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WC build log for my rig - Page 4

post #31 of 218
Is 100% pure distilled water totally no conductive then?
2011 ~ Current
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2011 ~ Current
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post #32 of 218
Quote:
Originally Posted by noxious89123
Is 100% pure distilled water totally no conductive then?
As a general rule of thumb, yes. Make sure it's put through a decent process. The distilled I bought the last time came from K-Mart. And believe it or not it said on the label, "Triple Distilled, Reverse Osmosis Filtered". For 89 cents a gallon, I couldn't go wrong. So, I got 2 gallons and tested it with a meter when I got home. Put some in a glass, put your meter on continuity (beep) mode, and stick your probes in the water. No beep means no conductivity.

Also, on a side note:

If you want to see if your current coolant is conductive, take your meter and touch one probe to your CPU block (a metal part) and the other probe to your rad. If it beeps, your coolant is conductive.
post #33 of 218
Thread Starter 
alright, well I'll just have to be looking around. I was planning on resleeving my psu over the summer bc when I did it originally I didn't really know what I was doing and it looks bad. . but I was thinking last night that I should really do it before I wc because once I have tubes full of water I probably won't want to mess around in my system as much... hmm...

well thanks for the input. I'll have to go shopping around for some water when I go out this week.
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post #34 of 218
Please keep us updated with photos if you can!

I like pictures
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post #35 of 218
Thread Starter 
yeah, will do. I've got a digital camera and I like to take pictures as I do things... the only problem is that sometimes I get caught up in what I'm doing and forget to take pics. Last week I sleeved my bro's psu and I had my camera all out, took a couple pictures in the beginning then forgot to take any more till I was done and had the sleeved psu, and sleeved fans. So I just sent him a before and after pic... he liked it. maybe I'll share a couple pics w/ u guys too just cause.


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post #36 of 218
You are going to want to sleeve before you install your WC. It made things a lot easier to deal with for me.
post #37 of 218
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tuchan
I understand on the back but where is this air coming from to go through the rad, inside the case? If so then you will be pushing warm air through the rad. Although it will probably not make too much of a difference; it does make some difference. When having the rad on the rear of the case and using the case air to go through the rad you will have to ensure for maximum cooling that you have plenty of fresh air coming into the case. If the side was left off then even better. I have been through this before and ended up leaving the side off, this was using a TEC though as it is very important to get these steps as correct as you can.

alright, just to clarify. the heater core will be on the outside of my case mounted ont he back using a swiftech radbox ver.2
http://www.swiftnets.com/products/MCB-120-R2.asp

so, since the rear of my case has the raised fan grills I'm going to use standoffs inbetween the rear of the case and the radbox. Then the radbox will be connected to the top fan, which will be connected to the shroud, and then the heater core. So, if the standoffs are about 1/2" and the radbox itself is about 1" and so is the fan, and the shround 3/4" the heater core will be mounted about 3 1/4" off the rear of the case.

so most of the air will be coming from outside the case, it is entirely possible that some air will be drawn from inside the case, but the majority of the air going through the heater core will be external and thus cooler.

I hope this clears things up... and it works. The radbox was designed to work with traditional radiators, single double or tripple. I don't know how heavy they are, but if the heater core is much heavier it may not work.
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post #38 of 218
I have an entirely internal water cooling setup with a dual radiator (not nearly as big as that heatercore) and I still get radical temps, even with a prescott. I think you will be happy with your temps, for sure.

I dont know if you have gotten your CPU block yet, but I have a TDX and I love it. I really like how it looks and it performs great. Though, the Apogee is also an excellent block. Frankly, I dont think the difference between the two is going to be more than 1C as you have that massive radiator. So just go with whats cheapest or what seems to best fit your rig.
    
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post #39 of 218
Thread Starter 
yeah, I went w/ an apogee block from jab-tech. Transonic has a tdx used, but I think someone else might be getting it from him and he never got back to me. so when buying new the apogee was cheaper.
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post #40 of 218
I have an Apogee coming for one of my P4 rigs. Out of all the blocks out there, this one had the best reviews (EDIT: Excluding the storm of course). I'm sure we'll be more than happy!
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