peltiers.

However, if whatever liquid that is in the heatpipes does freeze, than the heatpipes will no longer efficiently transfer the heat to the fins, and the fins will just get colder and colder while the CPU heats up.
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post #16 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pinhead-227
I just re-read through and found a problem... Cold isn't transfered. Technically, cold doesn't exist. Cold by definition is the abcense of heat and is relative to something else (in this case, if something "feels cold" that means it's temperature is lower than your body temperature). So the "cold" wouldn't be transfered down to the CPU, the heat is transfered to the coldplate. So the heat is still moving in the same direction, and because of this, the only problem with the heatpipes is the temperature difference, whether they'll work in subzero conditions or not.

The easiest way to test this is to stick a PC in a deep-freeze or outside when it's below 0C out. If the CPU temperature continues to drop to below freezing (or close to whatever temperature it is outside) than the heatpipe cooler will work with the peltiers.

However, if whatever liquid that is in the heatpipes does freeze, than the heatpipes will no longer efficiently transfer the heat to the fins, and the fins will just get colder and colder while the CPU heats up.
hmm, yeah, those are some bad thoughts.
Well there is always the possibility!
Need some experimenting to take place to know for sure I guess.
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post #17 of 23
Hey Pinhead, on a side note about pelts. What PSU are you powering your monster pelt with? I think you've said before you are putting about 13-14v to it. are you doing that with a 12v psu or 24v? Is it possible to regulate the voltage to it, like with a potentiometer?
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post #18 of 23
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mastacator
Hey Pinhead, on a side note about pelts. What PSU are you powering your monster pelt with? I think you've said before you are putting about 13-14v to it. are you doing that with a 12v psu or 24v? Is it possible to regulate the voltage to it, like with a potentiometer?
I "built" a 13.3v PSU using 3 PC power supplies. It's pretty simple (all you have to do is "float" the grounds and run the three PSU's 5v rails in series). It takes a little experimenting to make them all work together, though, but once you get it built you can source as much current as the weakest PSU can handle. In other words, if you've got 3 PSU's that can handle 25 amps on their 5 volt rails, than you can have a 25a, 13.5v (up to 18v if you want) PSU. Here's a link:

http://cbradioforum.com/messageview....&enterthread=y
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post #19 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pinhead-227
I "built" a 13.3v PSU using 3 PC power supplies. It's pretty simple (all you have to do is "float" the grounds and run the three PSU's 5v rails in series). It takes a little experimenting to make them all work together, though, but once you get it built you can source as much current as the weakest PSU can handle. In other words, if you've got 3 PSU's that can handle 25 amps on their 5 volt rails, than you can have a 25a, 13.5v (up to 18v if you want) PSU. Here's a link:

http://cbradioforum.com/messageview....&enterthread=y
Stellar! That is exactly what I needed! I knew you could series them together.
Have you looked into some sort of voltage controller to tune the voltage going to it? Would be handy also for controlling the temp of the pelt, cranked for load, lowered for idle.
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post #20 of 23
Pinhead, do you run your system 24/7?
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